THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 

PRESENTED  BY 

PROF. CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


YUURS  FRATERNALLY, 


R.  N. 


t 


PARIS  EXPOSITION, 


OB 


VIEWING  ENGLAND,  FRANCE  AND  IRELAND. 


BY 


E.  N.  WILLCOX. 

AUTHOR  OF  "REMINISCENCES  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIFE," 

"ESSAYS  AND  LECTURES,"  "PROOF  OF  A 

CONTINUED  LIFE,"  ETC. 

AVERT,  OHIO. 


WILLCOX  PEINT. 
1900. 


TO 

MY  WIPE,  ELIZABETH  R.  WILLCOX,  of  A  very,  Ohio, 

who  has  made  it   possible  for  us  to 

visit  the  old  world;  this 

little  volume  is 

DEDICATED. 


I  have  no  excuse  for  publishing  and  launching  this 
work  upon  an  indulgent  public.  I  went  to  the 
World's  Exposition  at  Paris  to  see  something,  and 
when  I  saw  there  were  so  few  of  the  Americans  or 
English  speaking  people  at  this,  the  greatest  show  the 
world  has  ever  seen,  I  could  not  refrain  from  noting 
down  what  I  believe  would  interest  the  American  peo- 
ple; and  since  my  return  have  put  those  notes  into 
type  and  stamped  them  in  this  little  book,  so  that  my 
friends  at  home  may  have  all  the  benefits  which  we 
enjoyed  in  England  and  on  the  Continent. 

We  have  given  more  history,  ancient  and  modern, 
than  is  usually  given  in  works  of  travels,  but  we  in- 
troduced it  because  we  were  satisfied  the  work  would 
be  incomplete  without  these  facts.  We  have  not  given 
so  much  as  to  make  it  tiresome,  but  just  enough  to 
give  the  reader  a  fair  understanding  of  the  country 
and  people  which  we  are  describing. 

Our  thoughts  have  run  rather  to  the  ancient  than 
to  the  modern,  and  therefore  olden  things  have  been 
noted,  when  those  more  modern  have  been  passed 
over  with  less  notice. 


M310060 


-III- 

Our  chidings  of  the  different  countries  which  we 
visited  are  only  friendly  criticism  on  their  manners 
nnrl  customs,  and  sometimes  laws.  We  have  no  ill 
Tellings  against  any  of  their  citizens;  rather  to  the 
contrary,  we  have  a  kindly  feeling  towards  all  with 
whom  we  had  intercourse,  and  shall  be  glad  to  meet 
them  agajn  and  renew  our  acquaintance. 

We  gathered  our  information  from  every  source 
from  which  we  thought  would  be  reliable,  and  have 
made  our  descriptions  as  plain  and  practical  as  possi- 
ble. We  mingled  with  the  laboring  class  as  often  and 
freely  as  possible  with  a  view  of  learning  their 
condition,  but  no  doubt  failed  sometimes  in  arriving 
at  their  true  situation;  and  although  England  is  a 
rich  country  and  has  many  places  which  it  is  pleasing 
to  visit,  we  must  say  with  all  sincerity  give  us  free 
America  with  her  republican  form  of  government  to 
live  under,  and  we  will  add,  to  die  and  be  buried  in. 

We  have  aimed  to  make  the  historical  part  as  defi- 
nite as  possible  and  in  the  main  we  believe  it  to  be 
correct. 

The  half  tones  are  the  best  we  could  obtain,  and 
hope  they  will  please  all  who  may  have  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  them.  We  might  add  more  but  deem  this 
sufficient.  THE  AUTHOR. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   I.-P.-9-15. 

Our  Trip  to  the  Exposition  of  1900.     The   Catskill 
Mountains.     West  Point. 

CHAPTER   II.-P.-1 5-21. 

Preparing  the  Steamer.     On  Shipboard.     Games  on 
Shipboard. 

CHAPTER    I1I.-P.-21-26. 

Sunday  on  Shipboard.    A  Tale  of  Woe.     Preparing 
for  an  Entertainment. 

CHAPTER    IV.-P.-26-29. 

The  Entertainment.     The  Holy  Land.     Last  Hours 
on  Board. 

CHAPTER  v.-p.- 29-33. 
Southampton.     The  Docks. 

CHAPTER  vi.-p.-3 3-3 8. 

From  Havre  to  Paris.     Hack  Drivers  in  Paris.     The 
Parks  of  Paris. 

CHAPTER    VII.-P.-38-45. 

The    Streets    of   Paris.     Streets    and    Sidewalks. 
Grand  Entrance.     Old  Paris. 

CHAPTER  VIII.-P. -45-52. 

History  of  France.     The  Embellishment   of  Paris. 
Famine  in  Paris.  4 


V. 
CHAPTER    IX.-P.-52-59. 

Sight  Seeing  with  a  Guide.     Statuary  of  the  Mada- 
line.     A  Visit  to  the  Louvre.     Jewish  Antiquities. 

CHAPTER   X.-P.-59-65. 

The  Louvre   Picture  Galleries.     The   Art   Gallery. 
St.  Bartholomew's  Day.     City  of  the  Dead. 

CHAPTER   XI.-P.-65-75. 

The  Exposition  Buildings.     Exhibition  Buildings. 
Palaces  of  Different  Nations. 

CHAPTER    XII.-P.-75-83. 

The  Eiffel  Tower.  The  Tomb  of  Napoleon.^  The  Ho- 
tel Des  Invalides.     The  Palais  Royal.     The  Galleries. 

CHAPTER  XIII.-P.-83-87. 

The  Notre  Dame.     The  Morgue.     The  Pantheon. 

CHAPTER  XIV.-P.-87-92. 

The  Versailles.     The   Grand    Trianon.     Where  the 
Pope  was  Confined. 

CHAPTER  XV.-P.-92-98. 

Sunday  in  Paris.     Religion  of  the   French.     What 
we  saw  in  Paris.     The  Paris  Market. 

CHAPTER  XVI.-P.-98-107. 

A  Living  in  Paris.     Customs  of  Paris.     The  Stock 
of  France.    Visit  to  London.     Bank  of  England. 

CHAPTER  XVII.-P.-107-117. 

Tower  of  London.     Whitehall.     Kings   and  Queens 
of  England.     History.     Chamber  of  Horrors. 

CHAPTER  XVIII.-P.-117-122. 

London's  Great  Markets.     The  Streets  of  London. 

CHAPTER  XIX  .-P.-122-134. 

The  Houses    of  Parliament.      Westminster  Hall. 


VI. 

London  Bridge.     Buckingham  Palace..;  The   Streets 
of  London.     Newgate  Prison. 

CHAPTER  xx.-p. -134-1 47. 

Westminster  Abbey.  Edinburgh  Castle.  Arc  de 
Triomphe.  Parliament  Hall.  Court  House  and  Pris- 
on. Farewell  to  Edinburgh. 

CHAPTER  XXI.-P.-147-152. 

Glasgow,  Scotland.     Shoddy  Material. 

CHAPTER  XXII.-P.-152-164. 

For  Dublin,  Ireland.  Irish  History.  Homes  in 
Ireland.  Trinity  College.  Grand  Palais.  Madeleine. 
Royal  Exchange.  Liverpool,  England. 

CHAPTER  XXIII.-P.-164-170. 

Sunday  in  London.  Attending  Church  in  London. 
Lecture  by  Mrs.  Roberts.  A  ride  through  England. 

CHAPTER  XXIV.-P.-180-176. 

The  English  People.  Advice.  The  City  of  South- 
ampton. A  Nation  of  Beer  Drinkers. 

CHAPTER  XXV.-P.-176-185. 

Morals  of  the  People.  English  and  French  Laws. 
Notre  Dame.  Returning  Trip.  The  Picnic. 

CHAPTER  XXVI.-P.-185-190. 

Fourth  of  July.  Niagara  Falls.  Returning  from 
the  Falls. 

CHAPTER  XXVII.-P.-190-197. 

Lecture  I.     Paris  Exposition. 

CHAPTER  XXVIII.-P.-197-207. 

Lecture  II.     Paris  Exposition. 


VII. 
HALF   TOJJKS. 


Photograph  of  Author. 

PAGE.    0. 

Pho. 

of  Daughter. 

p. 

8. 

Pho. 

of  Bank  of  England. 

p. 

105. 

Pho. 

of  London  Tower. 

p. 

106. 

Pho. 

of  House  of  Parliament. 

p. 

123. 

Pho. 

of  London  Bridge. 

p. 

124. 

Pho. 

of  Arc  rle  Triomphe. 

p. 

141. 

Pho. 

of  Exposition  Arch. 

p. 

142. 

Pho. 

of  Grand  Palais. 

p. 

159. 

Pho. 

of  La  Madeline. 

p. 

160. 

Pho. 

of  Royal  Exchange. 

p. 

161. 

Pho. 

of  Westminster  Abbey. 

p. 

162. 

Pho. 

of  Notre  Dame. 

p. 

179. 

Pho. 

Empress  Josephine. 

p. 

180. 

LOVINGLY  YOURS, 


MARTHA 


CHAPTER  I. 

OUR    TRIP    TO   THE    EXPOSITION    OF    1900. 

On  May  7th.  1900  my  daughter  Martha  and  self 
left  home  at  8  o'clock  A.M.  to  visit  the  exposition  at 
Paris,  France.  We  took  the  8  02  standard  morning 
train  for  Buffalo,  New  York.  In  taking  the  cars  at 
A  very,  we  found  them  pretty  well  filled,  just  barely 
finding  room  to  sit  down,  but  after  a  pleasant  ride  of 
two  and  a  quarter  hours  we  arrived  at  the  city  of 
Cleveland  where  about  four-fifths  of  the  passengers 
disembarked  and  were  soon  spread  over  the  city  at- 
tending to  their  various  duties.  But  at  this  point  we 
took  on  quite  a  number  for  the  eastern  cities.  Some 
going  up  into  the  eastern  part  of  the  State  of  Maine. 

We  might  say  many  things  about  our  fellow  pas- 
sengers, some  of  which  might  be  interesting  to  our 
readers,  but  will  only  name  one  or  two.  There  seem- 
ed to  have  been  quite  a  youthful  couple,  and  between 
them  they  had  what  would  seem  their  first  born,  a 
pretty  but  willful  little  lady  of  about  two  summers. 
Of  course  the  child  was  uneasy  and  fretful,  and  the 
papa  was  tending  her  as  best  he  could,  but  it  would 


10 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


not  be  pleased  until  the  father  found  a  small  stone  for 
her,  when  no  sooner  had  she  obtained  the  pebble  than 
she  placed  it  in  her  mouth  and  began  to  swallow  it, 
and  it  was  with  considerable  difficulty  that  the  stone 
was  extracted  from  her  mouth,  and  baby-like  as  soon 
as  she  was  out  of  danger  she  cried  for  another,  but 
one  experience  was  enough  for  the  father  who  said 
he  would  rather  she  should  cry  than  choke. 

The  wheat  crop  is  looking  badly.  Hundreds  of 
acres  had  been  resown  to  oats,  while  some  was  being 
replowed  for  corn  and  potatoes.  We  judge  that  at 
least  four-fifth  of  the  entire  area  of  wheat  was  being 
put  into  some  other  crop.  Much  of  the  new  seeding 
was  looking  badly,  and  from  the  present  indications 
we  predict  a  light  crop  of  hay  on  most  of  the  new  and 
many  of  the  old  meadows. 

All  the  peach  orchards  we  saw  from  A  very  to  New 
York  promise  an  abundant  crop  of  peaches,  also 
plums  and  cherries  are  promising  good  results,  but 
apples  and  pears  we  could  not  risk  an  opinion. 

There  were  no  one  on  the  train  who  were  going  to 
the  exposition  until  we  arrived  at  Buffalo,  but  here 
we  took  on  about  half  a  dozen.  Some  from  Kansas, 
and  some  from  other  points  of  the  compass,  but  only 
one  who  were  going  on  the  same  boat  with  us,  and  he 
was  from  LosAngles,  California. 

We  had  a  pleasant  trip  through  the  entire  distance, 
save  the  dust  that  is  always  to  be  dreaded. 

From  Buffalo  we  took  the  West  Shore.  We  had 
never  traveled  over  that  road  before  and  were  really 
surprised  at  the  scenery  through  which  this  road  has 
been  laid.  The  first  half  of  the  trip  being  ran  in  the 


THE    CATSKILL    MOUNTAINS. 

night  wo  are  unable  to  give  any  definite  Description, 
bat  the  latter  half,  from  the  vicinity  of  Albany,  we 
must  say  there  is  some  of  as  fine  scenery  as  we  have 
seen  in  any  country.  After  passing  through  Raven- 
na and  while  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Catskills,  we 
will  say  that  we  doubt  our  power  of  giving  a  pen 
picture  such  as  would  be  doing  the  scenery  justice. 

In  this  section  the  surface  is  very  broken,  even  that 
which  would  be  looked  upon  as  their  land  for  farm- 
ing has  at  one  time  been  badly  mutilated.  It  seems 
to  have  been  thrown  into  mounds;  some  larger  and 
some  smaller.  The  hand  of  man  could  not  have  done 
it  in  a  much  more  scientific  form  than  has  nature.  In 
some  places  those  mounds  have  been  laid  out  one  af- 
ter another  in  a  continuous  line,  being  of  an  uniform 
size  and  shape.  At  another  place  they  seem  to  be  in 
a  circle  with  the  middle  more  depressed  as  if  they  had 
at  one  time  been  used  as  a  fort  to  protect  the  build- 
ers and  users. 

In  many  cases  these  mounds  are  an  almost  perfect 
globe  ten  to  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  and  cut  in  two  in 
the  middle  and  the  flat  side  put  down  upon  the 
ground;  while  others  will  be  larger  or  smaller  with 
more  irregular  shape.  Many  of  these  mounds  are 
covered  with  a  stunted  growth  of  evergreens,  such  as 
pines,  hemlocks  and  junipers.  These  evergreens  seem 
to  be  a  native  of  this  country  but  never  grow  to  be 
very  large,  probably  twelve  inches  in  diameter  is  as 
large  as  they  ever  grow.  The  timber  here  is  used  for 
wood  and  fence  posts.  The  principal  fences  about 
here  are  made  with  stone  and  will  last  many  hun- 
dred of  years. 


12  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  Catskill  mountains  are  a  peculiar  range  of 
hills  as  we  might  call  them.  They  are  very  abrupt 
on  the  side  next  to  the  railroad  and  we  think  it  would 
be  impracticable  if  not  impossible  to  make  an  ascent, 
though  there  are  places  where  one  may  climb  with 
comparative  ease.  We  saw  many  places  along  the 
side  of  the  main  range  which  looked  as  if  there  might 
be  small  caves  or  openings  in  the  mountain.  This 
range  is  covered  with  a  growth  of  small  timber  of  va- 
rious kinds,  among  which  we  noticed  there  were  many 
evergreens  the  kinds  of  which  we  could  not  tell  being 
unacquainted  with  the  timber  in  that  section. 

From  the  Catskills  to  New  York  is  one  continuous 
scene  of  changeable  beauty.  At  one  point  for  several 
miles  the  mountain  next  to  the  road  is  quite  abrupt 
and  running  down  its  side  were  several  beautiful  cas- 
cades or  waterfalls,  some  of  them  several  yards  wide 
while  others  would  be  but  a  flat  extent  of  land  back 
of  the  face  of  this  mountain  which  fed  those  riverlets, 
and  the  residents  who  live  along  this  part  of  the 
country  were  utilizing  those  water  courses  by  run- 
ning the  water  into  pipes  and  flumes  for  various  pur- 
poses. 

The  track  of  the  West  Shore  for  a  good  part  of  the 
way  between  the  Catskills  and  New  York  is  graded 
on  the  shore  of  the  Hudson  River  but  a  few  feet 
above  the  water  level;  and  where  the  bank  is  too  ab- 
rupt to  cut  into  the  bank  and  the  depth  of  the  water 
would  allow,  the  track  has  been  built  in  the  water; 
sometimes  several  yards  from  the  bank,  and  where 
the  course  of  the  road  and  depth  of  the  water  requir- 
ed it,  the  abruptness  of  the  bank  has  been  tunneled 


WEST    POINT. 


13 


in  several  places.  West  Point  is  situated  on  this  riv- 
er about  thirty  miles  above  New  York. 

We  bad  intended  to  have  written  something  in  re- 
gard to  the  surroundings  of  West  Point,  but  as  we 
only  went  through  the  place  quite  early  in  the  morn- 
ing with  a  simple  stop  of  perhaps  thirty  seconds,  we 
were  not  able  to  gather  much  in  regard  to  it. 

The  place  proper  is  located  a  little  back  from  the 
water's  edge  and  several  feet  elevation  above  it.  The 
buildings  were  quite  numerous  and  large  enough  to 
accomodate  the  business  which  is  being  done  at  this 
point.  At  the  edge  of  the  water  we  saw  buildings  for 
the  storage  of  coal  and  other  things  needed  for  the 
prosperity  of  the  place. 

When  we  arrived  opposite  New  York  on  the  Jersey 
shore,  we  were  ferried  across  at  Weehawken  to  42d. 
street,  from  there  we  took  a  horse  car  to  pier  14th. 
North  River;  arriving  there  about  9  30  A.M.  As  we 
were  abont  24  hours  earty  for  the  Steamer,  we  con- 
concluded  to  see  something  of  the  City. 

Our  first  trip  was  up  on  Broadway.  It  having  been 
more  than  fifteen  years  since  we  had  visited  the  City 
we  could  see  that  many  changes  had  taken  place. 
Among  those  which  we  shall  notice  will  be  some  of 
those  bnildings  called  the  "sky  scrapers."  We  saw 
one  that  had  thirty-two  stories  above  the  cellar.  An- 
other having  twenty-four. 

We  walked  up  Broadway  eight  or  ten  blocks  and 
asked  our  daughter  how  all  the  people  we  saw  obtain- 
ed a  living.  She  could  not  tell  neitker  could  we. 
From  there  we  went  over  on  to  Chatham  and  the 
Bowery.  We  found  the  german-jews  all  busy  selling 


14  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

almost  everything.  Among  the  places  was  one  called 
the  Curiosity-shop,  and  it  was  a  curiosity,  for  you 
could  find  there  anything  your  mind  could  conceive. 
We  did  not  buy  an}Tthing  there,  but  if  we  could  have 
had  time  we  should  have  been  pleased  to  have  looked 
over  the  stock. 

From  there  we  went  through  Wall  Street,  and  it  is 
really  a  walled  street.  The  buildings  being  so  high 
and  the  streets  so  narrow  we  could  think  of  nothing 
but  a  street  walled  in.  We  have  never  been  in  any 
place  that  we  could  compare  it  with,  but  Havana, 
Cuba,  but  that  would  not  compare  with  the  buildings 
only  in  the  width  of  the  streets.  And  here  again  we 
were  unable  to  answer  the  question:  how  did  the  peo- 
ple make  a  living  and  build  such  massive  structures? 

But  becoming  weary  of  tramping  the  streets  and 
asking  questions  which  we  could  not  answer,  we  re- 
turned to  our  hotel  and  commenced  writing  up  this 
journey  which  we  have  continued  from  time  to  time, 
it  now  being  about  4  o'clock  P.M.  of  May  9th.  on 
board  the  Steamer  New  York. 


CHAPTER  II. 

PREPARING    THE    STEAMER. 

We  took  a  walk  down  to  the  Steamer  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  8th.  instance.  It  is  worth  the  time  and 
expense,  if  a  person  did  not  have  to  go  too  far  and  see 
what  preparation  it  takes  to  make  one  of  those  trips 
across  the  Atlantic.  Of  course  we  can  give  but  a 
meager  outline  of  what  has  to  be  done. 

First,  the  vessel  has  to  be  thoroughly  renovated 
and  cleaned  from  the  lowest  deck,  to  the  top  of  the 
smoke  stacks  or  to  the  mast  head,  as  these  vessels 
have  masts  similar  to  sailing  crafts;  upon  the  spars 
canvas  sails  are  bent  and  used  in  case  of  accident  to 
the  steam  propelling  power. 

After  the  sanitary  condition  has  been  fully  looked 
after  then  the  loading  commences.  We  are  not  pre- 
pared to  say  how  much  coal  it  takes  to  furnish  steam 
to  run  across  to  Southampton,  a  distance  of  3,200 
miles.  This  coal  is  put  aboard  from  barges  that 
come  along  side  and  is  dumped  into  the  steamer 
through  trapdoors  in  her  sides.  Next  come  the  get- 
ting on  board  the  provisions  to  feed  a  thousand  or 
more  passengers.  We  do  not  know  how  much  of  each 
kind  of  provision  it  takes  to  feed  the  passengers  and 
the  ship's  crew,  the  ship's  company  numbering  about 
three  hundred  and  fifty  persons.  It  would  take  12 

15 


16  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

tons  of  meat  for  a  return  trip  and  other  things  in 
proportion,  not  forgetting  plenty  of  water. 

Then  comes  the  personal  belongings  of  the  passen- 
gers which  amounted  to  thousands  of  pieces.  Next 
the  hundreds  of  mail  bags  that  is  about  the  last  thing 
taken  aboard.  There  is  a  system  about  everything 
that  is  done. 

We  found  very  comfortable  rooms  at  the  Fogg  Hotel 
on  Barclay  Street;  and  one  of  the  best  table  service  we 
have  found  in  any  of  our  travels.  And  all  at  what 
they  call  popular  prices.  Meals  from  twenty  to  fifty 
cents,  and  rooms  from  fifty  cents  to  one  dollar  per 
day. 

At  8  o'clock  we  presented  our  tickets  at  the  office 
on  the  pier  and  had  them  countersigned  by  the  com- 
pany's agent.  This  seems  to  be  an  extra  amount  of 
red  tape,  although  we  suppose  it  is  necessary  for  self 
protection. 

We  went  on  board  about  8  30  and  found  quite  a 
number  already  there.  Our  state  room  was  a  cosy 
little  place  with  all  the  comforts  of  a  home,  with 
plenty  of  water,  soap  and  towels.  All  the  fault  one 
could  find  would  be  that  it  was  so  tiny,  yet  large 
enough  for  what  we  needed  it  for,  to  sleep  in,  al- 
though we  used  ours  when  it  was  rough  to  write  in. 

The  accommodations  aboard  the  vessel  was  good. 
They  set  a  fair  table,  one  that  none  should  complain 
about.  We  will  give  the  bill  of  fare  for  one  day. 

For  Breakfast:  Fruit,  watercresses,  hominy,  fish- 
balls,  broiled  beefsteak,  fried  ham  and  eggs,  pancakes, 
hot  rolls,  tea,  coffee,  cocoa,  and  jam. 

For  Dinner:     Soup,   roast    lamb,  roast  pork,  beans, 


OX    SHIP    BOARD.  17 

succotash,  plum  pudding,  apple  tarts,  cheese  and  bis- 
cuits, desserts  and  coffee. 

For  Supper:  Lamb  with  peas,  potatoes,  cold  meats, 
saled,  buns,  jam,  bread  and -butter,  tea  and  coffee. 

You  will  see  from  the  above  that  our  bill  of  fare  is 
good  and  we  have  plenty  of  it.  We  see  no  cause  to 
complain  though  some  do  find  fault,  they  claim  they 
are  paying  a  big  price  for  their  accommodations, 
eight  dollars  per  day.  At  the  hotel  where  we  stopped 
in  New  York,  we  got  just  as  good  as  we  get  here  for 
less  than  two  dollars  per  day  and  that  would  leave 
them  six  dollars  a  day  for  carrying  us  across  the  At- 
lantic. If  we  figure  the  distance  of  over  400  miles 
per  day  as  being  traveled,  it  would  make  a  little  less 
than  a  cent  and  a  half  a  mile,  which  would  be  cheap 
traveling  by  land,  and  not  very  extravagant  by  water. 

The  officers  and  crew  are  all  very  obliging  and  as 
far  as  we  know  there  has  been  little  or  no  bickering 
among  the  passengers  and  crew. 

At  12  o'clock  noon,  May  10th.  we  had  made  406 
miles  in  24  hours.  We  left  the  dock  at  New  York  in 
a  rain  storm  and  have  had  so  far  rather  a  rough  time. 
I  think  quite  half  of  the  passengers  are  seasick.  We 
have  not  been  sick  thus  far  and  are  in  hopes  that  we 
shall  not  be.  It  is  thought  by  some  of  the  sailors 
that  our  storm  is  about  over  and  that  we  shall  have 
fair  weather  by  to-morrow.  They  claim  the  weather 
so  far  on  this  trip  is  much  better  than  it  was  on  the 
last  trip  made  in  April. 

We  have  quite  a  mixed  crowd  even  here  in  the 
cabin.  I  think  the  larger  part  are  German  descent. 
In  the  steerage  the  greater  part  seem  to  be  from 


18  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

Poland  and  Italy.  Many  are  going  home  to  stay. 
Some  do  not  intend  to  go  to  the  exposition  at  all, 
while  others  are  going  later  in  the  season.  One  man 
from  Wisconsin  is  going  to  England  to  purchase 
sheep  of  the  different  shire  kinds. 

One  a  Mr.  Reid,  is  going  to  Spain  to  look  after 
some  interests  which  he  has  there. 

Another  a  Mr.  Ball,  was  born  in  Germany  and  is 
going  to  make  the  rounds  of  the  Fatherland  and  ex- 
pects to  remain  in  the  country  for  two  or  three 
months.  While  we  have  one  little  Englishman  a  Mr 
Watkins  who  came  from  California,  and  is  going  home 
to  visit  his  friends  whom  he  has  not  seen  for  many 
years.  I  think  there  are  about  two-thirds  as  many 
women  on  board  as  men,  and  several  children;  some 
of  them  quite  small,  yet  they  seem  to  stand  the  trip 
as  well  as  the  older  ones. 

For  the  second  24  hours  we  made  430  miles.  This 
was  thought  to  be  a  very  fair  run  taking  into  consid- 
eration the  weather.  It  is  still  raining  with  quite  a 
high  sea  on.  This  Steamer  the  New  York  is  said  to 
be  a  good  sea  boat,  but  it  pitches  and  rolls  wonder- 
fully in  a  heavy  sea.  Nothing  like  what  I  have  seen 
on  my  former  sea  voyages ;  or  any  where  near  the  dan- 
ger line;  yet  it  is  plenty  rough  enough  for  comfort, 
and  we  are  all  wishing  for  fair  weather. 

There  are  180  passengers  in  our  cabin,  we  have  not 
yet  learned  how  many  persons  there  are  on  board  al- 
together, probably  some  where  near  a  thousand. 

The  people  are  very  harmonious,  and  every  one  is 
trying  to  entertain  himself  and  others  as  best  he  can. 
Some  are  sea  sick,  those  keep  pretty  close  to  their 


GAMES    ON    SHIP  BOARD. 


19 


berths,  while  many  others  are  spending  their  time  in 
reading,  Some  have  recourse  to  the  different  games 
for  amusement,  among  which  for  deck  exercise  is  the 
game  of  "shove/'  It  is  played  on  the  smooth  deck. 
The  paraphernalia  to  play  this  game  consists  of  eight 
pieces  of  boards,  one  inch  thick  by  about  six  inches 
in  diameter  made  round;  with  two  or  four  handles 
about  five  feet  long,  with  one  circling  end  which  is 
placed  against  the  round  piece  and  shoved  upon  the 
smooth  deck  a  distance  of  about  15  feet  where  figures 
from  one  to  ten  are  marked  in  squares  about  ten  in- 
ches in  extent.  The  number  you  get  your  piece  upon 
is  what  counts,  a  hundred  being  the  game. 

Another  being  pitching  rings  about  eight  inches  in 
diameter  made  from  three-quarter  inch  rope.  The 
game  is  played  by  having  a  hub  or  stub  and  the  one 
getting  ten  rings  over  the  hub  first  wins  the  game. 

They  had  chess  playing,  checker  playing,  and  card 
playing.  We  noticed  that  several  different  games 
were  being  played,  among  them  was  whist,  seven-up, 
forty-five,  and  some  other  games  we  did  not  know  the 
name;  and  last  if  not  the  least,  the  game  of  "draw  po- 
ker." There  were  six  men  on  board  whom  we  think 
were  professional  gamblers.  They  have  been  plajdng 
nearh^  the  whole  time  since  the  boat  left  the  dock  at 
New  York.  They  seem  to  have  had  varied  successes. 
Sometimes  one  would  be  the  winner  of  twenty  or  thir- 
ty dollars,  then  he  would  lose  and  another  take  the 
lead.  Then  a  dollar  would  go  to  the  bar  for  drinks 
or  cards.  I  think  the  bar  took  from  them  not  less 
than  ten  dollars  per  day,  which  always  came  out  of 
the  winner  of  what  they  called  the  "jack  pot."  In 


20  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

noticing  the  game  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  in 
the  end  the  bar  would  get  all  the  money.  As  it  would 
cost  about  ten  dollars  a  day  to  play,  if  they  had 
twenty-five  dollars  a  piece  in  the  start,  by  the  time 
they  arrived  at  Paris  there  would  not  be  enough  of 
the  money  left  to  pay  for  a  week's  board  for  one  per- 
son. That  might  be  all  right  if  they  had  twenty-five 
dollars  which  they  wished  to  pay  for  whiskey  and 
cigars;  but  we  believe  they  will  all  be  losers;  possi- 
ble one  may  be  a  few  dollars  ahead,  but  I  suppose 
they  required  the  excitement  to  while  away  the  time 
which  must  intervene  while  making  the  trip  from  New 
York  to  Southampton. 

The  third  da,y  we  make  411  miles.  The  storm  has 
ceased  and  the  sun  is  shining,  the  sea  is  running 
down  and  if  we  do  not  run  into  another  storm  we 
shall  have  good  weather  for  the  rest  of  the  trip. 

It  is  said  on  account  of  floating  icebergs  we  have 
been  obliged  to  take  the  long  trip,  being  a  hundred 
miles  or  more  longer  than  the  short  route. 

This  pleasant  weather  and  calmer  sea  has  had  a 
wonderful  effect  upon  the  passengers,  nearly  all  are 
now  able  to  be  around  and  enjoy  the  trip. 


CHAPTER    III. 

SUNDAY    ON    SHIP    BOARD. 

This  morning,  Sunday,  May  13th.,  there  is  a  notice 
that  there  will  be  divine  service  in  the  grand  salon 
at  10  30  A.M.  Wishing  to  get  all  the  good  I  could  I 
attended  the  call.  The  service  was  that  of  the  Epis- 
copalian and  all  finished  up  by  a  collection  for  the 
children  of  seamen  whose  home  is  located  at  South- 
ampton, England.  Those  who  were  acquainted  with 
service  of  that  church  knew  what  to  expect,  but  to  us 
it  was  new,  and  how  any  one  can  enjoy  such  meet- 
ings is  more  than  we  can  conceive.  The  service 
seemed  to  be  so  lifeless.  Not  a  single  emotion  from 
the  leader.  Everything  was  read  from  printed  mat- 
ter which' they  have  in  book  form,  and  are  the  expres- 
sions of  the  church,  and  not  a  single  thought  express- 
ed by  any  person  present,  and  what  the  leader  read 
was  in  such  a  monotone  that  it  could  scarcely  be 
heard  by  those  present,  with  every  inspiring  thought 
eliminated, 

The  music  was  an  organ  and  congregational  sing- 
ing, which  was  very  good.  We  understand  these 
meetings  are  held  under  the  auspices  of  the  steam- 
ship company,  and  the  chaplain  is  employed  by  the 
the  year  to  read  these  services,  What  salary  he  gets 
for  the  work  we  do  not  know.  Perhaps  not  more 
than  a  thousand  dollars  a  j'car.  21 


22  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

In  the  evening  we  bad  an  experience  meeting  held 
by  one  of  the  passengers  who  is  a  delegate  from  Cal- 
ifornia to  the  congress  of  religions  which  is  to  be 
held  at  Paris  on  the  2d.  pf  June.  This  speaker  had 
considerable  life  in  his  talk,  but  it  was  the  old  ortho- 
dox story,  that  you  must  be  saved  through  the  blood 
of  Jesus  Christ.  He  was  not  willing  that  man  should 
assume  any  power  over  himself  save  to  believe  in  the 
wonderful  power  there  is  in  the  blood  of  Christ. 

He  gave  us  a  little  episode  of  what  happened  in  his 
experience  some  twenty  years  ago.  He  said  while 
preaching  in  London  one  night  after  holding  service, 
he  had  retired  to  bed  and  was  in  a  happy  slumber 
when  a  loud  stroke  of  the  bell  brought  him  to  con- 
sciousness, and  when  he  had  gone  to  the  door  he 
found  a  small  lad  who  said  his  father  was  very  sick 
and  wished  him  to  come  immediately  and  see  him. 
The  boy  led  him  into  one  of  the  most  degraded  parts 
of  the  cit}7,  into  a  garret  up  many  flights  of  stairs 
where  he  found  a  family  of  six  persons  occup}'ing  one 
half  of  a  room  not  more  than  twelve  feet  square,  and 
in  one  corner  lying  upon  a  few  rags  he  found  the 
father  of  the  boy.  He  went  to  the  side  of  the  sick 
man  and  took  him  by  the  hand  and  said:  "My  broth- 
er how  is  it  that  I  find  you  in  such  undesirable  quar- 
ters?" He  answered:  "I  have  refused  to  follow  the 
precepts,  and  listen  to  the  voice  of  the  Saviour  and 
have  become  a  drunkard.  The  money  I  ought  to 
have  expended  upon  my  wife  and  children  I  have 
paid  for  strong  drink  that  has  benumbed  my  intel- 
lect, made  a  brute  of  me  and  taken  the  bread  from 
the  mouths  of  my  wife  and  children,  arid  I  am  now 


A    TALE    OF    WOE.  23 

dying  of  starvation  and  my  family  are^also  dying 
with  me."  I  requested  him  to  call  upon  the  name  of 
the  Lord  Jesus  Christ  who  was  able  and  willing  to 
save  all  who  would  come  unto  him;  and  there  in  that 
wretched  place  I  bowed  before  God  and  prayed  that 
this  drunkard's  sour  should  be  snatched  from  death 
and  perdition,  and  be  made  clean  through  the  blood 
of  the  lamb  of  God;  and  God  in  his  infinite  love 
heard  the  prayer  of  that  wicked  man  and  redeemed 
his  soul  from  death  and  he  became  a  good  Christian 
man,  and  through  his  labor  he  provided  for  his  fami- 
ly and  placed  them  in  good  comfortable  quarters.  He 
died  a  year  or  two  ago,  but  after  that  night  he  lived 
a  good  and  true  Christian  life.  And  this  he  said  was 
what  God  could  do  to  help  the  drunkard.  No  man 
he  said  was  safe  outside  of  the  blood  of  Jesus  Christ. 
All  who  do  not  believe  in  Jesus  as  a  personal  saviour 
are  liable  to  be  led  astray  at  any  time  and  be  landed 
in  hell.  Therefore  he  called  all  who  have  not  been 
saved,  to  come  now  to  the  throne  of  grace  and  ask 
God  for  his  pardoning  power  before  it  should  be  too 
late  and  the  day  of  grace  sinned  away. 

There  were  several  others  who  had  something  to 
say  in  regard  to  what  had  been  done  for  them.  I 
think  some  of  them  do  really  believe  while  in  this 
semi-trance  condition,  that  there  is  a  personal  Savior 
that  they  can  pray  to  and  that  he  is  a  prayer  hearing 
and  a  prayer  answering  God. 

But  to  a  clearheaded  rational  person  how  simple 
this  must  appear.  To  hear  one  or  them  go  over  the 
old  story  of  how  Jesus  was  born,  being  half  God  and 
half  man,  how  he  died  for  the  sins  of  the  human 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

family,  and  how  he  arose  the  third  day,  his  body 
coming  to  life  and  being  taken  up  into  heaven,  is  a 
story  too  large  for  many  of  the  present  generation  to 
accept;  although  the  speaker  thought  that  many  of 
the  brainest  men  believe  in  this  personal  God,  Son 
and  Holy  Ghost. 

To-day,  Sunday,  has  been  the  fairest  day  we  have 
had  while  on  the  trip.  We  have  made  440  miles  in 
the  last  24  hours.  We  are  drawing  up  into  a  higher 
latitude.  The  city  of  London  is  about  ten  degrees 
higher  latitude  than  the  city  of  New  York,  and  we 
can  feel  that  it  is  much  cooler  than  it  was  when  we 
left  home.  We  need  our  wraps  just  as  much  as  we 
did  two  months  ago,  though  the  sea  breeze  has  much 
to  do  with  the  cool  air  on  ship-board. 

To-day,  Monday  the  14th.  has  opened  up  rather 
rough.  A  person  cannot  walk  the  deck  with  any 
comfort.  We  have  made  434  miles  for  this  24  hours. 

This  afternoon  we  received  our  tickets  from  the 
Purser  for  different  parts  of  the  country. 

We  have  one  German  lady  with  her  young  son  12 
years  of  age  who  is  going  around  the  world  by  the 
way  of  the  Holy  Land,  Japan,  Australia,  and  San 
Francisco. 

The  passengers  are  trying  to  make  things  as  pleas- 
ant for  each  other  as  possible.  They  hold  concerts 
every  evening  from  8  to  9,  after  which  the  company 
furnish  all  who  wish  a  lunch.  We  have  four  or  five 
j?0 ung  ladies  who  can  play  quite  well  and  two  or  three 
who  have  very  good  voices  for  singing;  and  every 
evening  we  spend  an  hour  and  always  vote  that  it  is 
well  and  pleasantly  spent. 


PREPARING  FOR  AN  ENTERTAINMENT.        25 

To-day,  Tuesday  the  15th.  dawned  with  a  cloudy 
atmosphere  and  a  misty  rajn,  but  about  9  A.M.  it 
cleared  up  and  the  sun  shining  out  from  behind  the 
bank  of  fog  that  lay  off  to  the  north  of  us  and  we 
have  had  quite  a  tine  day,  save  there  was  a  little  too 
much  wind  which  stirred  up  considerable  sea.  We 
have  made  to-day  413  miles.  The  young  people  are 
making  quite  an  effort  for  a  musical  entertainment 
for  this  evening,  all  hoping  this  will  be  the  last  night 
we  shall  be  on  board. 

We  have  our  tickets  and  everything  ready  to  go  on 
shore  as  soon  as  we  come  to  land,  and  probably  very 
few  of  us  will  ever  meet  again  in  this  life;  and  the 
Reverend  Mr.  James  told  us  that  we  must  prepare 
ourselves  if  we  would  meet  each  othef  in  heaven.  But 
to  take  his  view  of  a  heaven,  and  his  way  of  prepar- 
ing for  it,  we  do  not  think  it  the  best  way,  or  even  a 
good  way;  although  if  a  man  cannot  keep  himself 
from  being  a  drunkard  without  believing  in  hell-fire 
and  a  real  place  of  torment,  why  let  him  believe  it 
with  all  his  intent. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE    ENTERTAINMENT. 

We  had  quite  an  interesting  time  at  our  entertain- 
ment. Our  young  ladies  did  remarkably  well  in 
their  songs  and  solos.  Then  came  some  readings  and 
pretty  good  acting,  after  which  we  had  a  short  talk 
about  the  holy  land.  The  speaker  said  that  the 
Turks  were  a  very  stupid  people  and  did  not  seem  to 
be  able  to  comprehend  the  correct  significance  of 
hardly  anything.  He  stated  a  case  where  the  Offi- 
cial having  the  telegraph  in  charge  would  not  let  a 
dispatch  be  sent  to  England.  It  seems  that  an  en- 
gineer had  an  occasion  to  answer  a  manufacturer 
about  the  number  of  revolutions  which  was  needed 
with  a  certain  wheel  on  the  machine,  and  the  answer 
was  "one  hundred  revolutions."  The  Inspector  said: 
No  Sir,  you  cannot  send  that  order,  for  we  will  have 
no  revolutions  in  this  country;  and  in  about  two 
hours  an  officer  came  and  arrested  him  and  placed 
him  in  prison,  and  it  was  all  the  English  minister 
could  do  to  get  him  released  from  confinement.  He 
said  that  a  number  of  one  of  the  New  York  papers 
was  confiscated  because  they  printed  in  large  letters 
the  words:  "The  Thanksgiving  Turkey."  They  be- 
lieved this  was  speaking  lightly  of  their  country. 
But  outside  of  the  people  he  thought  it  was  one  of  the 

26 


THE    HOLY    LAND.  27 

most  interesting  country  in  the  world.  He  said  they 
have  all  the  different  climates  in  the  world  on  a  little 
strip  of  land  not  more  than  150  miles  long  and  from 
50  miles  to  less  than  one  in  width.  He  said  there 
was  a  range  of  mountains  running  almost  the  entire 
length  of  this  tract  of  country.  At  the  base  on  one 
side,  it  was  a  level  country  where  were  grown  all  of 
the  semi-tropical  fruits. 

On  the  top  of  this  range  of  mountains  which  are 
from  two  to  ten  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  there  would  be  on  certain  parts  of  them  perpet- 
ual snow.  On  the  other  side  of  the  mountain  range 
where  the  river  Jordan  starts  far  up  its  slope,  and 
runs  down  a  gradual  descent  until  it  empties  its  wa- 
ters into  the  Dead  Sea  whose  surface  is  1300  feet  be- 
low the  sea  level,  are  grown  all  kinds  of  tropical  veg- 
etables, shrubbery,  and  fruits,  making  a  country  of 
continual  summer  and  winter,  all  within  the  distance 
of  less  than  twenty  miles.  In  traveling  in  this  coun- 
try you  will  find  many  things  that  would  call  to  mind 
the  sayings  of  the  old  historic  Bible  and  make  one 
think  of  two  or  more  thousands  of  years  ago.  He 
liked  the  country  quite  well  and  was  returning  to  it 
after  an  absence  of  a  year.  His  business  had  been 
that  of  teacher. 

We  had  a  short  address  from  a  missionary  who  had 
lived  eight  years  in  Siain.  He  had  his  wife  and  four 
children  with  him.  He  was  going  to  stay  ten  years. 
He  said  the  people  of  Siarn  were  a  very  hospital  na- 
tion, but  the  country  was  considerablely  broken  and 
some  of  it  was  very  rugged.  That  was  the  country 
of  the  White  Elephant.  Their  flag  being  a  white 


28  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

elephant  on  a  black  ground,  and  the  elephant  bottom 
upwards  was  their  flag  of  distress.  Those  animals 
are  quite  intelligent,  and  some  have  been  known  to 
die  of  a  broken  heart  because  they  had  been  scolded 
or  misused  by  their  owners.  They  require  kind 
treatment. 

Some  of  them  he  said  were  trained  to  lie  down  to 
receive  their  load,  but  to  receive  their  masters  they 
will  turn  up  one  of  their  forward  feet  and  when  their 
master  was  on  it  would  lift'  them  upon  their  backs. 
One  thing  peculiar  about  them  was  that  they  always 
keep  their  back  straight  and  level,  it  making  no  dif- 
ference how  rough  or  uneven  the  ground  was  there 
would  be  no  danger  of  slipping  off  from  them. 

He  said  the  language  was  quite  easily  learned,  it 
having  a  very  soft  expression,  something  like  the 
English  as  spoken  by  the  Americans. 

The  buildings  were  built  something  like  ours  of 
America,  though  not  so  elaborate  or  substantial.  He 
seemed  to  like  his  mission  very  well  and  should  con- 
tinue in  it  as  long  as  his  health  would  permit.  He 
seemed  to  be  a  very  candid  man  and  is  no  doubt  do- 
ing some  good,  although  if  the  people  are  morally  as 
good  as  he  says  they  are,  we  doubt  that  he  can  raise 
their  standard  of  morality  b}^  introducing  the  custome 
and  habits  of  the  English  speaking  people,  for  we  do 
not  believe  they  have  any  more  immorality  in  Siam 
than  we  have  in  America.. 

Wednesday  May  16th.  In  the  last  24  hours  we 
have  made  413  miles,  leaving  us  about  300  miles 
from  Southampton  and  can  make  the  distance  in 
about  18  hours.  Every  body  is  anxious  to  get  to  the 


LAST    HOUKS    ON    BOARD.  29 

end  of  the  journey  as  our  time  for  the  trip  has  already 
expired,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  heavy  weather 
we  should  now  be  viewing  the  scenes  in  Southampton. 
But  it  makes  but  little  difference.  We  shall  be  one 
day  late  in  Paris  which  we  can  offset  by  staying  one 
day  less  at  the  Exposition.  We  are  being  well  cared 
for  and  fed  on  board  the  vessel. 


CHAPTER  V. 

SOUTHAMPTON. 

We  arrived  at  the  dock  in  Southampton,  about  5 
o'clock  A.M.  and  passed  through  the  Custom  house 
about  7  A.  M.  After  getting  a  place  to  board  while 
we  remained,  we  made  a  very  pleasant  tour  of  the 
burg,  as  it  is  not  a  city,  although  it  has  over  100,000 
inhabitants,  because  it  has  no  Cathedral. 

There  are  many  interesting  places  to  visit.  The 
old  Tower  which  was  built  over  the  flood  gates  of  the 
canal  that  encompassed  the  old  town  600  years  ago. 
It  seemed  that  on  the  side  next  to  the  water  in  the 
harbor  where  the  enemies  of  the  people  used  to  attack 
the  old  town,  the  people  built  a  very  high  and  strong 
wall,  upon  which  they  put  towers  with  rooms  and 
port- holes  to  fire  from.  This  wall  was  from  forty  to 
eighty  feet  high  and  from  six  to  ten  feet  thick,  and 


30  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

about  300  feet  long.  It  is  built  of  granite  rock  laid 
up  in  lime  and  cement  mortar.  The  city  proper  that 
was  enclosed  with  this  wall,  and  a  canal  that  could 
be  filled  with  water,  was  perhaps  about  one-half  a 
mile  square.  The  old  gateway  where  the  draw-bridge 
was  placed,  is  in  a  good  state  of  perservation.  That 
is  built  of  stone  and  of  massive  structure.  That  has 
a  room  for  the  guards,  and  port- holes  for  them  to 
shoot  through,  and  there  are  the  marks  of  many  a 
shot  upon  the  walls 

The  streets  in  the  old  parts  of  the  town  are  very 
narrow,  in  many  parts  not  more  than  16  feet  wide 
and  the  sidewalks  in  places  not  over  three  feet.  But 
in  the  more  modern  parts  they  have  wider  and  better 
streets,  with  electric  lines  of  cars  running  though 
certain  parts  of  the  city.  On  one  of  the  streets  in  the 
olden  parts  of  the  town  is  situated  the  oldest  house 
in  the  town,  it  is  said  to  have  been  built  in  1060.  The 
Gateway  that  is  now  standing  is  of  more  recent  date. 
It  is  of  more  modern  construction  than  the  walls  that 
were  built  many  hundred  years  before.  The  walls 
and  towers  upon  the  walls  were  built  with  more  com- 
mon and  rougher  stone,  while  those  of  the  gate-way 
were  large  cut  stone  with  considerable  taste  displayed 
in  the  general  architectual  construction  of  the  work. 

What  such  a  massive  work  should  be  built  tor  we 
can  scarcely  conceive.  As  late  as  the  date  1743  when 
it  is  said  to  have  been  built,  we  think  that  modern 
warfare  was  such  that  this  gateway  would  have  been 
of  but  little  use  to  the  people  as  a  means  of  defense  to 
the  city.  The  walls  in  earlier  times  would  have  been 
of  some  benefit  in  its  protection. 


SOUTHAMPTON    DOCKS.  31 

They  have  several  institutions  for  the  benefit  of  the 
poor  and  afflicted.  They  have  the  home  for  the  child- 
ren of  the  sailors  who  have  been  lost  at  sea.  It  is 
said  that  2,000  sailors  who  had  families  were  lost  in 
the  last  year,  and  many  of  them  were  almost  entirely 
destitute.  They  have  also  the  first  soup-house  which 
was  established  in  1863  by  some  philanthropical  per- 
son. They  have  the  finest  docks  in  the  world.  One 
of  their  docks  contain  more  thon  20  acres  of  area  and 
the  water  is  about  25  feet  deep.  Those  docks  are 
built  of  large  cut  stone  and  the  walls  are  from  six  to 
ten  feet  thick,  with  large  flat  stone  on  top,  which  are 
level  with  the  ground  back  of  them.  This  dock  is 
built  in  the  form  of  a  square  with  an  opening  of  about 
80  feet.  Around  these  docks  are  storage  sheds  in 
which  all  kinds  of  freight  is  kept  for  the  accomoda- 
tion  of  importers  and  shippers.  Back  of  the  sheds 
is  a  rail  way  track  and  trains  of  cars  come  along  side 
these  sheds  and  are  loaded  with  freight  and  passen- 
gers. There  are  three  or  four  of  these  docks  and  they 
are  now  building  another  which  will  be  much  larger 
in  extent  than  either  of  the  others. 

It  is  said  that  there  are  more  foreign  steamers  sail- 
ing from  this  port  than  fron  any  other  port  in  the 
world.  We  cannot  write  here  all  we  wish  to  say  in 
regard  to  this  place,  but  later  on  we  shall  refer  to  it. 

We  took  a  Steamer  for  Havre  on  the  evening  of  the 
17th.  at  12  P.M.  The  vessel  though  quite  small  had 
fair  accommodations.  We  arrived  at  Havre  between 
six  and  seven  the  next  morning.  That  is  a  quaint  old 
port.  We  came  into  town  on  a  low  tide  and  ground- 
ed before  we  came  alongside  of  the  wharf.  The  tide- 


32  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

water  rises  and  falls  about  24  feet,  which  left  us  to 
land  on  a  barge  below  and  climb  a  ladder  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  shore.  Near  by  we  found  the  custom-house 
officer  who  wished  to  know  if  we  had  any  tobacco  in 
any  form,  or  liquors  of  any  kind,  and  not  having  any 
they  passed  us  on  without  looking  into  our  grips.  But 
those  who  had  as  much  as  a  pound  of  tobacco  had  to 
pay  the  duty.  I  did  not  learn  how  much  per  pound, 
but  by  paying  duty  they  could  keep  their  goods.  We 
did  not  get  to  see  much  of  this  place.  There  is  a  long 
transfer  in  Havre  by  omnibus  between  steamer  and 
railway  but  is  always  included  in  the  through  fare. 
The  cars  are  very  diffrent  from  the  American  cars. 
They  are  divided  off  into  compartments,  which  will 
accommodate  10  persons.  We  got  in  at  the  side  of  the 
car  and  were  locked  in  and  could  only  get  out  at  the 
stations  at  which  they  stop.  The  guards  seemed  to 
be  very  attentive  to  the  passengers,  and  I  think  none 
of  our  company  had  any  cause  to  complain  against  any 
of  the  officers  of  the  road. 


CHAPTER   VI. 


FROM    HAVRE    TO    PARIS. 

The  country  between  Havre  and  Paris  is  a  very 
good  one  to  study.  After  we  leave  the  coast  it  is  very 
broken.  We  passed  through  twelve  tunnels  in  a  dis- 
tant of  about  one  hundred  miles.  Some  of  them  are  a 
mile  or  more  long,  while  others  might  be  from  one 
fourth  of  a  mile  or  less.  There  are  many  villages  on  the 
route.  Some  of  them  quite  large.  The  road  bed  is  gra- 
ded up  in  some  places  so  it  passes  over  the  tops  of  the 
highest  buildings  in  the  towns.  One  village  seems  to 
be  situated  on  the  very  top  of  one  of  the  mountains. 
At  one  point,  the  cars  run  through  a  long  tunnel  to  get 
to  a  village  in  a  valley  and  another  tunnel,  one  about 
as  long  to  get  away.  The  country  is  pretty,  generally 
cultivated  even  on  the  steep  hill  sides.  The  people  all 
seem  to  live  in  villages  and  go  out  into  the  county 
to  cultivate  their  land.  We  judge  that  the  most  of  the 
land  is  cultivated  in  small  tracts,  say  from  parts  of  an 
acre  to  several  acres  in  extent.  The  farming  is  all 
done  with  one  horse.  The  most  of  the  level  land  is  of 
a  sandy  nature  and  clear  of  stone,  but  the  sub-soil  of 
the  mountains  and  hills  are  composed  of  an  entire 
mass  of  white  rock  of  a  lime-stone  order,  and  in  many 

33 


34  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

places  they  are  quarrying  it  out  and  grinding  it  into  a 
powder,  but  what  they  use  it  for  when  thus  prepared 
we  did  not  ascertain.  They  take  it  from  the  hills  and 
crush  it  to  the  size  of  hens  eggs  and  cover  all  their 
roads  to  a  depth  of  several  inches,  which  when  pack- 
ed makes  a  smooth  and  solid  road  bed.  The  roads  here 
are  the  best  of  any  we  have  ever  seen,  nearly  as 
smooth  as  a  house  floor.  The  roads  we  understand  are 
all  made  and  kept  in  repair  by  the  government,  a 
tax  being  levied  for  that  purpose.  We  cannot  say 
how  heavy  a  tax  it  takes  to  keep  them  in  repair. 

The  mode  of  travel  through  the  country  generally 
is  by  the  rail  roads,  and  it  is  divided  into  classes. 
First,  second  and  third.  The  first  class  is  about  the 
same  per  mile  as  the  first  class  would  be  in  the  States. 
About  three  cents  per  mile.  The  third  class  is  about 
one-half  that  of  the  first,  and  the  second  about  half 
way  between  the  first  and  third.  In  some  parts  they 
have  a  fourth  class  which  would  be  a  fare  of  about 
one  cent  per  mile.  The  first  three  classes  are  all  on 
the  same  car  and  are  in  compartments.  In  the  first 
class  they  are  designed  to  accommodate  six  persons 
and  are  up-holstered  in  very  fine  style.  The  second 
class  are  designed  for  ten  persons  but  not  so  well  fin- 
ished. The  third  are  still  cheaper,  and  the  fourth 
class  would  be  on  trains  run  on  certain  times  of  the 
day  and  would  be  just  plain  benches.  The  fare  on  the 
street  cars  is  one  and  three  cents  second  class,  and  two 
and  five  cents  first  class.  The  difference  in  the  fare, 
is  owing  to  the  routes  over  which  the  cars  run.  The 
classes  are  defined  b€y  the  place  you  occupy  upon  the 
car.  The  second  story  of  the  car  always  being  the 


HACK    DRIVERS   IN    PARIS.  35 

second  class  as  regards  the  fare  which  one  has  to  pay. 
The  power  used  to  drive  these  cars  is  various.  First, 
they  have  cars  drawn  by  horses ;  then  cars  drawn  by 
the  cable  system ;  then  cars  driven  by  the  trolley  wire 
system;  then  they  have  cars  propelled  by  the  third 
rail,  without  any  poles  or  wire,  and  then  they  have 
cars  driven  or  drawn  by  the  storage  battery  system. 
We  are  not  prepared  to  say  how  all  those  systems  work 
and  which  one  is  the  best.  They  all  seem  to  be  doing 
good  work  and  giving  the  people  satisfactory  service. 
We  also  saw  bicycles  and  tricycles  being  run  on  tho 
storage  system.  They  seemed  to  work  satisfactorily. 
Some  of  the  tricycles  hauled  wagons  through  the 
streets.  We  arrived  in  the  city  of  Paris  about  12 
o'clock,  noon.  The  depot  at  which  we  stopped  was  of 
considerable  importance,  and  we  may  be  able  to  give 
a  more  extended  description  later  on  in  our  work.  At 
the  depot  we  found  hundreds  of  conveyances  of  al- 
most all  kinds  drawn  by  one,  two,  and  three  horses. 
But  one  thing  we  will  say  that  we  never  saw  a 
more  gentlemanly  set  of  drivers  in  any  place  we  have 
ever  been.  They  did  not  bother  us  at  all  importuning 
for  a  job,  but  waited  to  be  asked  to  do  our  service. 
We  were  quite  fortunate  in  having  in  our  company 
one  who  could  speak  the  French  language,  a  Mr.  Ja- 
cob Ball,  and  he  very  kindly  acted  as  interpreter  for 
us,  so  that  we  do  not  know  what  we  should  have  done 
if  we  had  been  thrown  entirely  upon  ourselves,  not  be- 
ing able  to  speak  the  language.  There  are  a  good 
many  people  here  who  speak  English.  There  are  sev- 
eral business  places  and  hotels  kept  by  Amerians, 
but  Having  an  interpreter  with  us  we  did  not  look  for 


36  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

an  American  house,  but  secured  rooms  in  a  French 
hotel,  and  paid  one  dollar  per  day  for  a  large  room  for 
one  person.  The  house  was  about  one  mile  from  the 
Exposition  grounds.  The  name  of  the  proprietor  of 
this  house  is  R.  Rousselet,  6  Rue  de  la  Jussienne.  We 
had  large  rooms,  well  furnished,  with  good  beds,  no 
one  could  ask  for  better  accomodations.  The  land- 
lord furnished  our  breakfasts  for  fifteen  cents  each, 
our  other  meals  we  take  where  ever  we  may  be,  cost- 
ing us  from  30  to  40  cents  each.  Our  bill  of  fare  is 
usually,  soup,  two  kinds  of  meat  with  vegetables, 
bread,  butter,  tea  or  coffee  with  milk  and  sugar,  or 
wine  in  place  of  tea  or  coffee. 

The  French  areagreat  nation  to  eat  soup  and  bread 
with  wine.  This  is  the  principal  living  of  the  com- 
mon people.  Those  who  can  afford  it  have  meat  once 
a  day,  but  many  do  not  taste  meat  from  one  week's 
end  to  another,  yet  the}T  seem  to  be  a  healthy  nation 
and  a  happier  people  I  do  not  think  I  ever  saw.  They 
are  a  great  people  for  sociability.  Not  as  much  so  as 
the  Germans,  though  it  is  hard  to  imagine  how  a  peo- 
ple could  be  more  social  than  the  French  are  as  a  na- 
tion. They  are  called  a  nation  of  wine  bibbers,  what 
ever  that  means,  but  in  all  my  walks  through  the 
city  and  exposition  grounds  I  have  seen  but  one  man 
who  was  under  the  influence  of  liquor  and  he  was  a 
German.  And  this  to  us  seems  strange  that  in  a 
city  where  in  certain  localities  every  other  house  is  a 
dram  shop,that  there  should  be  no  drunken  men.  The 
whole  population  drink  wine;  the  men,  women  and 
the  children,  even  those  who  need  the  care  of  a  wet 
nurse  are  allowed  wine  in  a  diluted  form.  In  the 


THE    PARKS    OF   PARIS. 


37 


summer  season  the  people  live  almost  entirely  of  out 
doors.  The  most  of  the  houses  have  verandas,  awn- 
ing or  shade  trees  and  the  people  have  their  social 
parties  in  this  shade,  and  all  take  wine.  I  have  nev- 
er visited  a  city  where  the  parks  are  better  arranged 
and  kept  in  better  shape  than  in  Paris. 

Park  Buttes-Chaurnont  contains  about  sixty  acres. 
The  park  has  a  lake  with  an  island  in  the  center  with 
a  rninitaure  temple  of  the  Sybil  at  Tivoli  of  Italy.  It 
has  a  beautiful  artificial  cascade  and  and  grotto  with 
stalactites. 

The  park  which  formerly  belonged  to  Napoleon  third 
is  very  extensive,  being  nearly  a  mile  long  and  over 
a  fourth  wide.  In  this  park  are  many  things  of  much 
interest.  At  one  point  there  is  a  music  stand  or  a 
kind  of  an  amphitheatre  built  by  Napoleon  third  and 
when  the  dynasty  fell  it  was  turned  over  to  the  city 
and  is  used  by  the  bands  employed  to  make  music  for 
the  benefit  of  its  people. 

At  other  points  we  find  large  numbers  of  statues  of 
all  kinds  the  mind  can  conceive;  the  ideas  taken  from 
the  old  heathen  mythology,  as  nature  in  our  modern 
times  has  not  produced  anj'thing  of  the  nature  which 
is  here  represented.  We  find  here  statuary  represent- 
ing the  head,  breast  and  arms  of  a  man  with  the 
bod}7  of  a  horse  running  away  with  a  woman  in  his 
embrace.  Also  others  with  the  body  of  a  fish  with  a 
head,  arms  and  busts  of  a  woman.  What  the  condi- 
tion of  a  people  could  have  been  who  could  conceive 
of  such  mal-formed  productions  of  nature  we  are  at  a 
loss  to  imagine.  Besides  these  there  are  those  which 
would  represent  the  most  perfect  specimens  of  the 


38  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

human  form;  also  those  of  the  animal  kingdom.  Such 
a  combination  you  will  find  in  no  other  country  in 
the  wide  world  but  France. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE    STREETS    OP    PARIS. 

Paris  is  the  worst  laid  out  city  in  the  world.  It  is 
said  that  the  old  citizens  often  get  lost  in  the  tangled 
streets  and  have  to  apply  to  the  police  to  find  their 
way  out.  There  are  many  fine  wide  streets  well  pav- 
pd  with  different  kinds  of  material.  The  smoothest 
paving  that  we  found  is  made  from  a  cement,  some- 
thing like  the  aphsalt  used  in  some  of  the  cities  in 
the  states.  The  next  best  is  a  kind  of  wood  sawed 
into  brick  like  shaped  pieces  about  3  by  6  by  12  in- 
ches which  are  laid  on  their  edge  on  a  well  prepared 
bottom  made  of  crushed  stone  and  cement  to  the  depth 
of  twelve  or  more  inches  placed  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  apart  when  an  admixture  of  tar  or  something  of 
that  kind  is  poured  into  those  seams,  the  blocks  hav- 
ing been  previously  saturated  with  a  preparation  to 
make  them  almost  imperishable.  It  makes  a  road-bed 
almost  as  smooth  as  a  house  floor  and  one  that  will 
last  for  a  great  many  years,  the  ends  of  the  blocks  be- 
ing place  uppermost.  Certain  streets  are  paved  with 
small  blocks  of  stone,  8  inches  thick  and  6  by  8  inches 


STREETS    ANE    SIDEWALKS.  39 

square.     These  are  placed  upon  a  well   prepared   bed 
of  cement. 

The  bed  of  the  streets  are  made  ovaling  with  an  el- 
evation of  about  6  inches  to  20  feet,  and  the  streets  in 
the  whole  city  have  a  descent  of  more  or  less  so  that 
the  water  which  falls  or  is  used  on  the  steets — for  all 
the  principal  streets  in  the  city  are  washed  every  morn- 
ing— will  run  off  of  itself.  The  sidewalks  in  the  old- 
en parts  of  the  city  are  narrow  but  made  chiefly  of 
sand-stone,  with  curbing  ten  or  twelve  inches  thick, 
la  some  parts  the  sidewalks  are  not  more  than  four 
feet  wide,  but  in  the  newer  parts  they  are  eight  or  ten 
feet  in  width. 

In  many  parts  of  the  city,  the  buildings  which  are 
about  six  stories — there  being  but  few  higher — are 
built  out  even  with  the  driveways  and  a  sidewalk 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet  wide  made  in  the  lower  story. 
In  the  building  thus  situated  are  some  of  the  largest 
retail  establishments  in  the  city.  We  might  give  the 
names  of  many  of  these  steets,  such  as  the  Tuileries 
qua  de  Louvre,  the  Rue  de  Rivoli  and  many  others 
but  to  the  most  of  the  Americans  it  would  be  only 
''French"  as  it  is  to  us,  therefore  we  shall  give  as  few 
french  names  as  possible. 

As  we  have  given  a  few  descriptions  of  the  parks, 
streets,  and  some  other  things,  we  will  now  go  back  to 
the  18th  instance  when  we  arrived  and  give  what  we 
saw  each  day. 

After  we  had  become  established  in  our  new  quar- 
ters, we  took  a  short  tour  of  the  city  with  a  guide. 
We  went  past  the  French  Exchange,  one  of  the  most 
singular  places  we  ever  saw.  Here  are  hundreds  of 


40 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


people  hawking  all  kinds  of  tickets  and  stocks  upon 
the  sidewalks  and  steps  of  the  building.  This  is  a 
large  building,  elevated  twenty  or  thirty  steps  above 
the  surrounding  streets  and  the  noise  which  the  vend- 
ers were  making  was  almost  deafening,  but  it  all  be- 
ing in  the  French  language  we  could  not  understand 
it  therefore  knew  but  little  of  what  was  said.  But  no 
doubt  a  grand  lesson  might  have  been  learned  if  we 
could  only  have  understood  them. 

From  there  we  went  to  the  office  of  the  American 
Transportation  Co.  and  the  American  Exchange. 
We  found  good  English  spoken  at  each  of  those  pla- 
ces, and  could  get  any  information  we  desired.  Al- 
though at  this  point  some  of  the  most  enterprising 
business  of  the  place  is  being  carried  on,  yet  the 
streets  are  as  illy  laid  out  as  in  almost  any  other  part 
of  the  city.  On  our  route  we  stopped  at  one  of  the 
grand  Catholic  Churches.  The  Catholic  religion 
seems  to  be  the  popular  religion  of  the  city.  This 
church  seemed  to  be  open  at  all  times  of  the  day  and 
its  communicants  drop  in  at  anty  time  when  they  may 
pass  its  doors  and  receive  the  blessings  of  the  church. 
After  returning  from  our  ramblings  about  the  city,  we 
attempted  to  write  up  this  history  but  soon  fell  into  a 
tranquil  sleep  and  knew  nothing  more  until  the  morn- 
ing of  the  19th.  when  we  found  ourselves  much  re- 
freshed by  a  good  nights  rest  and  sleep. 

We  walked  down  from  our  hotel  to  the  entrance  of  the 
Exposition,  a  distance  of  about  one  mile.  There  being 
no  street  cars  running  nearer  than  half  a  mile  of  our 
hotel.  Our  way  lay  right  by  the  post  office,  the  ar- 
mory and  many  large  business  blocks,  also  by  the 


GRAND    ENTRANCE. 

Palais  'du  Louvre.  This  is  the  palace  of  the  late  Em- 
peror Napoleon  III,  whose  park  has  since  his  dynasty 
been  turned  into  a  public  park.  The  street  which  is 
on  our  route  to  the  exposition  has  some  of  the  largest 
retail  houses  in  the  city.  In  the  walk  passing  those 
houses  one  cannot  fail  to  see  almost  anything  a  per- 
son would  wish  to  purchase. 

Just  before  we  arrive  at  the  grand  entrance  we 
come  to  the  park  called  the  Jardin  des  Tuileries,  this 
is  a  part  of  the  grounds  formerly  belonging  to  the  Em- 
peror. In  one  end  stands  the  Obelisk  which  was 
brought  by  the  French  from  Egypt  at  a  cost  of  $400, 
000.  It  is  much  larger  than  the  one  we  have  in  Cen- 
tral Park,  New  York.  Near  this  point  which  is  an 
open  court  some  400  by  600  feet,  there  are  many  very 
fine  statues,  the  like  which  we  think  can  be  found  in 
no  other  city  in  the  world.  This  point  is  called  the 
Place  de  la  Concorde,  and  is  one  of  the  great  views  of 
the  city  of  Paris.  Eight  in  the  center  on  the  west 
side  of  this  grand  place  is  erected  the  magnificent 
arch  to  the  grounds  of  the  exposition.  We  cannot 
give  a  description  of  this  arch,  it  is  beyond  the  power 
of  any  pen  to  do  it  justice.  We  can  simply  give  a 
few  of  its  measurements  and  leave  those  who  have  not 
seen  a  cut  of  it  to  imagine  what  it  is  like.  The  width 
of  the  main  entrance  is  about  50  feet,  the  height  about 
100  feet.  It  covers  over  5,000  square  feet  of  ground. 
The  style  is  Moorish,  and  the  figure  of  Peace  upon  the 
central  dome  is  draped  in  flowing  robes,  of  a  woman 
of  the  present  day,  arrayed  in  the  latest  fashion,  and 
represents  the  city  of  Paris  welcoming  her  guests.  It 
is  nearly  a  score  of  feet  in  height. 


42 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


It  is  said  that  sixtj^  thousand  persons  per  hour  can 
pass  through  these  gates,  there  being  58  passages  of 
entrance.  There  are  3,152  electric  lamps  of  various 
kinds  and  colors  to  illumine  and  the  effect  is  gorgeous 
in  the  extreme.  The  facade  is  preceded  by  two  pro- 
longations which  form  an  outer  arch,  and  upon  these 
out-posts  are  mounted  magnificent  sculptures  which 
represent  "Labor",  The  minarets  on  each  side  are 
higher  than  the  grand  arch  and  are  dwarfs  of  the 
Obelisk  that  stands  near  by  which  once  was  the  won- 
der of  the  world.  Each  minaret  is  crowned  by  two 
lights  of  tremendous  power. 

As  we  passed  through  this  grand  entrance  we  en- 
tered the  beautiful  gardens  which  extend  on  one  side 
of  the  Champs  Elysees — the  street  upon  which  this 
arch  is  built — and  on  the  other  side  to  the  bank  of 
the  Seine.  These  gardens  are  a  part  of  the  exhibi- 
tion. On  the  right  as  we  pass  through  the  garden 
we  come  to  the  Petit  Palais  and  the  Grand  Palais. 
They  are  both  fine  structures,  and  are  being  used  to 
exhibit  the  fine  arts,  both  of  sculpture  and  paintings. 

The  Grand  Palais  is  about  500  feet  long  and  40 
feet  high,  built  in  the  form  of  a  triangle  with  a  large 
court  in  the  center.  These  two  buildings  cost  5,000, 
000  dollars  and  were  built  in  four  years. 

The  bridge  called  the  Pont  Alexandre  III.,  is  a 
magnificent  piece  of  work.  The  arch  of  the  bridge  is 
about  20  feet  above  the  water,  about  200  feet  long  and 
80  feet  wide.  It  has  a  passage-way  on  each  side  10 
feet  wide  for  pedestrians  and  60  feet  in  the  center  for 
carriages.  At  the  entrance  on  each  side  is  a  pillar  a- 
bout  20  feet  high  which  is  crowned  with  figures  rep- 


OLD    PARIS. 


43 


resenting  Fame.  The  decorations  about  this  bridge 
are  all  finished  in  gold.  It  is  a  grand  affair  and  we 
may  pronounce  it  beautiful. 

The  Hotel  des  InvaKdes  is  symbolical  of  France  un- 
der Louis  XIV.  This  is  decorated  with  garlands  of 
leaves  in  bronze  on  one  side  'and  groups  of  lions  on 
the  other. 

The  Pavilion  of  the  City  of  Paris  is  an  example  of 
French  architecture  of  the  best  school.  The  building 
is  of  the  finest  style  of  construction  and  convenience, 
but  the  exhibits  are  all  of  the  most  modern,  executed 
in  the  different  training  schools  of  the  city,  with  im- 
portant works. 

Farther  on  we  corne  to  the  Horticulture  building 
with  its  conservatories,  and  near  by  is  the  Topsy  Tur- 
vy  House.  This  we  think  is  an  original  idea  with  the 
constructor,  but  it  does  not  strike  us  as  being  of  an 
educational  nature  and  therefore  of  little  benefit  to 
any  of  us. 

The  Palace  of  Social  Economy  is  an  enormous  stuc- 
ture  built  with  massive  looking  walls. 

Near  this  is  uOld  Paris."  In  this  part  of  the  ex- 
hibit we  get  a  very  good  idea  of  what  Paris  was  two 
or  three  hundred  years  ago.  It  is  really  a  part  of 
the  city  and  is  enclosed  within  the  exposition  grounds. 

The  day  being  nearly  spent  and  all  of  us  about  as 
tired  as  we  cared  to  be,  we  returned  _to  our  hotel  by 
taking  the  electric  cars  which  ran  within  three  blocks. 

After  taking  our  supper — called  dinner  here — we 
soon  retired  to  rest.  I  must  give  an  idea  of  what  we 
get  to  eat  and  about  what  it  costs.  Our  menu  is  about 
like  the  following.  First,  soup,  which  is  usually  of 


44  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

about  four  different  kinds.  We  have  bread  to  eat 
with  the  soup.  It  is  made  in  all  shapes,  from  a  small 
twist  about  six  inches  long,  worth  in  our  money  one 
cent,  to  more  than  a  yard  long,  worth  twelve  cents. 
This  soup  and  bread  will  cost  about  eight  cents.  Then 
meat  of  almost  any  kind  you  may  call  for,  prepared 
in  almost  any  style  you  may  desire.  This  will  be 
ten  cents.  Then  tea,  coffee  or  wine,  this  will  be  three 
cents  per  cup  or  glass.  If  you  want  vegetables,  it 
will  be  two  cents  per  dish.  Butter  will  be  one  cent 
any  desert  five  cents  and  from  one  to  two  cents  to  the 
waiter,  as  they  get  no  wages  from  the  employer  ex- 
cept their  board,  and  many  of  them  pay  for  this  and 
give  from  forty  cents  to  two  dollars  per  day  for  the 
privilege  of  waiting  upon  the  table,  and  expect  to  pay 
these  expenses  from  the  tips  they  get  from  those  they 
wait  upon. 

With  this  bill  of  fare  and  tips  it  will  usually  cost 
about  35  cents  for  a  meal  in  the  city  outside  the  ex- 
position grounds,  the  same  costing  from  fifty  to  sixty 
cents  inside  the  grounds. 

Of  course  a  person  can  spend  all  the  money  he  may 
care  to  here  in  this  city.  At  some  of  the  hotels  they 
charge  fifty  dollars  per  week  with  or  without  service, 
but  we  get  good  board  and  service  for  about  fifteen 
dollars  a  week. 

After  we  had  enjoyed  a  night  of  rest  and  good  sleep 
we  were  prepared  for  another  day  of  sight  seeing  and 
it  being  Sunday  the  20th.  we  concluded  to  employ  a 
guide  and  take  in  the  city. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


HISTORY    OF    FRANCE. 

In  order  to  give  all  a  better  idea  of  what  we  may 
say  about  what  we  saw  on  this  day's  tramp  it  might 
be  advisable  to  give  a  few  scraps  of  the  ancient  and 
modern  history  of  Paris.  The  present  city  is  nearly 
circular  in  form,  and  is  about  fifteen  miles  in  circum- 
ference, having  a  population  of  2,500,000  in  1891. 
The  river  Seine  passes  through  the  city  and  is  very 
meandering  in  its  course  though  the  greater  part  of 
the  city  is  on  the  north  of  the  river.  The  fable  says 
that  Francus,  a  son  of  Hector,  founded  the  city  and 
gave  it  the  name  of  his  uncle,  Paris.  But  putting  a- 
wiiy  all  fables  and  using  what  authentic  information 
we  can  obtain  we  can  date  back  thirty-five  years  be- 
fore the  Christian  era.  In  that  year,  Julius  Caesar 
was  pursuing  his  conquests  in  Gaul  and  sent  his  lieu- 
tenant to  Parisii  which  was  situated  on  the  island  in 
the  Seine  river,  then  known  as  the  Sequana  river.  On 
this  little  island  which  is  about  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  long  and  about  one-eighth  of  a  mile  wide  was 
situated  the  fortress,  and  afterwards  the  towers  of 
Notre  Dame  was  erected  and  this  is  really  the  nucleus 
of  modern  Paris.  45 


46  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

Caesar  took  the  fortress  and  compelled  the  inhabit- 
ants to  submit  to  his  rule,  and  he  civilized  them  ac- 
cording to  his  idea  and  made  them  renounce  the  wor- 
ship of  their  gods  and  burn  incense  to  Rome. 

A  temple  to  Mars  and  another  to  Jupiter  were 
built  and  sometime  in  the  fourth  century,  bridges 
were  built  from  the  island  to  the  opposite  banks. 
Buildings  were  erected  along  the  banks,  and  the  most 
important  was  the  Palais  des  Thermes,  the  residence 
of  the  Emperor  Julian,  the  ruins  which  are  still  there 
adjoining  the  Hotel  de  Cltiny.  Julian's  record  of  the 
place  is  that  the  climate  is  soft  and  genial,  the  water 
good,  and  the  vines  are  good,  and  very  numerous. 

In  the  fifth  century  this  little  city  was  taken  by  a 
union  of  tribes  called  the  Franks  or  Freemen.  Tha 
holy  maiden  Genevieve  did  good  service  to  this  cap- 
tive city  by  bringing  into  the  place  an  abundance  of 
provision,  and  afterwards  obtaining  lenient  treatment 
from  the  victor.  Saint  Genevieve  died  at  the  age  of 
eighty-nine  years. 

The  earliest  saint  connected  with  Paris  was  Saint 
Denis  who  was  beheaded  by  the  order  of  the  Roman 
governor,  and  the  legend  asserts  that  after  his  decapi- 
tation he  marched  across  the  Seine  carrying  his  head 
in  his  hands  before  him.  The  savage  conqueror 
Clovis  chose  Paris  for  his  residence,  in  the  year  493. 

Clovis  embraced  the  Catholic  religion  and  was 
baptized  by  the  Arch-bishop  of  Rheims,  but  he  al- 
ways remained  a  blood-thirsty  tyrant,  and  one  of  his 
last  acts  was  to  put  to  death  a  number  of  his  relatives 
that  they  could  not  interfere  with  four  sons  among 
whom  he  divided  his  kingdom,  but  after  a  time  the 


HISTORY    OF    PARIS. 


47 


youngest  son  obtained  the  sole  power  and  Paris  was 
the  metropolis. 

In  885  Paris  was  besieged  by  the  Norsemen  who 
i'ailed  to  capture  it.  She  grew  slowly  through  her 
commerce  and  became  a  city  of  considerable  impor- 
tance, and  about  this  time  had  not  less  than  20,000 
students  in  the  different  schools. 

From  the  13th.  century  the  French  kings  found 
their  power  restricted  by  the  nobility.  The  dukes 
often  defied  the  monarch.  But  Philip  II.  regained 
the  power  of  the  kings  by  uniting  with  the  common 
people  and  giving  them  more  power.  Paris  then  con- 
tained over  800,000  inhabitants,  and  was  considered  a 
very  wealthy  city.  The  fortifications  of  Paris  were 
strengthened,  and  printing  was  early  established  and 
it  became  the  center  of  literature,  art  and  science. 

Paris  was  embellished  by  the  different  kings,  and 
the  Louvre  was  partly  rebuilt  at  this  time  and  the 
Palace  of  the  Tuileries  was  begun  and  the  Hotel  de 
Ville  was  built. 

In  1572  the  massacre  of  Saint  Bartholemew  was 
perpetrated  at  this  point  on  August  24th.  Ten  thou- 
sand Huguenots  were  murdered  in  Paris,  and  over 
70,000  throughout  France.  After  the  terrible  Hugue- 
not wars  were  over  Paris  improved  rapidly,  but  before 
the  contest  was  settled,  Paris  had  to  undergo  a  seige 
in  which  more  than  13,000  persons  perished  through 
famine  and  other  causes. 

From  1600  Paris  became  more  and  more  the  city 
after  which  others  were  modeled  in  style  of  architec- 
ture, painting,  art,  French  fashions,  literature,  and 
dress,  habits  and  customs  of  ordinary  life. 


48  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

In  the  next  decade  there  were  mariy  fine  buildings 
erected.  The  Palace  Royal  was  built  by  Cardinal 
Richelieu,  and  the  Hotel  des  Invalides.  The  Palace 
Vendome,  the  garden  of  the  Tuileries  and  manj7  other 
grand  places,  but  this  was  all  done  at  the  expense  of 
the  common  people.  As  the  rich  grew  richer,  the 
poor  became  poorer.  There  were  squalid  and  ruin- 
ous houses  and  streets  in  close  proximity  to  the  gor- 
geous palaces  of  the  nobility.  For  the  rich,  Paris  of- 
fered every  sort  of  luxury ;  for  the  toiling  masses,  the 
great  city  gave  nothing  but  the  means  of  dragging  on 
a  bare  life  under  poverty  and  suffering. 

From  this  time  to  1789  there  was  great  poverty 
among  the  common  people.  The  different  mouarchs 
levied  tax  upon  tax  until  the  people  literally  groaned 
under  the  burden.  And  in  1790  the  people  marched 
to  Versailles  and  brought  the  king  and  queen  in  tri- 
umph to  the  capital. 

In  1791  the  king  and  queen  and  their  children,  hav- 
ing endeavored  to  escape  out  of  France,  were  brought 
back  as  prisoners  to  the  the  capitol.  In  the  next 
year,  the  king  and  his  family  were  transfered  as  pris- 
oners to  the  tower  of  the  Temple,  and  the  monarchy 
was  overturned  and  the  republic  was  set  up  with  the 
guillotine. 

From  September  1792  to  August  1794  there  was  a 
reign  of  terror,  when  every  day  saw  a  number  of  per- 
sons condemned  to  death  and  decapitated  within 
twenty-four  hours,  in  the  presence  of  howling,  singing 
and  screaming  mobs,consisting  as  largely  of  women  as 
of  men,  who  seemed  to  be  literally  drunk  with  the 
horrible  excitement  of  lawlessness  and  bloodshed. 


THE    EMBELLISHMENT    OF    PARIS.  49 

Paris  was  the  center  of  the  frenzy  that  seized  the 
whole  of  France,  and  one  party  after  another  had  its 
day  in  devouring  its  own  children.  At  last  young 
Bonaparte  planted  cannons  at  different  points  in. 
Paris  and  fired  on  the  citizens  with  volle}rs  of  grape 
shot  which  put  an  end  to  the  lawless  demonstration. 

General  Bonaparte  not  only  put  down  the  mob  of 
Paris,  but  also  put  down  the  government  and  estab- 
lished himself  as  Emperor  of  France.  With  his  rest- 
less energy  which  was  a  prominent  feature  in  this  ex- 
traordinary person,  he  set  about  to  improve  and  em- 
belJish  Paris.  The  Arc  de  Triomphe,  the  Vendome, 
the  Madeleine,  and  several  fine  bridges  are  his  works. 

At  the  close  of  his  reign  many  things  were  left  un- 
finished but  were  completed  by  later  monarchs.  In 
1818  the  first  gas  jets  were  used  to  light  the  city  in 
place  of  the  old  oil  lamps,  which  in  the  time  of  the 
revolution  were  often  hauled  down  that  persons  ob- 
noxious might  be  swung  up  in  their  place. 

There  were  many  improvements  made  in  Paris  dur- 
ing the  seventeen  years  that  Louis  Phillippe  sat  upon 
the  throne.  The  Place  de  la  Concorde,  and  the  Obe- 
lish  of  Luxor  were  laid  out  and  erected,  and  new 
streets  and  boulevards  were  opened  and  many  of  the 
old  buildings  on  the  Louvre  and  the  Tuileries  were 
cleared  away  and  fine  structures  erected  in  their 
place.  In  the  reign  of  Louis  the  fortifications  around 
Paris  were  erected  at  a  cost  of  over  $30,000,000  which 
was  a  heavy  tax  upon  the  people.  The  streets  of  the 
City  were  widened  and  newly  paved  and  the  Railway 
Termini  were  built  and  is  one  of  the  most  convenient 
and  commodious  in  the  world. 


50  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  second  Empire  from  1852  to  1870  was  very 
brilliant.  Louis  Napoleon  who  was  sworn  in  as  pres- 
ident betrayed  his  trust,  and  through  the  soldiery  he 
crushed  the  second  Republic  by  shooting  down  hun- 
dreds of  peaceful  citizens  in  December  1851,  and  he 
attempted  to  keep  the  people  in  good  humor  by 
means  of  the  wars  of  Crimea,  Austria  and  Mexico. 

The  Perfect  of  the  Seine,  Baron  Hausmann  formed 
in  himself  a  fort  of  Board  of  works,  and  pulled  down 
old  buildings  and  laid  out  new  boulevards,  and  re- 
built with  marvellous  celerity. 

Sixty  million  dollars  of  the  people's  money  was 
thus  spent  in  these  improvements,  which  caused  the 
people  to  literally  groan  under  the  weight  of  taxation, 
though  every  thing  went  merry  as  a  marriage  bell  and 
they  held  two  exhibitions,  in  1855  and  in  1867. 

But  the  fair  prospects  became  clouded  with  the 
omen  of  future  misfortune.  The  people  at  first  de- 
lighted with  improvement,  were  beginning  to  look 
aghast  at  the  enormous  cost;  the  expense  of  living 
had  been  greatly  increased,  a  heavy  tax  had  been 
placed  on  everything  that  passed  the  gates  of  the 
city;  and  at  the  beginning  of  1870  there  was  a  debt 
to  be  met  of  nearly  fifty  millions  of  dollars. 

At  the  close  of  1870  found  Paris  closely  besieged 
by  the  German  armies.  The  city  held  out  for  a 
hundred  and  twenty-five  days,  and  cut  off  from  ordi- 
nary means  of  communication,  yet  by  the  means  of  a 
balloon,  Gambetta  got  out  of  the  beleagued  town 
and  proceeded  to  organize  a  system  of  defense. 

All  sorties  to  and  from  the  city  failed,  and  famine 
with  nearly  13,000  deaths  occured  in  Paris  in  the 


FAMINE    itf    PARIS.  51 

month  of  December,  and  in  January  1871  after  a  har- 
assing bombardment,  Paris  capitulated.  The  hard- 
ships of  the  siege  had  been  frightful.  Cats  and  dogs 
had  been  devoured;  even  rats  and  mice  were  sought 
after  for  food.  Bread  was  a  coarse  mixture  of  oats, 
rye,  peas  and  other  things  utterly  uneatable. 

At  last  the  animals  in  the  menageries  were  slaught- 
ered for  food.  The  flesh  of  the  camel  was  worth  one 
dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  pound.  An  elephant's  trunk 
brought  nine  dollars,  and  a  piece  of  a  kangaroo  was 
worth  one  twenty  per  pound. 

When  the  enemy  had  retired  there  was  another  foe 
to  be  conquered.  The  National  Guards  refused  to 
hand  over  to  the  regular  army  the  artillery  they  had 
seized,  and  held  Paris  two  months;  fighting  against 
the  French  army,  while  the  government  of  the  Com- 
mune held  sway  in  the  city.  They  shot  the  generals 
who  fell  into  their  hands,  and  set  fire  to  many  public 
buildings,  and  pulled  down  the  Vendome  Column. 

The  Communists  erected  barricades  in  the  streets 
and  fought  the  soldiers  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet. 
Great  numbers  were  shot,  and  at  first  no  quarters 
were  given.  Afterwards  courts  were  held  and  the 
prisons  were  cleared  by  wholsale  exportation  to  penal 
colonies.  The  damage  inflicted  on  Paris  was  over 
$150,000,000,  an  enormous  sacrifice. 

The  last  Republic  was  established  with  great  dif- 
ficulty, but  has  proved  thus  far  more  stable.  For 
3rears  the  ruined  buildings  remained  as  a  kind  of  me- 
mento of  mob  rule.  But  the  ruins  are  now  cleared 
away  and  the  Vendome  set  up  again,  and  the  cit}7  has 
resumed  its  normal  aspect. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

SIGHT   SEEING   WITH    A    GUIDE. 

As  we  told  you  in  the  foregoing  that  we  took  a 
guide  on  Sunday  to  view  the  city,  the  first  point  of 
interest  that  we  shall  note  is  the  Catholic  church  La 
Madeleine.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  modern  churches 
in  Paris  In  architecture  it  is  classical,  being  built 
in  the  form  of  a  Greek  temple,  with  a  splended  col- 
onnade around  it  of  fifty-two  Corinthian  pillars.  Col- 
ossal statues  of  saints  adorn  the  niches  in  the  walls. 
The  sculptured  pediment  on  the  southern  front  is  the 
largest  known  to  exist.  The  interior  is  exceedingly 
handsome  and  the  rich  marbles  of  various  colors  and 
the  rows  of  graceful  Corinthian  pillars  contributing 
greatly  to  its  splendor.  This  church  was  begun  in 
1753  and  not  completed  until  1843  in  the  reign  of 
Louis  Philippe.  The  pictures  in  the  church  gener- 
ally represent  some  event  in  the  life  of  Saint  Mary 
Magdalen ;  the  statues  of  the  Saviour  and  of  various 
saints  that  decorate  the  building,  are  placed  with 
these  in  the  various  chapels  around  the  nave. 

In  entering  by  the  broad  flight  of  steps  from  the 
Place  de  la  Madeleine,  we  have  on  the  right  the 
sculpture  representing  the  marriage  of  the  Virgin, 
on  the  right  hand  proceeding  onwards  are  found  the 

52 


STATUARY    OF    THE    MADALENE  53 

conversion  of  Mary  Magdalen,  the  Magdalen  at  the 
foot  of  the  cross;  and  the  praying  Magdalen,  with  the 
statue  of  Saint  Amelie,  Christ,  and  Saint  Clotida  who 
persuaded  her  fierce  husband  to  embrace  Christanity; 
and  by  the  high  alter,  the  "Statue  Raptue"  of  Saint 
Mary  Magdalen.  Near  the  west  door  are  the  statues 
of  Saint  Augustine,  the  picture  of  the  death  of  Saint 
Maiy  Magdalen,  the  picture  of  Saint  Mary  at  the 
sepulchre,  the  statue  of  the  Virgin  and  child;  feast 
of  Simon,  and  the  statue  of  Saint  Vincent  de  Paul; 
and  near  the  entrance  the  Baptism  of  Christ,  by  the 
sculptor  Rude.  The  music  at  Mass  in  this  church  is 
especially  grand  and  imposing,  and  the  sight  of  this 
structure  will  pay  any  one  who  may  visit  Paris  to 
spend  an  hour  in  this  wonderful  church. 

The  church  of  Saint  Augustin  is  a  fine  builtmodern 
edifice.  It  is  especially  associated  with  the  family 
history  of  Napoleon  111.  and  was  built  in  1866.  The 
dome  is  160  feet  high,  and  the  interior  is  artisticly 
decorated,  but  there  is  an  absence  of  pillars  and  col- 
umns. In  the  square  immediately  opposite  is  a  fine 
statue  of  Jeanne  d'Arc  recently  erected  by  public 
subscription. 

The  Pare  Monceau  was  laid  out  more  than  a  centu- 
ry ago  by  the  Duke  of  Orleans.  It  was  a  fashionable 
resort  of  the  higher  classes,  and  balls  and  fetes  were 
given  by  the  ducal  proprietor,  until  the  Revolution 
of  1789,  and  it  became  national  property  after  the 
Revolution  of  1848.  It  has  some  good  statuary  and 
two  relics  of  the  past  times.  A  large  sheet  of  water 
and  a  row  of  Corinthian  columns. 


54  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  Arc  de  Triomphe  de  S'Etoile,  a  splendid  mon- 
ument and  one  of  the  best  architectural  works  in  the 
whole  capital.  It  was  commenced  in  1805  by  the 
order  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon  I.  It  is  the  largest 
triumphal  arch  in  the  world,  being  160  feet  in  height, 
164  feet  in  width  and  72  feet  deep.  It  is  adorned 
with  groups  of  sculpture  representing  scenes  in  the 
history  of  France,  from  the  breaking  out  of  the  revo- 
lutionary war  in  1792  until  the  peace  of  1815;  such 
as  the  departure  of  troops  in  1792. 

A  very  fine  view  is  obtained  from  the  top  of  the 
Arc  over  the  Champs  Elysees,  and  over  the  city  of 
Paris;  but  as  the  ascent  is  made  by  climbing  264  steps 
the  view  is  partly  paid  for  by  the  strength  expended 
in  the  ascent  but  just  as  fine  a  view  may  be  had  from 
the  tower  of  the  Trocadero  which  ascent  ma}'  be  made 
by  a  commodious  lift.  It  is  thought  that  Napoleon's 
idea  in  this  arrangement  was  more  profound  than  the 
simple  picturesque  aspect.  It  will  be  seen  that  can- 
nons placed  around  the  arch  would  sweep  the  city  for 
many  miles  around  on  every  side,  and  in  point  of 
fact  the  Communists  took  advantage  of  this  position 
in  May  1871,  and  it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty 
that  they  were  dislodged. 

The  Palais  du  Trocadero  was  erected  for  the  Exhi- 
bition of  1878,  half  by  public  contribution  and  half 
by  a  city  tax.  It  was  presented  to  Paris  on  condition 
that  it  should  be  kept  in  order.  The  name  was  tak- 
en from  a  fort  in  Cadiz. 

The  center  building  is  circular  with  a  dome  and 
two  minarets.  The  dome  is  180,  and  the  minarets 
270  feet  in  height. 


A    VISIT    TO   THE    LOUVRE.  55 

The  Salle  des  Fetes  forms  a  great  feature  of  the 
inside.  It  has  accomodation  for  five  thousand  visit- 
ors. From  the  balconies  a  splendid  view  of  Paris 
may  be  enjoyed.  It  has  a  young  but  pleasant  park. 

A  fine  view  of  the  Champ  de  Mars,  the  site  of  the 
present  exhibition  may  be  had,  also  of  the  Eiffel 
Tower  and  over  the  grounds. 

Champs  de  Mars,  has  been  used  to  hold  all  the  ex- 
hibitions held  in  Paris  since  1867,  It  is  a  large  rec- 
tangular expanse.  It  joins  on  the  north  the  great 
Ecole  Militaire,  erected  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XV.  for 
the  education  of  five  hundred  gentilshommes  for  the 
military  career. 

We  next  visited  the  Louvre  and  its  treasures.  This 
is  the  greatest  artistic  treat  in  Paris. 

The  Palace  of  the  Louvre,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Notre  Dame  is  the  most  ancient,  as  it  is  undoubtedly 
the  grandest  monument  of  Paris.  The  original  pal- 
ace was  built  as  a  fortress  and  was  enlarged  by  vari- 
ous kings,  and  was  changed  from  fortress  to  palace 
by  Francis  I.  when  the  southern  and  western  facades 
were  constructed  and  used  as  a  battery  to  fire  upon 
the  Huguenots  during  the  massacre  of  St.  Batholo- 
mew.  Each  of  the  kings  of  France  have  enlarged 
and  embellished,  and  made  not  only  a  palace  of  it  but 
a  royal  residence,  and  the  different  objects  and  works 
of  art  were  collected  here  from  time  to  time  until 
they  had  the  finest  collection  in  the  world. 

The  Great  Napoleon  enriched  it  with  various  col- 
lections from  different  countries,  and  Napoleon  III. 
conceived  the  design  of  uniting  the  Louvre  and  the 
Tuileries  into  one  harmonious  whole.  The  Louvre 


56  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

now  contains  eleven  different  collections  of  treasures; 
forming  one  of  the  most  complete  magnificent  displays 
in  the  world;  containing  splendid  galleries  of  paint- 
ings comprising  the  Italian,  Flemish,  Spanish  and 
modern  French  schools;  Greek,  Roman,  Egyptian, 
and  Assyrian  antiquities,  sculpture,  articles  of  jewel- 
lery ancient  and  modern,  porcelain,  cameos,  a  naval 
and  an  ethnographical  collection.  Oriental  curiosi- 
ties and  a  library  of  rare  books. 

The  main  building  is  in  the  form  of  a  hollow 
square  around  the  large  Cour  du  Louvre,  with  two 
long  annexes  on  the  west.  The  southern  extention 
being  occupied  by  the  different  collections. 

On  the  eastern  front  of  the  Louvre  a  fine  series  of 
fifty-two  Corinthian  pillars  in  pairs.  The  bust  of  the 
Grand  Monarque  on  the  pediment,  erected  in  1685. 

The  sides  of  the  Louvre  were  designed  and  built  by 
different  architects.  The  central  pavilion  opposite 
the  Palace  Royal  is  especially  rich  in  decoration. 
The  interior  court  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of 
French  architecture  and  exhibits  various  epochs  of  the 
art.  The  entire  edifice  is  decorated  on  each  side  with 
the  names  of  different  monarchs  and  their  espoused. 
The  Pavilion  Richelieu  has  Corinthian  pillars  and 
elaborate  sculpture.  There  are  three  archways  thro' 
the  the  north  wings  which  are  used  for  foot-passen- 
gers and  carriages.  All  the  exhibits  are  on  the  first 
floor,  and  the  ceiling  is  25  feet  high. 

As  we  enter  by  the  Pavilion  Demon,  on  the  left  are 
mouldings  from  the  antique,  and  on  the  right  are 
fragments  of  ancient  sculpture  and  modern  castings 
of  celebrated  ancient  statues,  such  as  the  Apollo 


THE    LOUVKE.  57 

Belvedere,  the  Laocoan,  Ariadne  of  the  Vatican  etc. 
Then  we  enter  into  the  Vestibule  Dam,  where  in  the 
center  we  find  the  sarcophagus  of  Salonica  with  a 
combat  of  Amazons,  also  a  collection  of  funeral  urns 
with  inscriptions.  A  head  of  Alcibeades  and  an  altar 
dedicated  to  Jupiter  is  to  be  seen.  In  the  Rotonda  is 
the  famous  statue  known  as  the  Borghese  of  Mars, 
discovered  in  the  Temple  of  Apollo  Actium. 

From  the  Rotunda  opening  southward  is  a  series 
of  halls  of  antique  sculpture,  comprising  colossal 
heads  of  Maecenas  and  Caracalla  with  busts  of  Ro- 
man Emperors  and  Empresses.  In  the  center  of  one 
of  the  halls  is  a  statue  of  the  Roman  Orator,  one  of 
the  most  perfect  now  extant,  and  also  of  all  the  Ro- 
man Emperors  from  Augustus  to  Trajan.  In  another 
room  we  find  some  antique  Greek  sculpture,  a  treas- 
ure in  the  form  of  a  piece  of  frieze  from  the  eastern 
facade  of  the  Parthenon,  and  some  fragments  of  the 
Temple  of  Jupiter.  Then  near  by  we  find  a  colossal 
bust  of  Theseus,  and  a  Hero  combating,  and  a 
wounded  Amazon  and  many  other  figures. 

In  another  hall  we  find  a  fine  bust  of  Alexander 
the  Great  found  at  Tivoli,  and  the  magnificent  sar- 
cophagus of  Actaeon,  also  the  Venus  of  Milo,  one  of 
the  Master  pieces  of  ancient  sculpture,  and  one  of  the 
most  valuable  treasures  of  the  Louvre.  We  find  here 
a  charming  statue  of  Psyche,  a  grand  head  of  a  vic- 
torious young  athlete,  and  two  curious  sarcophagi 
found  near  Bordeaux  in  1805.  In  the  hall  of  Adonis 
there  a?e  three  scenes  of  the  youthful  favorite  of  Ve- 
nus; the  departure  for  the  chase;  wounded  by  the 
boar,  and  the  death  of  Adonis. 


58  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

la  the  Corridor  de  Pan  we  find  colossal  figures  to 
support  the  galley  in  which  Henry  Navarre  was  mar- 
ried. In  the  court  on  the  right  side  are  the  galleries 
devoted  to  modern  French  sculpture.  This  is  con- 
tained in  six  rooms.  The  first  has  the  various  fine 
works  by  Le  Puget,  such  as  the  Perseus,  Milo  of 
Crotona,  Hercules  and  others,  with  various  works  by 
Legros,  such  as  the  seasons,  Winter  and  Summer,  and 
a  fine  bust  of  Boileau.  To  the  left  are  the  busts  of 
Nicolas,  Coustou,  Falconet  etc.  In  the  next  are  the 
busts  of  Washington,  Franklin,  and  Voltaire.  In  the 
next  are  two  groups  of  Cupid  and  Psyche,  the  soldier 
of  Marathon,  then  Mercury,  Jeanne  d'Arc,  and  Sap- 
pho, Psyche  and  others  which  are  all  very  fine  works 
of  art. 

The  museum  of  engravings  is  in  the  south  wing  of 
the  Louvre.  The  first  collection  was  made  by  Louis 
XIV.  who  ordered  engravings  to  be  made  of  his  pal- 
ace and  gardens,  and  this  collection  was  increased  by 
his  successors  and  by  the  first  Republic.  Copies  of 
these  engravings  can  be  bought  at  reasonable  prices. 
The  northeasten  and  easten  portion  of  the  ground 
floor  is  occupied  by  Phoenician,  Assyrian,  and  Greek 
antiquities.  The  Salle  Chretienne  is  most  interesting 
in  memorials,  inscriptions  and  various  monuments 
connected  with  the  first  centuries  of  the  spread  of 
Christianity  from  Rome,  Greece  and  Asia  Minor. 

The  sarcophagus  of  Livia  Primitiva,  from,  Rome  is 
one  of  the  most  ancient  memorials  of  Christian  times. 
In  the  next  are  a  number  of  antiquities  connected 
with  the  Jews  and  Palestine;  the  sarcophagi  from  the 
Tombs  of  the  Kings;  a  monument  of  Herod;  a 


JEWISH    ANTIQUITIES.  59 

Phoenician  inscription  recording  the  war  of  the  Moa- 
bites  against  Israel  at  the  death  of  Ahab,  nearly  900 
years  before  the  Christian  era.  This  collection  has 
some  very  curious  and  ancient  Jewish  relics  in  the 
shape  of  coins,  pottery,  fragment  of  textile  tapet,  gold 
ornaments  and  other  objects. 


CHAPTER    X. 


THE    LOUVRE    PICTURE    GALLERIES. 

The  Louvre  Picture  Galleries  are  located  on  the 
first  floor.  On  the  staircase  are  some  fine  sculptures. 
At  the  head  of  the  staircase  is  a  splendid  collection 
given  to  the  nation  in  1870.  The  Dutch  and  French 
schools  of  the  18th.  century  are  well  represented. 
Various  Ostades  (Abraham  and  Isaac,  and  Gerard 
Dows)  are  here  to  be  seen.  Portrait  of  a  Young  Wo- 
man, Village  Festival;  a  portrait  of  Pietro  Mocenigo; 
a  Man  Drinking;  a  Man  Reading,  and  the  portrait  of 
Marie  de  Medicis,  with  the  Assembly  in  a  Park. 

In  the  next  room  are  many  pictures  by  French  ar- 
tists. Among  the  master-pieces  is  one  by  Gericoult. 
It  is  a  colossal  picture  representing  the  unhappy  sur- 
vivors of  the  shipwreck  of  the  French  frigate  La 


60  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

Meduse.  Those  who  escaped  from  the  frigate  were 
deserted  by  the  boats  while  on  a  raft,  and  the  greater 
number  perished.  There  are  many  other  pictures  by 
the  same  artist.  The  wounded  Cuirassier,  a  race  at 
Epson,  Officers  of  Mounted  Chasseurs  charging.  Here 
are  two  historic  pictures  illustrating  scenes  in  the 
history  of  the  great  Napoleon.  One  representing  the 
General  visiting  the  plague-stricken  soldiers  in  the 
hospital  at  Jaffa;  the  other  the  Emperor  on  the  bat- 
tle field  of  Eylau.  Also  in  this  hall  last  but  not  least 
is  the  one  representing  the  Education  of  Achilles  by 
the  Centaur  Chiron. 

In  the  next  apartment  we  find  some  splendid  treas- 
ures of  ancient  ornaments  in  goldsmith's  work,  and 
torques  and  necklaces,  ear-rings,  buckles,  finger-rings, 
bobkins  for  the  hair  etc.  In  the  center  case  are  three 
gold  crowns,  and  a  gilt  helmet  found  in  an  old  branch 
of  the  Seine;  also  specimens  of  metal  work  in  the 
Greek  and  other  style,  found  in  various  parts. 

Through  a  circular  vestibule,  the  center  being 
adorned  by  a  copy  of  an  ancient  vase  of  balsalt  in  the 
Vatican,  and  paved  with  mosaic  design  the  visitor 
reaches  the  Galerie  d'Apollou. 

In  this  splendid  gallery  the  chief  points  are  the 
two  great  compositions  under  the  arched  roof  at  each 
end  of  the  hall.  One  representing  the  Triumph  of 
Neptune  and  Amphitrite,  and  various  other  paintings 
that  adorn  the  ceiling  and  walls.  In  the  glass  cases 
placed  along  the  room  are  a  number  of  art  treasures, 
comprising  facsimiles  of  some  of  the  ancient  regalia 
of  France,  various  relics,  a  splendid  collection  of  vases 
in  rock  crystal,  jasper  and  other  valuable  stones;  a 


THE    ART    GALLERY.  61 

sceptre  and  sword  said  to  have  belonged  to  Charle- 
magne and  a  splendid  collection  of  emeralds. 

The  Salon  Carre  is  devoted  to  paintings  and  con- 
tains some  of  the  most  famous  and  valuable  pictures 
in  the  Louvre.  Among  them  are  the  Burial  of  Christ, 
Antiope  and  Jupiter,  Rape  of  Dejanira,  Apollo  and 
Marsyas,  King  Charles,  and  the  Feast  at  the  House 
of  Simon  the  Pharisee  by  Paul  Veronese. 

In  the  room  on  the  right  is  found  works  of  the  ear- 
ly Italian  school.  Among  them  are  Nativity,  group 
of  the  Virgin,  the  Infant  Jesus,  Saint  Joseph  and 
Saint  Catherine,  the  Holy  Family,  and  the  Adoration 
of  the  Magi. 

In  the  gallery  next  to  this  will  be  found  the  paint- 
ings, partly  in  an  allegorical  manner,  historical  events 
in  the  life  of  the  Queen  and  her  young  son  Louis 
XIII.,  the  Flight  into  Egypt,  the  Triumph  of  Reli- 
gion, the  County  Fair,  the  Dutch  School  and  some 
fine  specimens  of  the  artist  Teniers.  There  are  many 
of  the  richest  works  in  this  gallery. 

Salons  Francais  is  a  series  of  rooms  devoted  to 
paintings  of  the  French  school.  The  Martyrdom  of 
Saint  Denis  of  the  fourteenth  century,  and  some 
paintings  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  centuries. 

The  second  hall  is  devoted  to  a  series  of  pictures 
painted  for  the  Chartreux  convent.  The  fifth  hall 
contains  some  works  by  English  artists;  such  as  Cot- 
tage Scenes,  the  Rainbow,  A  Lady  in  White,  a  por- 
trait piece,  and  many  others  including  portraits,  land- 
scapes, and  historical  pieces. 

The  next  hall  contains  some  well  known  historical 
pictures  such  as  Belisarius  and  Horatii. 


62  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  court-yard  are  a  series  of 
rooms  devoted  to  a  collection  of  sketches  and  draw- 
ings by  various  painters  of  the  old  masters,  of  the 
Italian  masters,  and  a  series  of  cartoons  representing 
the  Triumph  of  Scipio.  In  the  third  and  fourth 
rooms  there  are  a  large  collection  of  drawings  by  the 
Spanish  painters.  In  the  fifth,  drawings  of  the  Flem- 
ish, Gorman,  and  Dutch  schools,  including  those  of 
the  best  masters. 

All  the  other  rooms  up  to  fourteen  have  magnifi- 
cent exhibits  and  any  one  can  spend  all  the  time  they 
may  have  at  their  command  and  never  think  that  it 
has  been  squandered. 

In  the  Pastels  the  principal  object  are  bronzes,  or- 
naments and  jewellery,  caskets,  and  a  large  collection 
of  porcelain. 

In  the  Musees  is  a  magnificent  collection  of  pottery 
bronze,  glass,  statuettes  in  ivory,  bronze  and  wood. 

In  the  Musees  des  Souveriains,  are  the  royal  apart- 
ments occupied  by  the  kings  from  Henri  II  to  Louis 
XIII — a  term  of  over  a  hundred  years,  and  the  decor- 
ations are  exceeding!}'  curious. 

It  was  in  one  of  these  rooms  that  Henri  IV.  expired 
after  having  been  mortally  wounded  by  the  knife  of 
Kavaillac.  In  the  north  west  corner  are  models  of 
ships  of  various  periods  and  implements  and  arms  of 
savage  nations.  Here  is  a  model  of  the  Suez  Canal, 
and  many  rare  drawings  and  sketches. 

The  church  of  St.  Germain  is  another  monument 
of  mediaeval  Paris,  and  interesting  from  its  archi- 
tecture and  its  historical  associations.  It  dates  back 
to  the  twelfth  century. 


SAINT    BARTHOLOMEW'S    DAY.  63 

The  bell  tower  is  of  the  twelfth  century,  and  some 
of  the  statues  are  of  this  date,  but  the  statue  of  St. 
Michael  that  crowns  the  edifice  is  of  later  date.  His- 
torically this  church  will  alwaj^s  be  noted  for  the  fact 
that  from  its  tower  was  given  the  signal  for  the  hor- 
rible massacre  of  the  Huguenots  on  St.  Bartholemew's 
day,  the  24th.  of  August  1572. 

In  Paris  there  was  not  less  than  15,000  persons  who 
were  massacred,  and  in  France  it  is  thought  they 
numbered  over  100,000  persons. 

The  interior  of  the  choir  is  of  the  thirteenth  centu- 
ry, the  nave,  transepts  and  chapels  of  the  fifteenth. 
There  is  a  Holy  water  font  designed  by  Madame  de 
Lamartine. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  Cemetery  of  Pere  la 
Chaise.  These  grounds  are  situated  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  city.  There  are  nineteen  burial-grounds 
in  the  city  of  Paris,  and  this  is  the  place  of  interment 
of  most  of  the  celebrities  who  die  in  the  city  of  Paris. 
The  funerals  from  the  most  magnificent  to  the  hum- 
blest are  furnished  at  fixed  prices  by  a  company  of 
undertakers.  These  grounds  were  laid  out  in  1804. 
The  land  formerly  belonged  to  the  Order  of  Jesuits, 
and  the  confessor  of  Louis  XIV.  had  his  country 
house  on  these  grounds.  The  cemetery  is  open  every 
day  from  7  A.M.  until  6  P.M.  to  all  who  may  wish  to 
visit  the  grounds. 

The  general  division  of  the  vast  cemetry  is  into 
broad  parallel  avenues,  with  lateral  ones,  and  narrow 
paths  diverging  from  them.  The  area  of  the  grounds 
is  about  110  acres,  and  all  the  principal  parks  are 
now  filled.  It  is  the  most  extravagant  cemetery  in 


64  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

the  city,  and  we  saw  more  expensive  tombs  and  mon- 
uments than  we  ever  saw  in  all  the  grounds  that  we 
have  ever  visited. 

Just  within  the  principal  entrance  there  is  a  fine 
monument  by  Bartholome.  It  is  dedicated  simply 
"To  the  Dead,"  and  tells  its  own  story.  We  would 
be  glad  to  give  a  description  of  this  imposing  struct- 
ure, but  we  simply  cannot;  our  imagination  cannot 
portray  anything  half  so  solemn  as  these  statues  pre- 
sent to  the  beholder.  But  we  may  say  this,  that  the 
group  represents  the  morn  and  evening  of  human 
life,  and  on  the  features  of  each  statue  we  can  see  the 
joys  and  sorrows  that  humanity  must  endure.  There 
is  the  birth,  the  early  life,  the  manhood,  and  the  old 
age.  There  is  the  smiles  of  childhood,  the  joys  of 
early  life,  the  happiness  of  manhood,  and  the  decay 
and  sorrow  of  old  age.  It  presents  the  cradle  and  the 
grave.  It  gives  us  the  smiles  which  we  usually  see 
at  birth  and  the  sorrow  we  see  at  death. 

We  think  the  artist  has  drawn  far  too  strongly 
upon  the  separation.  We  believe  man  should  be  ready 
at  all  times  for  the  call,  and  if  there  is  a  continued 
life,  death  in  this  life  is  only  a  birth  into  another. 
Then  if  it  is  a  joy  to  be  born  into  this  life,  and  all 
seem  to  be  happj^,  why  should  we  feel  sad  over  the 
second  birth,  which  must  be  death  if  we  would  have 
this  second  life? 

There  are  many  distinguished  men  buried  here. 
Arago  the  astronomer,  Auber  the  composer,  Rollin  the 
republican  leader  of  1848,  Dantan  the  artist,  Musset 
the  poet,  Grouchy  the  soldier,  Rachel  the  actor,  Theirs 
the  Statesman,  and  Gerecault  the  painter. 


CITY    OP    THE    DEAD.  t)0 

In  the  round  cresent  shaped  area  are  several  great 
musical  composers.  In  the  Grand  Rond  is  Perier  the 
financier  and  stateman.  Here  is  the  tomb  of  Champ- 
ollim  the  great  Egyptian  traveller  and  antiquarian. 
Admiral  Sir  Sidney  Smith  a  very  distinguished  Eng- 
lishman. Which  ever  way  we  may  turn  in  this  city 
of  the  dead  we  come  upon  names  of  celebrities  in  war, 
politics,  art,  science,  literature  and  commerce. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

THE   EXPOSITION    BUILDINGS. 

In  entering  at  Pont  d'lena  we  have  the  pavilions 
and  palaces  of  some  of  the  Oriental  and  African  pow- 
ers. Just  in  front  of  us  and  quite  high  up  on  the  hill 
we  have  the  beautiful  palace  Trocadero,  and  on  the 
left  we  have  the  colonies  of  France,  while  Algeria  oc- 
cupies the  central  part  facing  the  Eiffel  tower. 

The  buildings  around  a  central  pavilion  contain 
priceless  treasures  of  native  art.  The  exterior  is 
handsome,  but  the  interior  is  far  more  beautiful. 
The  far  East  has  sent  a  brilliant  contribution  to  the 
Fair.  The  Burmese  and  other  provinces  have  sent 
rare  and  beautiful  specimens  of  their  works,  and  es- 
pecially the  extraordinary  carpets,  which  can  be  seen. 

The  section  belonging  to  Japan,  in  which  there  is  a 


66  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

collection  of  ancient  Japanese  art,  the  native  Bazaar, 
a  Tea  House,  and  a  kind  of  a  Cafe,  are  well  worth  a 
visit. 

The  Egyptian  Building  is  very  interesting,  and  al- 
so the  Portuguese  Pavilion.  Then  conies  the  Trans- 
vaal and  the  Boer  Farm,  which  excites  a  great  deal 
of  curiosity.  The  official  edifice  is  pretty,  brilliant 
with  much  gilding,  and  gay  with  many  banners  and 
the  low  square  building  near  it  is  in  strong  contrast 
to  its  light  and  graceful  outlines.  The  Boer  Farm 
House  is  far  from  being  an  imposing  specimen  of 
architecture,  with  its  rough  stone  pillars,  its  thatched 
roof,  and  small  windows. 

Next  we  visit  the  section  of  the  Dutch  Indies, 
which  is  almost  150  feet  long.  Here  we  see  the  fa- 
mous Temple  of  Tandji-Sari  an  edifice  of  immense 
size,  profusely  ornamented  with  sculptures  which  is 
said  to  have  come  from  the  original  building  in  India. 
This  is  a  remarkable  example  of  native  architecture 
in  its  utmost  purity,  and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
buildings  of  the  Exhibition.  The  other  houses  repre- 
sent native  dwellings  in  the  island  of  Sumatra. 

Near  here  we  find  the  Chinese  section,  composed  of 
two  Palaces.  The  roof  of  the  larger  one  is  very  re- 
markable; and  the  smaller  building  is  so  finely  carv- 
ed, so  beautifully  sculptured  that  it  looks  fragile. 

In  front  of  China  is  Russian  Asia  or  Siberia.  Eve- 
rything here  is  curious.  A  train  on  the  Siberian 
railway  cars  as  it  will  be  when  complete. 

Oar  next  stopping  point  is  Belguim.  The  exhibits 
here  are  fine  but  not  so  extended  as  many  others.  We 
have  now  arrived  at  the  magnificent  Palace  of  the 


THE    EXPOSITION    BUILDINGS.  67 

Trocadero.  Standing  on  the  portico  we  look  down 
upon  the  foot  of  the  Eiffel  Tower  and  the  Champ  de 
Mars  beyond,  with  the  Palace  of  Electricity  and  the 
Chateau  d'Eau. 

The  whole  view  is  beautiful,  but  before  we  leave 
this  part  of  the  grounds  we  wish  to  visit  the  French 
Colonies. 

We  first  enter  the  building  of  the  New  Caledonia 
where  we  get  a  plan  of  that  colony.  In  the  Cambo- 
gian  part  of  the  section  there  is  a  theatre. 

The  mountain  which  looms  so  conspicuously  is  the 
mountain  of  Pnom-Penk.  In  entering  the  official 
part  designated  as  Indo-China,  we  find  the  pavilion 
devoted  to  Tonkin,  a  Chinese  deity. 

Across  the  avenue  we  find  the  exhibit  Cote  d'Loir, 
and  beyond  is  Occidental  Africa,  with  building  erect- 
ed by  Dahomey.  The  other  pavilions  are  devoted  to 
Senegal  and  the  Soudan. 

Next  comes  Tunis,  which  occupies  4,000  square 
metres,  and  a  more  picturesque  spot  does  not  exist  in 
the  Exhibition. 

Here  we  have  a  real  Eastern  town,  with  bazaars 
and  shops  where  native  workmen  ply  their  different 
trades.  In  these  grounds  we  find  a  resturant  where 
they  serve  strange  mixtures  of  French  and  native 
cookery  which  possess  novelty  if  nothing  more.  The 
best  monuments  of  Tunis,  are  a  private  dwelling- 
house,  the  famous  cafe  of  Sidi-Abou-Said,  two 
mosques,  one  of  Kef,  the  other  of  Kairouan,  a  gate- 
way of  Tunis  and  another  of  Louss.  The  interior  is 
occupied  by  a  garden  and  in  the  center  is  a  Moorish 
cafe.  The  hillside  is  devoted  to  an  agricultural 


68  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

exhibition,  and  below  they   have   a   real    wine-cellar. 

The  official  palace  is  purely  Arabic  in  style.  A- 
bove,  a  minaret  rears  its  graceful  height  and  is  beau- 
tifully decorated  with  porcelain.  The  exhibits  com- 
prise branches  of  every  industry  of  the  country  as 
well  as  art.  The  house  itself  is  furnished  in  perfect 
Eastern  style,  and  we  are  in  the  Orient  with  its 
domes,  narrow  winding  steets,  and  its  minarets. 

Spain  under  the  Moors  is  very  interesting,  but  is  a 
private  enterprise.  A  visit  to  Madagascar.  A  pano- 
rama representing  the  capture  of  Tananarive,  and  a 
diorama  of  Marchand  crossing  the  rapids  of  Bangui 
are  the  principal  features,  and  it  is  very  popular. 

On  the  Champ  de  Mars  not  far  from  the  Eiffel  Tow- 
er is  the  Palace  of  Forests,  Hunting  and  Fisheries. 
It  is  a  large  and  beautiful  building,  about  350  feet 
long  and  75  feet  wide.  The  Navigation  Building  and 
lighthouse  with  its  powerful  system  of  lighting  is  well 
worth  a  visit. 

The  Celestial  Globe  or  Sphere  is  very  curious  and 
will  be  one  of  the  novelties  of  the  show.  It  is  about 
80  feet  in  diameter,  and  is  crowned  by  a  terrace  120 
feet  above  the  ground.  It  is  decorated  with  astro- 
nomical and  mythological  figures.  But  it  is  not  fin- 
ished yet  and  will  not  be  before  the  first  to  the  mid- 
dle of  July. 

The  Tyrolian  Pavilion  is  very  pretty.  The  Trans- 
atlantic Panorama,  and  the  Meorama  are  famous  for 
their  exact  representations. 

In  the  Place  de  1'Opique  we  find  the  dome  is  dec- 
orated with  the  twelve  signs  of  the  Zodiac.  In  this 
hall  the  huge  Siderastat  is  placed.  This  gigantic 


THE    EXPOSITION    BUILDINGS.  69 

instrument  weighs  45  tons,  the  object  glass  is  about 
50  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  tube  measures  200  feet. 
There  are  two  object  glasses,  eaeh  of  which  weighs 
1,600  pounds.  The  idea  originated  with  an  English- 
man by  the  name  of  Brown.  The  next  room  is  Tele- 
scope Hull.  In  here  you  can  get  a  view  of  the  moon 
and  stars  as  they  appear  at  a  distance  of  a  mile. 

The  Palace  of  Electricity  is  one  of  the  buildings 
built  for  the  Exhibition  of  1889,  with  a  new  frontal 
structure  erected  several  feet  taller  than  the  old 
building  and  forming  a  monumental  entry,  which 
when  lighted  with  its  thousands  of  incandescent  and 
arc  lamps,  eclipse  anything  of  the  kind  ever  attempt- 
ed, and  may  be  characterised  as  a  gorgeous  gateway 
worthy  of  fairj'land, 

The  building  next  in  front  is  so  arranged  that  it 
adds  to  both.  To  attempt  to  describe  these  wonder- 
ful structures  seem  impossible,  as  words  are  inade- 
quate to  give  an  idea  of  their  grandeur  and  figures 
seem  strangly  out  of  place  with  the  fairy  like  specta- 
cle before  us. 

On  either  side  of  these  triumphs  of  architectural 
art  are  the  two  buildings  devoted  to  Mechanical  Ex- 
hibits, and  at  the  back  we  see  the  gigantic  remains 
of  the  building  erected  for  the  former  fair.  This 
structure  is  of  a  light  cream  color  which  gives  to  the 
great  building  a  lightness,  we  may  even  say  an  airi- 
ness, which  is  quite  remarkable  and  very  beautiful. 

The  exhibition  of  Agriculture  and  Alimentation 
consist,  in  the  former,  principally  of  immense  bou- 
quets of  flowers,  and  in  the  latter  fruits  of  all  kinds 
and  in  all  forms  which  the  imagination  can  conceive. 


70  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

Just  outside  the  grounds  at  this  point  is  the  Swiss 
Village  which  might  be  called  Switzerland  itself,  as 
it  represents  no  particular  canton,  but  is  a  combina- 
tion of  mamr  towns.  The  hills  appear  like  mount- 
ains, the  precipices  most  awe-inspiring,  and  there  is 
a  cascade  ending  in  a  stream  which  is  absolutely  true 
to  life. 

The  Palace  of  Tissues,Threads  and  Clothing  is  well 
represented  and  is  a  part  of  the  Palace  of  Civil  En- 
gineering. 

The  Palace  of  Mines  and  Metals  is  a  fine  structure, 
and  the  exhibits  are  as  varied  as  the  products  which 
they  represent.  All  the  metals  that  the  mind  can 
conceive  may  be  seen  here  in  their  native  purity. 

Near  by  is  the  Palace  Lumineux.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  extraordinary  edifices  imaginable,  for  every- 
thing in  it,  carpets,  curtains,  etc.  are  made  of  glass. 

The  Pavilion  for  the  Automobile  is  well  filled  with 
the  latest  and  best. 

Near  this  is  the  Tour  de  Monde.  This  edifice  is 
one  of  great  attraction,  and  there  are  many  fine 
painting  on  exhibition,  and  should  be  seen  to  be  ap- 
preciated. 

We  now  pass  on  to  the  Champs  Elysees.  Here  is 
the  Palace  of  National  Manufactures.  In  these  build- 
ings we  find  first,  the  tapestries,  then  crystal  and 
glass,  heating  and  ventilation,  electric  lighting,  jew- 
elry, bronzes,  forged  iron,  wall-paper,  etc.  These  are 
all  of  French  manufacture.  They  are  varied  and 
very  fine. 

The  exhibition  of  the  art  of  Brellana  is  wonderful 
and  is  known  as  Bart  Amorecain.  The  fountain  of 


EXHIBITION    BUILDINGS.  71 

Saint  Barbe,  the  spire  of  the  church  of  St.  Jean  du 
Doigt,  and  a  collouade  of  a  cloister  at  Quimper  are 
the  most  remarkable  items-.  There  is  a  fine  collection 
of  embroidery,  and  a  house  from  Gascony;  also  the 
furnace  exhibit  from  Sevres. 

The  Palace  of  House  Decoration  is  represented  by 
Belgium,  Russia,  Germany,  United  States,  Great 
Britain,  Italy,  Denmark,  Hungary,  Austria  and  Japan. 

The  Revolving  Road  is  also  here.  It  consists  of 
two  platforms  of  different  degrees  of  speed.  The 
lower  one  goes  at  the  rate  of  four  kilometres  an  hour, 
and  the  higher  one  at  just  double  the  speed.  These 
platforms  are  raised  seven  metres  above  the  ground. 
There  are  twelve  stations  in  the  two  miles  of  track, 
and  the  views  obtained  on  the  journey  are  very  fine, 
and  the  mode  of  traveling  from  part  of  the  grounds 
is  very  pleasing  and  quite  convenient. 

The  Electric  Railroad  follows  exactly  the  same 
route  but  the  speed  is  more  than  twice  as  fast  and  to 
some  much  more  pleasing,  as  it  is  sometimes  twenty 
feet  above  ground,  then  on  a  level,  and  then  the  way 
becomes  subterranean. 

The  Palaces  of  the  Army  and  Navy  are  near  here. 
The  Vamy  contains  among  other  interesting  things  a 
collection  of  military  Souvenirs  from  the  Ministry 
of  War. 

Here  we  see  the  foreign  exhibits  of  engines  of  war 
in  general,  as  well  as  the  exhibits  of  the  great  factory 
of  Creusot.  The  Prussian  war  exhibits  are  particu- 
larly interesting.  Russia,  Germany,  Italy,  Great 
Britain,  Belgian,  Austrian,  Portuguese,  Hungarian 
and  the  United  States,  are  all  fully  represented. 


72  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

The  Hygiene  Exhibition  is  of  great  interest  to  the 
people  and  is  complete  in  its  several  departments 

In  the  Pavilion  of  the  Press  we  find  a  postal  bureau, 
a  telegraphic  and  telephonic  department,  and  they  are 
each  well  nigh  perfect  in  their  arrangement. 

The  Pavilion  of  Mexico  is  one  of  the  most  original 
buildings  of  the  Fair. 

The  Street  of  the  Nations  is  along  the  bank  of  the 
river  and  many  of  the  Palaces  of  the  great  powers  are 
erected  on  the  very  edge.  Some  of  these  buildings 
are  used  to  exhibit  the  products  of  the  countries  they 
represent,  but  the  more  important  nations  have  separ- 
ate sections  in  other  buildings  for  their  exhibits,  and 
these  Palaces  are  simply  the  headquarters  of  the  com- 
missioners. 

The  Palace  of  Servia  and  the  Palace  of  Greece 
built  in  nearly  the  same  style,  both  being  in  Grecian 
form. 

The  Palace  of  Sweden  is  exceedingly  picturesque 
and  consists  of  a  high  tower  flanked  by  four  lesser 
ones  with  a  sort  of  pavilion  at  the  back  crowned  by  a 
cupola. 

The  main  structure  is  somewhat  low,  and  the  whole 
building  is  trimmed  like  a  lady's  hat,  with  garlands 
of  artificial  flowers  which  look  like  festoons  of  light  at 
night.  One  peculiarity  of  this  house  is  that  it  is  con- 
structed entirely  of  wood,  painted  and  varnished  in 
the  most  gorgeous  colors,  typical  of  the  people's  taste. 

The  pavilion  of  Monoca  represents  a  villa  in  the 
south  of  France,  and  contains  the  whole  exhibit  of 
that  State. 

Roumania   and  Bulgaria  are  very  pretty,  with  their 


PALACES    OF    DIFFERENT     NATIONS.  73 

Byzantine  style,  and  inverted  tulips  and  fantastic  fa- 
cades, which  need  to  be  seen  to  be  fully  realized. 

The  Palace  of  Spain  is  a  conglomeration  of  all  the 
celebrated  buildings  of  the  country.  The  Moorish 
style  is  most  perceptible.  The  Patio  with  its  fountain 
is  a  feature  of  the  construction,  the  facades  are  like 
those  of  the  Aleazor  built  by  Charles  Quint  in  the  six- 
teenth century.  There  is  much  carving  on  the  out- 
side, and  within,  the  rare  collections  both  public  and 
private,  makes  this  building  one  of  the  most  interes- 
ting of  the  foreign  palaces. 

The  Palace  of  Germany  is  a  reproduction  of  the 
style  of  the  sixteenth  century.  It  has  a  beautiful  bel- 
fry, graceful  gables,  and  bell-shaped  towers.  The 
roof  is  covered  with  painted  tiles,  and  the  walls  are 
decorated  with  French  paintings. 

The  Pavilion  of  Great  Britain  is  a  gem  of  this 
architectural  crown.  The  interior  is  furnished  by 
well  known  English  firms.  A  room  was  decorated 
by  the  city  of  Bath.  The  stained  glass  windows  are 
the  work  of  Smith  and  Wells,  two  Glasgow  firms.  The 
piano  was  constructed  by  Messrs.  Broad  wood,  and 
the  carpets  were  provided  by  Croesley  and  Sons. 

There  is  a  complete  fire  department  installed  in  the 
basement.  The  interior  represents  an  English  manor 
house  with  modern  furnishings. 

The  upper  story  is  remarkable  for  its  hall  which  is 
18  feet  wide  by  81  feet  long.  It  has  a  splendid  col- 
lection loaned  by  the  Prince  of  Wales.  The  Prince 
being  President  of  the  Royal  Commission. 

The  Chalet  of  Norway,  and  the  Palace  Belgium  are 
good  specimens  of  the  architecture  of  the  countries. 


74 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


Th  Pavilion  of  Finland  is  the  only  building  repre- 
senting Russia,  and  is  a  remarkable  building  on  ac- 
count of  its  originality. 

The  Duchy  of  Luxemburg  is  in  the  Flemish  style 
and  picturesque  in  the  extreme. 

The  Palace  of  Persia  is  in  the  real  oriental  style 
with  all  the  distinctive  features  of  the  country  it  rep- 
resents. The  remarkable  collection  of  Persian  curi- 
osities being  very  unique.  Then  comes  Peru,  Portu- 
gal and  Denmark.  All  have  interesting  exhibits, 
also  has  Hungary. 

A  visit  should  be  made  to  the  buildings  erected  bjr 
Boenia  and  Herzegovia,  they  are  connected  by  a  sub- 
terranean passage.  It  is  impossible  to  give  a  full  de- 
scription of  these  buildings  as  the}T  alone  form  a 
good  exhibition. 

The  Pavilion  of  Austria  shows  to  a  disadvantage 
on  account  of  it  being  near  to  its  more  stately  neigh- 
bors. The  facade  is  a  reproduction  of  a  celebrated 
palace  of  Vienna,  and  the  success  with  which  solid 
masonry  has  been  imitated  with  composite  material 
is  worthy  of  notice. 

The  Pavilion  of  the  United  States  was  modeled  af- 
ter the  Capitol  at  Washington.  All  the  material  en- 
tering into  the  construction  was  of  American  origin. 
It-  is  used  simply  as  head-quarters  of  the  American 
Commissioners  and  the  people  of  the  United  States. 

The  Pavilion  of  Turkey  is  copied  from  the  princi- 
pal mosques  of  Constantinople,  and  the  result  is  a 
typical  Oriental  Palace  of  much  artistic  merit.  Italy's 
exhibit  is  a  reproduction  of  the  Church  of  St.  Mark. 
The  effect  is  picturesque. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


THE    EIFFEL   TOWER. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  will  never  see  the  Tow- 
er, and  those  who  have  seen  it  and  do  not  contem- 
plate making  an  ascent,  allow  us  to  drive  round  to  the 
front  of  it,  and  then  walk  under  and  around  it  in  order 
to  form  some  idea  of  its  colossal  proportions. 

The  .Eiffel  Tower  is  one  of  the  modern  wonders  of 
the  world.  The  idea  of  building  a  tower  a  thousand 
feet  high  has  been  mooted  time  and  again,  and  was 
left  for  M.  Eiffel  to  carry  out  the  design.  The  Tower 
forms  a  most  imposing  object.  Its  dimensions  are 
bewildering.  Fancy  three  monuments  like  Bunker 
Hill's  or  five  of  London's  highest  towers,  placed  one 
on  top  of  another,  and  you  have  the  height  of  the 
Eiffel  Tower. 

The  other  particulars  of  the  giant  are  as  follows: 
The  basis  of  this  tower  covers  an  area  of  about  four 
acres  of  ground,  being  about  400  feet  on  each  side  of 
a  square.  The  Tower  is  divided  into  three  stories. 
On  the  first  and  second  stories,  cafes  have  been  es- 
tablished. A  glass  cupola,  surmounted  by  a  power- 
ful electric  light,  forms  the  apex  of  the  third  story; 
and  there  are  intermediate  floors  as  resting  places  be- 
tween the  second  and  third  stories.  The  lightning  pro- 
tector stands  a  thousand  feet  above  the  ground.  75 


76  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  first  floor  is  at  an  elevation  of  about  190  feet 
above  the  ground.  The  second  about  380  feet.  The 
third  floor  906  feet  above  the  ground. 

To  judge  of  the  tower  from  an  architectural  and 
picturesque  point  of  view  is  difficult,  from  the  reason 
that  nothing  else  exists  with  which  it  can  be  compar- 
ed. It  is  only  when  seen  from  a  distance,  and  when 
compared  with  the  domes  and  spires,  and  the  lofty 
houses  of  Paris,  that  one  can  realize  the  effect  of  its 
phenomenal  altitude. 

It  is  a  work  constructed  with  the  most  extraordina- 
ry ingenuity,  and  its  lines  convey  grace  in  its  con- 
struction. The  base  of  the  tower  consists  of  four 
great  piers,  which  bear  the  names  of  the  cardinal 
points  of  the  compass,  and  upon  these  the  stability  of 
the  tower  is  attributable. 

There  is  but  little  oscillation  though  it  has  this 
vast  height.  There  is  an  elaborate  system  used  for 
ascension.  The  lifts  on  the  lower  story  are  construct- 
ed to  contain  a  hundred  persons;  those  on  the  second 
story,  built  on  the  Otis  63"stem,  will  hold  fifty  persons 
each;  beyond  this  to  the  third,  twenty-five  to  each  car. 
Above  the  upper  platform  is  a  room  for  scientific 
purposes.  M.  Eiffel  thought  the  tower  could  be  used 
for  meteorological  observations,  and  that  currents 
could  be  studied  from  the  points  of  science  and  hy- 
giene, as  well  as  the  chemical  point  of  view,  the 
amount  of  electricity  and  moisture  it  contained. 

M.  Eiffel  thought  it  was  a  laboratory  such  as  never 
until  now  had  been  at  the  disposal  of  science. 

The  Tower  will  be  used  in  case  of  war  as  a  means 
of  obtaining  accurate  observations  of  the  foe. 


THE    TOMB    OF     NAPOLEON.  77 

JP* 

The  sensation  of  ascending  this  tower  is  said  to  be 
varied.  To  some,  after  the  height  of  five  hundred 
feet  has  been  reached,  a  sense  of  dizziness  is  expe- 
rienced especially  if  the  person  looks  toward  the 
ground;  while  others  are  conscious  that  the  height 
has  changed  the  atmosphere  and  causes  an  extra  ef- 
fort in  breathing. 

The  Tomb  of  Napoleon  is  a  wonderful  palace.  The 
dome  forms  in  itself  a  separate  church,  and  was 
erected  by  the  famous  architect  Mansart  in  1706.  The 
handsome  exterior  elevation  is  adorned  with  Doric 
and  Corinthian  columns,  and  approached  by  a  broad 
flight  of  steps.  Statues  representing  Justice,  Tem- 
perance, Prudence  and  Strength,  and  effigies  of 
Charlesmagne  and  St.  Louis,  add  to  its  appearance. 
The  height  of  the  building  to  the  summit  of  the  cross 
is  above  340  feet,  and  the  diameter  of  the  dome  86 
feet.  The  floor  displays  a  handsome  mosaic  design 
of  the  time  Louis  XIV.  In  the  chapels  around  the 
dome  are  the  tombs  of  two  members  of  the  Bonaparte 
family;  Joseph,  king  of  Spain,  and  Jerome  the  Em- 
poror's  youngest  brother,  once  king  of  Westphalia. 

From  the  floor  of  the  church  by  leaning  over  a  bal- 
ustrade one  can  look  down  into  the  open  crypt,  20 
feet  deep  and  36  feet  in  diameter;  and  here  ex- 
actly beneath  the  lofty  dome  in  a  sarcophagus  of  red 
Finland  granite,  the  gift  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas  of 
Russia,  are  deposited  the  remains  of  the  great  Na- 
poleon. It  was  in  1840,  nineteen  years  after  his 
death,  that  the  Emperor's  remains  were  brought  to 
France  by  a  sou  of  King  Louis  Philippe,  in  the  ful- 
fillment of  the  dead  Hero's  wish. 


78  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

"I  desire  that  my  ashes  repose  on  the  borders  of 
the  Seine,  in  the  midst  of  the  French  people  whom  I 
have  loved  so  well." 

As  a  work  of  art,  the  Emperor's  tomb  is  grand 
and  solemn,  and  in  keeping  with  the  circumstances. 

Twelve  colossal  figures,  ten  feet  or  more  in  height, 
representing  the  chief  victories  won  by  the  Emperor, 
surround  the  gallery  and  contemplate  the  sarcopha- 
gus. They,  are  some  of  the  best  works  of  Pradier. 
Between  the  statues  are  placed  fifty- four  flags  arrang- 
ed in  six  trophies.  They  were  taken  in  battle.  The 
pavement  of  the  crypt  is  mosaic.  The  dome  looking 
down  upon  the  crypt,  is  divided  into  two  sections,  the 
lower  containing  in  its  twelve  compartments,  statues 
of  the  twelve  Apostles,  and  the  higher  inside  the  cu- 
pola, St.  Louis  offering  to  the  Saviour  the  sword  with 
which  he  had  fought  for  the  Christian  faith. 

This  Tomb  is  one  of  the  most  impressive  sights  of 
Paris,  and  should  not  be  omitted. 

The  Hotel  des  Invalides.  is  a  great  institution,  and 
one  of  the  most  interesting  sights  of  Paris.  It  was 
founded  by  Louis  XIV.  in  1670,  and  the  Grand  Mon- 
arch was  the  one  most  called  upon  by  right  and  jus- 
tice to  do  something  for  the  disabled  military,  con- 
sidering the  vast  quantity  of  "food  for  powder"  he 
used  up  during  his  reign. 

Entering  from  the  Elplanade  }'ou  find  yourself  in 
the  outer  court,  and  notice  the  fourteen  guns  and 
mortars  used  for  firing  salutes.  Here  is  a  fine  statue 
of  Prince  Eugene  in  front  of  the  principal  facade, 
which  is  about  650  feet  in  length  and  three  stories 
high.  It  contains  133  windows.  Over  the  chief 


THE     HOTEL    DBS    INVALIDES.  79 

entrance  in  the  center  is  a  statue  of  Louis  XIV.  on 
horseback  accompanied  by  Justice  and  Prudence. 
The  western  side  of  the  front  half  is  occupied  by 
the  Museum  of  Arms  and  Armors.  Every  part  of 
this  enormous  structure  is  utilized  though  none  of  its 
halls  seem  to  be  over  crowded.  The  location  of  each 
article  has  been  studied  and  placed  to  give  the  best 
and  most  pleasing  effect. 

In  the  Hall  of  Artillery  there  are  various  cannons, 
including  two  Spanish  pieces  from  Mexico.  There 
are  two  Halls  of  Armors  and  the  same  of  Artillery 
and  costumes  of  war,  and  a  superb  collection  of  suits 
of  armor  from  the  15th.  and  17th.  centuries,  and 
shields,  helmets  and  coats  of  mail  from  the  Middle 
Ages  downwards.  Some  are  inlaid,  and  are  high  art 
specimens.  In  these  halls  the  exhibits  are  plainly 
labeled.  In  a  hall  joining  this  will  be  found  a  collec- 
tion of  guns  and  pistols,  ornamented  with  diamonds 
and  other  precious  stones.  There  is  in  these  halls  a 
large  number  of  flags  taken  from  various  nations  du- 
ring the  wars  from  Louis  XIV.  to  the  fall  of  Napol- 
eon first.  The  valuable  collection  of  arms  and  flags 
made  by  Napoleon  third  are  in  this  Hall. 

The  valuable  collection  of  Colonel  le  Clirc,  consist- 
ing of  model  figures,  representing  various  savage 
types  of  humanity  are  in  those  galleries,  and  the 
walls  are  hung  with  weapons,  horse-saddles  and  har- 
ness. In  a  hall  above  this  is  a  collection  of  the  war 
panoply  of  all  ages,  from  the  prehistoric  times  of 
flint  and  bronze  weapons,  down  to  the  middle  ages 
and  modern  times. 

There     are   among   this   collection   many   oriental 


80  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

weapons  from  China.  Some  of  them  are  historic,such 
as  wooden  shafts,  firearms,  and  later  the  sword  of 
Maximilian  II.,  Napoleon,  and  others,  with  modern 
hemlets  and  crossbows.  These  curiosities  are  all 
clearly  labeled  and  their  nature  may  be  readily  un- 
derstood by  all. 

On  the  first  floor  of  the  central  pavilion  is  the  libra- 
ry which  consists  of  60,000  volumus  including  some 
very  curious  manuscripts.  In  a  hall  joining  these 
are  portraits  of  many  of  Napoleon's  renowned  gene- 
rals, and  various  relics  and  memorials  of  the  great 
Emperor. 

We  find  in  the  Saint  Louis  church  many  flags  and 
banners,  trophies  of  French  victories.  Many  marsh- 
als and  governors  have  monuments  in  this  church, 
among  them  General  Bertrand  who  was  with  the  Em- 
peror in  his  captivity  at  St.  Helena  and  remained 
faithful  to  him  till  his  death.  Here,  too,  are  deposit- 
ed the  heart  of  Vauban,  the  great  military  engineer, 
and  Madele  de  Sornbreuil,  who  in  the  Revolution 
drank  a  goblet  of  blood  as  a  price  of  her  father's  life. 

The  Chamber  of  Deputies.  This  is  where  the  leg- 
islative body  hold  their  meetings.  It  is  a  classical 
building  with  Corinthian  columns  and  a  sculptured 
pediment,  adorned  with  statues  of  Minerva,  Themis, 
and  other  mythological  personages,  symbolic  of  the 
majesty  and  beneficence  of  law  and  order.  The  hall 
where  the  sessions  are  held  is  a  handsome  semi-circle 
room  adorned  with  Ionic  columns,  and  in  the  throne- 
room  are  some  fine  paintings.  The  library  contains 
150,000  volumns. 

The  Palais  Royal  is  one  of  the  most  popular  edifices 


THE    PALAIS    ROYAL. 

of  Paris,  and  was  built  for  the  great  Cardinal  de 
Richelieu,  and  later  became  the  residence  of  the 
Dukes  of  Orleans.  It  was  partly  burnt  by  the  Com- 
munists but  later  was  restored  to  its  former  greatness. 

Not  far  from  here  is  the  Stock  Exchange  of  Paris, 
and  is  thought  the  most  noisy  place  in  Europe. 
The  hours  of  business  being  from  12  M.  until  3  P.  M. 
Visitors  may  ascend  the  staircase  on  the  left-hand 
side  and  look  down  upon  the  turbulent  scene. 

The  Bourse  is  built  in  classical  style,  being  an  im- 
itation of  the  temple  of  Vespers  in  Rome.  It  forms 
a  great  parallelogram  of  about  220  feet  long  by  135 
feet  broad,  and  100  feet  high.  The  exterior  is  adorn- 
ed with  sixty-six  Corinthian  columns,  and  is  ap- 
proached by  a  broad  flight  of  fifty  steps. 

The  Tuileries  Palace  was  the  residence  of  the  first 
Napoleon,  and  subsequently  by  the  kings  of  France. 

The  Communists  destroyed  nearly  the  whole  struct- 
ure, but  it  was  rebuilt  by  Lefuel  since  1870. 

Palace  du  Carrousel  was  built  by  Napoleon  first  as 
a  monument  of  his  victories  of  1805  and  1806.  The 
arch  of  Triomphe  the  grand  entrance  is  48  feet  high, 
63  feet  wide,  and  21  feet  deep,  and  is  profusely  adorn- 
ed with  sculpture  representing  the  wars  of  the  first 
Empire.  The  Statue  of  Gambetta  is  just  beyond  the 
Arc,  and  is  worthy  of  a  close  inspection,  as  it  is  a  na- 
tion's appreciative  memorial  to  this  Statesman. 

The  Opera  House  is  a  grand  edifice,  and  is  opened 
three  times  a  week.  The  high-class  seats  require 
that  ticket  holders  shall  present  themselves  in  dress 
suit.  All  seats  enable  the  holders  to  circulate  freely 
on  the  grand  staircase  and  waiting  rooms. 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

Near  here  is  the  Bastille.  It  was  built  by  Charles 
V.  in  1369  and  was  the  dreaded  state  prison,  in  which 
thousands  of  persons  who  had  offended  the  then  des- 
potic government  pined  away  and  died  unheeded  and 
forgotten.  When  the  walls  of  Paris  were  torn  down 
in  1670  the  Bastille  was  left  standing,  and  among  the 
prisoners  confined  there  was  the  mysterious  "Man 
with  the  Iron  mask,"  whose  identity  has  remained  one 
of  the  puzzles  of  history.  By  a  decree  of  the  Repub- 
lican Government  the  Bastille  was  torn  down  in 
about  1790  to  1800,  and  afterward  Louis  Philippe 
built  the  Column  Juillet  on  the  ground,  and  inaugura- 
ted it  in  1840.  It  is  154  feet  high  and  rests  on  a  base 
of  white  marble.  The  column  is  adorned  with  the 
names  of  over  600  combatants  who  fell  in  the  strug- 
gle of  the  27,  28,  and  29th.  of  July  1830,  who  died 
while  contending  for  the  liberty  of  France. 

The  Muses  Camavalet  was  built  in  1550,  and  the 
ornamentation  is  a  strange  mixture  of  ancient  and 
modern  art  over  a  period  of  300  years. 

The  first  Gallery  is  devoted  to  the  relics  of  the 
Gallo-R-oman  period  which  were  found  in  and  around 
Paris.  In  the  Hall  of  Tombs  we  find  a  fine  collection 
of  Sarcophagi  of  almost  prehistoric  times.  In  the 
cellar  we  find  those  dating  from  the  fourth  century. 
In  Halls  No.  1  and  No.  2,  there  are  collections  of 
bronze,  pottery,  and  monuments  from  the  Middle 
Ages,  and  from  the  Roman  Period. 

In  the  different  galleries  we  find  many  relics.  In 
one  there  is  a  fine  numismatic  collection,  and  some 
finely  carved  wood-work  dating  back  several  centu- 
ries. In  another  are  drums  and  flags,  military  ban- 


THE    DIFFERENT    GALLERIES. 

riers  and  pikes  which  were  carried  by  the  citizens  of 
that  early  day.  In  the  center  of  the  room  is  a  model 
of  the  famous  prison  carved  in  stone  from  its  walls. 
In  the  cabinet  is  a  lock  of  Robespierre's  hair,  a  box 
in  ivory  upon  which  is  carved  the  tomb  of  Louis  XVI. 
and  another  representing  the  dreaded  Bastille. 

In  the  Library  we  find  100,000  volumns  and  80,000 
engravings.  The  magnificent  bronze  statue  of  Louis 
XIV.  is  placed  in  the  courtyard  and  should  not  be 
overlooked. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


THE    NOTRE    DAME. 

The  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame  is  situated  on  the 
eastern  end  of  the  Island  de  la  Cite.  In  365  a 
church  was  built  on  the  site  where  the  towers  of 
Notre  Dame  now  stand;  and  on  this  site  formerly 
stood  a  temple  of  Jupiter.  The  second  cathedral  was 
built  some  centuries  later  and  were  united  into  one, 
and  in  1163  the  present  cathedral  was  commenced 
and  finished  in  70  years,  but  since  that  time  has  un- 
dergone many  renovations,  and  has  been  complete 
since  1845.  It  is  now  one  of  the  finest  specimens  of 
decorated  Gothic  in  the  world. 


84  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  principal  dimensions  of  the  cathedral  are:  The 
width  of  the  western  front,  128  feet;  height  of  the  two 
flanking  towers,  204  feet;  length  of  the  cathedral,  390 
feet;  width  of  transept,  144  feet;  and  height  of  the 
vaulting,  182  feet.  The  great  western  facade  is  div- 
ided into  three  stories,  the  lower  one  being  occupied 
by  three  doors  surrounded  by  elaborate  sculpture. 
Above  the  central  door  is  depicted  the  Last  Judg- 
ment, and  the  door  is  adorned  by  a  colossal  statue  of 
Christ,  the  right  hand  door  with  a  statue  of  St.  Mar- 
cel, and  the  left  with  one  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  on 
the  sides  of  the  Virgin  are  Adam  and  Eve,  both  in  a 
kneeling  attitude.  The  steeple  is  285  feet  high  and 
is  a  fine  specimen  of  mechanical  art,  worthy  of  special 
attention.  It  is  made  of  timber  and  covered  with 
lead.  The  interior  consists  of  a  principal  nave  and  a 
'double  series  of  aisles,  and  will  accommodate  many 
people. 

Around  the  walls  of  the  church  are  thirty-seven 
chapels.  There  is  a  finely  designed  pulpit,  and  the 
organ  is  one  of  the  marked  features  of  the  church. 
The  wood  carvings  and  decorations  of  the  stalls  are 
worthy  of  particular  notice.  There  are  monuments 
of  the  Archbishops  of  Paris  surrounding  the  choir. 
The  heart  of  Prince  Talleyrand  the  veteran  diplomat- 
ist who  finished  his  career  at  the  age  of  eighty-one  is 
here.  It  was  he  who  called  Napoleon's  Russian  cam- 
paign "the  beginning  of  the  end." 

The  cathedral  is  well  worthy  of  a  protracted  visit. 
The  objects  exhibited  comprise  the  "crown  of  thorns" 
brought  from  the  Hoi}7- land;  various  historical  sacer- 
dotal ornaments;  a  piece  and  a  nail  of  the  true  cross; 


THE   MORGUE. 


85 


one  of  the  cervical  vertebrae  of  Archbishop  Affre, 
with  the  bullet  by  which  he  met  his  death  while  on 
his  errand  of  mercy.  The  coronation  robes  of  Nap- 
oleon I.  who  was  crowned  in  Notre  Dame,  and  the 
robes  of  Empress  Josephine. 

Back  of  Notre  Dame  is  a  dismal  building  but  one 
of  the  sights  of  Paris.  It  is  the  Morgue,  the  recep- 
tacle for  the  corpses  of  persons  found  in  the  Seine  or 
killed  in  the  streets  of  Paris,  and  brought  to  be  seen 
and  identified.  The  remains  are  exhibited  on  stone 
slabs  behind  a  high  screen  of  plate  glass,  and  after 
having  lain  a  certain  time  unclaimed  are  taken  away 
and  buried,  but  where  there  is  a  possibility  of  their 
being  identified  the  bodies  are  put  into  a  refrigerator 
and  in  a  frozen  condition  often  kept  for  months. 
Their  clothes  and  whatever  other  things  are  found 
upon  them  are  retained  in  case  of  future  inquiries. 
And  it  is  seldom  that  these  grizzly  couches  are  with- 
out tenants,  for  in  this  great  city,  the  gayest  in  the 
world,  robbery,  murder,  and  suicide  are  nowhere 
more  rife.  That  strange  impulse  which  draws  men, 
and  even  women  and  children,  to  gaze  on  a  ghastly 
sight,  brings  thousands  of  visitors  annually  to  the 
Morgue. 

The  Saint  Chapelle  is  the  most  beautiful  of  all 
.the  church  buildings  in  Paris.  It  belongs  to  the 
thirteenth  century,  having  been  built  by  Louis  IX., 
who  while  on  one  of  the  crusades,  received  a  piece  of 
the  true-  Cross,  and  he  caused  this  shrine  to  be  erect- 
ed for  a  depository -for  this  priceless  Treasure.  The 
chief  points  of  interest  in  this  building  are  the  fifteen 
splendid  stained-glass  windows,  the  statues  of  the 


86  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

Apostles  placed  against  the  pillars,  and  the  magnifi- 
cence of  the  decorated  pillars  and  walls,  brilliant 
with  gold  and  color,  making  it  with  its  surroundings, 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  churches  on  the  continent. 

The  ''Palace  of  Justice,"  corresponds  with  our  Law 
Court  Houses,  and  forms  an  irregular  square.  It 
contains  a  number  of  galleries,  courtyards  and  halls. 
The  site  of  the  Palace  was  occupied  many  centuries 
ago  b}*  a  palace  which  was  the  residence  of  the  kings 
of  France.  The  police  occupy  a  part  of  this  build- 
ing, and  it  was  an  object  of  the  vengeance  of  the 
Communists  in  1871,  but  has  since  been  restored. 

The  prison  connected  with  the  Palace  of  Justice  is 
the  one  where  the  unhapp}^  Queen  Marie  Antoinette 
was  confined  for  a  few  days  preceding  her  execution. 
The  cell  in  which  she  was  confined  has  been  convert- 
ed into  a  chapel. 

In  entering  the  Hotel  Cluny,  we  seem  to  be  taken 
three  or  four  centuries  back  into  the  days  of  halberts 
and  cross-bows.  In  the  old  Roman  times  there  exist- 
ed here  a  palace  of  the  emperors,  connected  with  cer- 
tain Thermal  baths,  of  which  the  ruins  still  remain. 
There  is  a  large  collection  of  10,000  curiosities  of  va- 
rious kinds,  among  which  are  painting,  sculpture, 
carving,  metal  work,  textile  fabrics,  artistic  furniture, 
porcelain  and  glass.  Near  here  in  the  fourth  room  is 
a  great  canopied  bed  of  the  time  of  Francis  I.  of  the 
sixteenth  century  and  some  fine  cabinets  and  pieces 
of  carved  furniture  of  the  same  period,  and  some  as 
early  as  600. 

There  are  many  figures  in  these  halls.  One  figure 
representing  the  life  of  John  the  Baptist,  a  cup  in 


THE     PANTHEON.  87 

enamel  representing  Lot  and  his  two  daughters,  an- 
other cup  representing  Moses  in  the  desert,  visited 
by  Jethro  and  Zipporah,  also  a  sword-belt  with 
buckle  and  scabbard,  and  nine  golden  crowns  of  the 
seventh  century  found  in  1858  near  Toledo,  one  of 
them  belonging  to  a  king  who  reigned  in  A.D.  649. 

The  Pantheon  is  dedicated  to  the  patron  saint  of 
Paris.  It  is  of  modern  construction,  the  foundation 
having  been  laid  in  1784  on  a  site  where  an  ancient 
abbey  had  stood.  In  this  church  Mirabeau  and  Vol- 
taire were  buried,  and  later  Victor  Hugo  found  a  rest- 
ing place  here. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


THE    VERSAILLES. 


The  Versailles  is  about  twelve  miles  south-west  of 
Paris.  This  trip  may  be  by  cab,  tram-way  or  boat  to 
Pare  de  Saint  Cloud,  and  then  by  cab  the  remain- 
der of  the  way.  The  route  by  boat  is  a  pleasant  one, 
as  you  get  a  full  view  of  Paris  and  surrounding  coun- 
try from  the  boat  as  it  descends  or  ascends  the  ser- 
pentine river  Seine.  There  is  no  river  which  I  have 
ever  seen  of  its  size  that  is  navigable  so  far  as  the 


TO  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

Seine  in  France,  unless  the  Thames  of  London,  Eng- 
land, may  rival  it.  Let  us  go  either  way  we  may,  we 
shall  see  the  celebrated  race-course  of  Longchamps. 
This  we  believe  to  be  the  finest  race-track  on  the  con- 
tinent, if  not  in  the  world.  It  is  a  three-mile  track 
in  an  oblong  circle.  It  is  made  of  a  preparation  of 
gravel  and  cement,  and  when  packed  it  is  almost  as 
smooth  as  the  house  floor,  and  never  gets  sticky  or 
slippery.  It  is  laid  out  nearly  or  quite  level,  and  is 
about  one  hundred  feet  wide  with  nearly  a  full  circle 
at  the  ends  of  the  track. 

If  one  goes  by  the  river  it  is  best  to  go  to  the  track 
first,  which  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  leaving 
the  boat  on  that  side,  and  after  viewing  the  course, 
cross  over  one  of  the  bridges  which  span  the  Seine,  to 
the  opposite  side  near  the  Pare  de  St.  Cloud,  which  is 
a  short  distance  from  this  point. 

The  St.  Cloud  has  lost  much  of  its  interest  since 
the  demolition  of  the  old  Chateau,  but  it  is  worth  the 
time  it  takes  to  mount  the  heights. 

The  panaramic  view  of  Paris  obtained  from  the  ter- 
race can  be  seen  from  no  other  point. 

The  site  of  the  palace  is  now  laid  out  as  a  flower 
garden,  and  not  a  vestige  of  the  building  remains. 

St.  Cloud  was  a  favorite  residence  of  French  roy- 
alty from  the  time  of  Louis  XVI.  Here  Napoleon  I. 
made  himself  First  Consul,  and  here  Napoleon  III. 
and  Empress  Eugenie  resided  continually.  The  chat- 
eau was  occupied  by  the  Germans  in  1870,  and  is  now 
an  open  question  whether  the  fire  which  laid  it  in 
ruins  was  due  to  that  occupation,  or  was  ignited  by 
French  cannon  from  Fort  Valerien. 


THE     GRAND    TRIANON. 


89 


The  park  is  very  extensive  and  is  a  favorite  prome- 
nade with  the  Parisians. 

The  Grand  Trianon  is  but  a  few  miles  from  here, 
was  built  in  1688,  and  was  occupied  successively  b}r 
the  kings  of  France  and  by  Napoleon  I.  and  Josephine. 

The  most  interesting  feature  of  the  Trianon  is  the 
suits  of  apartments  prepared  by  Louis  Philippe  for 
the  reception  of  Queen  Victoria  in  1846.  The  bed 
hangings  are  of  the  richest  Lyons  silks.  The  gar- 
dens are  laid  out  in  circles,  squares,  and  triangles  of 
the  period  of  Le  Notre. 

The  State  Carriage  of  Napoleon  I.  and  III.  The 
chief  feature  is  the  coronation  carriage  of  Charles  X. 
This  is  the  most  costly  carriage  in  existence;  it 
cost  about  200,000  dollars,  and  weighs  nearly 
seven  tons.  This  carriage  was  last  used  for  the  bap- 
tismal of  the  Prince  Imperial  in  1856  at  the  Cathe- 
dral of  Notre  Dame,  the  carriage  being  occupied  by 
the  Emperor,  Empress,  and  the  Prince. 

The  point  where  one  can  get  the  best  view  is  at  the 
head  of  the  stone  steps  at  the  back  of  the  palace  over- 
looking the  grand  lake.  The  Fountain  of  Latone  is 
at  the  foot  of  these  steps,  and  allegorically  represents 
the  goddess  transforming  the  Lycian  peasants  into 
frogs  as  punishment  for  their  having  refused  her  a 
drink  of  cooling  water.  There  are  several  fountains. 
Among  them  the  Latone,  the  Apollo,  and  the  Nept- 
une. This  is  the  most  celebrated  collection  of 
fountains  in  Europe,  or  in  the  world.  But  the  visitor 
must  see  the  playing  of  all  of  them  to  form  a  just  and 
fair  conception  of  their  attractions.  Here  may  be 
seen  the  novel  effect  of  the  sun  on  falling  water. 


90 


PARIS     EXPOSITION. 


A  visit  to  the  porcelain  Manufactory  is  of  much 
interest,  but  one  gets  little  knowledge  of  how  the 
work  is  done.  A  workman  may  generally  be  seen 
turning  a  vase  from  wet  clay.  The  furnaces  are 
shown  and  also  large  quantities  of  unfinished  a'nd 
finished  work,  from  the  colossal  vase  to  the  egg-shell 
tea  cup;  and  many  of  them  are  marked  showing  the 
estimated  value. 

A  visit  to  Fontainebleau  is  an  exceedingly  inter- 
esting one.  Here  is  the  court  where  Napoleon  I.  bade 
farewell  to  his  generals  before  his  departure  to  exile 
in  Elba,  in  1814. 

The  ceiling  of  the  Trinity  Chapel  is  worthy  of  the 
closest  notice.  The  paintings  are  in  the  Angelo 
style,  representing  the  Descent  from  the  Cross,  etc. 

In  the  apartments  of  Napoleon  I.  we  pass  through 
the  bathroom  in  reaching  the  Salle  d'  Addicatiou 
where  the  Emperor  signed  his  addication  in  1814  be- 
fore his  being  transfered  to  Elba.  Here  may  be  seen 
the  identical  table  used  at  that  time;  also  a  very  fa- 
mous marble  bust  of  the  Emperor. 

The  floor  of  the  Council  Chamber  is  covered  with 
Beauvais  tapestry  very  rich  and  costly.  In  the 
Throne  Room  is  a  handsome  chandelier  made  of  rock 
crystal,  valued  at  about  3,000  dollars. 

The  Gallery  of  Diana  is  264  feet  long  and  contains 
about  35,000  books.  A  fac-simile  of  the  addication 
of  Napoleon  I.  is  present  here,  and  the  sword  of  Mon- 
aldeschi  who  was  put  to  death  by  Queen  Christiana 
of  Sweden  in  1657,  against  the  king's  orders. 

The  Ball  Room  of  the  palace  was  magnificent!}7 
decorated  by  King  Henri  II.  This  is  one  of  the  finest 


WHERE    THE    POPE    WAS    CONFINED.  91 

room  in  Europe.  It  is  90  feet  long  by  30  feet  wide. 
The  panelled  ceiling  is  made  entirely  of  walnut  and 
finished  in  the  highest  style  of  art  which  makes  it 
very  beautiful. 

In  the  Apartments  Blanches,  Napoleon  1.  confined 
Pope  Pius  II.  for  eighteen  month  because  he  would 
not  sanction  the  divorce  of  himself  and  Josephine. 

The  incidents  of  this  captivity  is  very  peculiar, 
and  it  is  stated  that  at  one  interview  the  Emperor 
lost  his  temper  to  such  an  extent  as  to  have  positive- 
ly boxed  the  ears  of  the  Pope  because  he  refused  to 
sign  away  the  Papal  Statues  of  the  Church. 

The  tapestry  in  the  principal  rooms  are  worth  near- 
ly a  100,000  dollars.  These  apartments  were  occu- 
pied by  Charles  I.  of  Germany  in  1530,  and  also  by 
Queen  Victoria  when  she  visited  France  in  1846. 

In  the  fountain  back  of  the  Terrace  may  be  seen 
the  enormous  carp  fish,  some  of  them  are  said  to  be 
more  than  a  hundred  years  old. 

The  Forest  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  in  France. 
It  is  about  63  miles  in  circumference  and  covers  over 
42,000  acres.  The  principal  places  of  interest  is  the 
Gorge,  the  Moving  Rock,  the  Brigands'  Cave,  and  the 
oldest  tree  in  the  forest,  supposed  to  be  over  ^,000 
years  old.  It  is  of  enormous  size,  and  should  be  seen. 

A  visit  to  St.  Germain  which  is  situated  about  13 
miles  down  the  Seine,  is  quite  interesting.  The  early 
French  kings  had  a  palace  here  from  very  old  times. 
The  chapel  here  was  built  in  840,  In  later  years 
Louis  XIII.  died  here,  and  when  James  Il.of  England 
was  driven  from  his  throne  in  1688,  Louis  XIV.  wel- 
comed the  exile  with  royal  hospitality  and  gave  him 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

St.  Germain   for  a   residence,    and  there  the  last  king 
of  the  Stuarts  died  in  1701. 

The  Forest  of  St.  Germain  consists  of  about  11,000 
acres,  and  is  fenced  in  with  a  very  .substantial  stone 
wall.  The  roads  through  this  forest  are  very  popular 
with  cyclists.  They  are  straight,  level,  and  are  very 
finely  kept  for  this  purpose. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


SUNDAY    IN    PARIS. 

As  this  is  our  second  Sunday  in  Paris  we  are  going 
to  write  to-day  our  ideas  of  the  religious  status  of 
the  people.  Of  course  the  prevailing  religion  of 
France  is  the  Catholic;  and  those  who  are  acquainted 
with  the  teuets  of  that  church  know  they  are  more 
liberal  as  regards  the  observance  of  the  Sabbath  than 
the  Protestant  believers.  We  find  a  true  Catholic, 
and  if  they  believe  the  Catholic  creed  they  are  true  to 
their  religion,as  the  following  will  illustrate:  A  Catholic 
was  arraigned  before  a  Judge  for  robbery  and  murder, 
and  when  asked  what  he  found  upon  the  person  he 
had  killed?  He  replied:  Two  shillings,  some  meat 
and  bread.  And  when  further  questioned  as  to  what 
he  had  done  with  these  articles,  replied  that  he  was 


RELIGION    OF    THE    FRENCH.  93 

hungry  and  so  ate  the  bre'ad,  and  as  he  was  dry  he 
bought  a  pint  of  whiskey  with  the  money  and  drank 
it,  but  as  it  was  Friday  he  threw  the  meat  away. 
This  will  show  how  pronounced  they  are  when  it 
comes  to  the  dogmas  of  their  church. 

In  England  and  America,  especially  among  the 
Protestant  thinking  people,  Sunday  is  considered  as 
a  day  of  worship.  We  do  not  presume  to  discuss 
this  religious  opinion,  or  to  compare  the  relative  sanc- 
tity of  other  nations  with  our  own,  but  we  cannot  re- 
frain from  pointing  out  that  the  wholesale  condemna- 
tion indulged  in  by  the  English  and  American  visit- 
ors against  the  "giddj*,  godless  Parisians"  is  to  a 
large  extent  based  upon  superficial  examination. 

From  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  even  earlier, 
all  the  principal  churches  of  the  city  are  crowded 
with  devout  worshippers.  The  servants  attend  the 
earliest  mass,  the  middle  class  follow  later,  and  the 
upper  classes  attend  the  later  service,  or  High  Mass 
with  music  which  takes  place  at  11  o'clock.  By  mid- 
day religious  services  are  over  and  the  thousands  of 
devout  worshippers  of  the  morning  will  be  found  in 
the  forest  and  the  country  in  the  afternoon,  rational 
recreation  and  enjoyment  is  the  order  of  the  day. 

All  who  choose  to  do  so,  can  take  a  middle  course  in 
disposing  of  a  Sunday  in  Paris.  That  is,  they  can 
visit  one  of  the  Catholic  churches  and  so  timed  as  to 
hear  some  of  the  magnificent  music  for  which  Paris  is 
so  justly  celebrated;  then  attend  one  of  the  English 
speaking  churches  during  the  morning;  in  the  after- 
noon take  a  quiet  drive  in  the  Boulogne,  and  in  the 
evening  a  stroll  on  the  Boulevards. 


94  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

To  those  who  are  absolutely  bent  on  pleasure,  we 
will  say  that  the  most  of  the  Galleries,  Museums 
and  Music-halls  are  open  from  10.  A.M.  to  4.  P.M. 

The  Theatres  have  afternoon  performance  on  Sun- 
da}T;  but  with  fine  weather  we  find  the  vast  majority 
of  Parisians  out  of  doors  with  picnic  baskets. 

Races  take  place  in  the  Bois  every  Sunday  after- 
noon during  the  spring  and  autumn. 

Cycling  races  take  place  almost  every  Sunday,  and 
as  some  of  the  money  prizes  amount  to  considerable 
the  attendance  is  generally  very  large. 

There  are  many  other  places  with  fine  attractions. 
The  fountains  playing  at  Versailles;  the  local  "fetes" 
of  St.  Germain,  the  fete  at  St.  Cloud,  the  fairs  at  Vin- 
cennes,  the  tree  Restaurant,  the  bathing  and  boating, 
and  other  general  attractions. 

Musical  service  of  the  different  churches  is  venT 
fine.  St.  Sulpice  has  the  best  organ  in  the  city.  St. 
Eustache  has  one  nearly  as  good.  St.  Roch  is  one  of 
the  richest  churches  and  her  musical  service  is  one 
of  the  best  in  Paris.  The  Notre  Dame  is  a  very  im- 
posing place  owing  to  its  surroundings,  but  her  music 
is  quite  inferior  to  some  of  the  others.  The  Made- 
leine has  the  most  imposing  service  and  largest  at- 
tendance of  any  church  in  Paris. 

We  have  now  given  about  all  the  principal  places 
and  points  of  great  interest  in  and  about  Paris,  and 
we  intend  to  start  for  Southampton  on  the  6  P.  M. 
train;  but  before  we  leave  this  beautiful  capital  we 
wish  to  moralize  on  the  country  and  people.  Or  per- 
haps I  should  say:  What  I  saw  and  think  of  the 
French  as  a  people  and  a  nation. 


WHAT     WE    SAW    IN    PARIS.  95 

Perhaps  it  might  be  just  as  well  if  we  were  to  close 
this  part  of  our  history  without  farther  comments, 
but  it  seems  in  our  general  descriptions  of  the  expo- 
sition and  of  the  city,  we  have  not  been  able  to  weave 
in  "a  thousand  and  one  things"  which  almost  every 
one  are  pleased  to  hear  about. 

As  we  have  written  the  foregoing  at  different  inter- 
vals, it  is  quite  possible  that  we  may  have  made  an 
occasional  repetition  if  so  you  will  see  how  near  alike 
we  can  tell  the  same  story. 

The  things  we  wish  to  speak  of  are  the  simple 
things  occuring  in  every  day-life.  In  order  to  get 
our  mind  upon  the  subject,  we  shall  have  to  take  a 
stroll  out  into  the  city  and  give  you  what  we  see.  As 
we  were  located  in  the  heart  of  the  city  almost  direct- 
ly in  front  of  the  great  city  Post  Office,  a  few  steps 
either  way  brought  us  into  close  proximity  to  the 
arteries  of  this  great  metropolis. 

One  block  to  the  east  brought  us  to  the  largest  and 
busiest  market,  as  it  is  claimed,  that  there  is  in  the 
whole  world. 

Into  this  market  is  brought  daily  almost  the  entire 
production  which  feed  nearly  three  millions  of  people. 
Can  you  conceive  the  amount  of  provisions  which  it 
would  take  to  feed  three  million  persons?  Let  us 
make  some  figures,  It  would  take  at  least  10,000 
head  of  ordinary  cattle;  25,000  barrels  of  flour;  300 
tons  of  cabbage;  100  tons  of  potatoes;  500  tons  of 
fruits,  and  500  tons  of  other  garden  truck,  besides  hun- 
dreds of  tons  of  other  things  which  we  cannot  name. 
Now  just  imagine  this  amount  of  provisions  spread 
out  in  one  place,  with  20,000  salesmen,  and  five  times 


96  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

as  man}'  customers,  and  you  would  have  a  faint  pict- 
ure of  what  may  be  seen  any  day  of  the  week  between 
the  hours  of  4  and  8  A.M.  And  in  this  motley  crowd 
of  at  least  100,090  people  of  all  sizes,  grade  and  color, 
you  will  rarely  ever  see  any  jostling,  cross  words  or 
ill  feelings  portrayed.  We  were  in  the  city  for  ten 
days  and  saw  only  one  drunken  man,  he  was  not  a 
Frenchman.  There  is  a  group  of  buildings  having 
stalls  which  are  used  for  meat  and  fish.  These  build- 
ings are  about  100  feet  square  and  16  in  number. 
They  are  arranged  so  a  house  will  have  just  one  kind. 

They  have  almost  everything  in  the  Paris  market 
to  eat  and  drink,  but  bread  seems  to  be  the  great 
"staff  of  life."  Go  into  the  market  about  8  o'clock 
after  the  great  rush  is  over,  and  you  will  see  almost 
every  one  of  these  20,000  salesmen  with  a  loaf  of 
bread  under  their  arm  or  near  by,  from  which  they 
take  bite  after  bite  until  they  have  eaten  a  loaf  about 
ten  inches  long  by  over  two  inches  in  diameter. 

Sometimes  they  will  have  a  bowl  of  chocolate  or  bot- 
tle of  wine  in  connection.  If  a  Frenchman  can  have 
his  bread  and  wine  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning  he 
needs  nothing  more  until  noon,  when  soup  with  bread 
and  a  small  quantity  of  meat  and  more  bread  and  a 
bottle  of  wine.  For  supper  it  will  be  more  soup,  bread 
and  wine.  They  drink  very  little  water,  tea  or  coffee, 
and  the  laboring  people  eat  but  little  meat,  but  some 
kind  of  vegetables  for  dinner  and  often  for  supper, 
but  wine  they  must  have  at  least  twice  each  day. 
They  seem  to  be  healthy,  but  they  do  not  work  like 
the  American  people.  That  is,  they  see  how  well 
they  can  do  a  thing  and  not  how  much. 


THE    PARIS     MARKET. 


97 


'  The  market  aside  from  the  buildings  previously 
spoken  of,  which  are  used  exclusively  for  meats  and 
like  products,  the  streets  which  are  quite  wide  in  this 
part  of  the  city,  and  the  squares  and  angling  corners 
which  are  plent€y  and  large  are  all  used  for  a  market 
place.  We  think  the  market  would  cover  fully  a 
square  mile  of  space.  In  the  most  of  these  streets 
from  4  to  8  A.M,  no  regular  teams  are  allowed  to  pass 
through  except  those  loaded  to  or  from  the  market. 
There  will  be  a  narrow  alley-way  partially  open  in 
which  a  team  may  be  driven  by  using  great  care. 

The  vehicles  used  for  hauling  the  vegetables  are  a 
kind  of  cart,  a  two  wheeled  conveyance,  and  they  will 
be  propelled  by  almost  every  conceivable  power.  Some 
will  be  drawn  by  a  horse,  others  by  an  ox,  cow,  dog, 
donkey,  goat,  man,  boy,  and  last  but  not  the  least 
uncommon,  a  woman  or  girl  harnessed  up  with  a  dog, 
goat,  donkey  or  man.  These  carts  loaded  high  up 
are  brought  from  out  side  of  the  city  proper.  That 
is  the  part  of  Paris  enclosed  within  the  walls.  This 
part  of  the  city  is  about  five  miles  across  and  is  near- 
ly round,  and  has  a  high  wall  around  it.  There  are 
54  gates  in  this  wall  in  which  all  the  traffic  from  the 
outside  is  done  through. 

We  learned  that  every  pound  of  farm  or  garden 
produce  has  to  pay  a  certain  per  cent  to  be  allowed  to 
sell  it  inside  of  the  gates.  Some  traders  pay  a  li- 
cence for  the  privilege  of  being  on  the  market,  while 
others  pay  such  a  per  cent  on  what  they  sell.  Flowers 
seem  to  be  a  great  commodity  in  the  Paris  market. 
There  are  hundreds  of  those  carts  loaded  with  all 
kinds  of  plants  that  have  a  bloom.  We  are  unable  to 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

tell  the  name  of  one  fourth  of  them.  The  peonies, 
pinks,  sweetwilliams,  violets  and  that  kind  of  flowers 
seemed  to  have  the  lead  of  the  market  while  we  were 
there.  Those  flowers  are  assorted,  dampened  and 
tied  into  bunches  to  be  sold  for  from  one  cent  up,  and 
placed  in  a  stand  basket  carried  on  the  back  of  wo- 
men principally,  and  hawked  about  the  city.  Every 
one  here  purchases  flowers.  It  would  seem  that  they 
are  a  part  of  the  Parisians  life,  and  the  trade  in  this 
line  is  immense.  It  is  said  that  there  are  tricks  in 
all  trades  but  ours.  It  seems  that  a  certain  color  is 
very  popular  with  the  people,  and  when  they  cannot 
get  flowers  of  that  shade,  the  dealers  have  recourse  to 
coloring  them  with  dyes,  and  unless  you  are  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  flower  you  cannot  tell. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

A    LIVING    IN    PARIS. 

A  living,  that  is  the  provisions  which  will  sustain 
life,  can  be  had  quite  cheap.  A  fair  breakfast  may  be 
had  for  from  4  to  6  cents,  of  our  money.  A  dinner 
with  soup,  meat  and  vegetables  for  about  15  cents, 
and  10  cents  will  get  a  very  good  supper.  There  are 
places  where  a  person  can  get  to  lie  down  for  from  6 
to  10  cent  per  night;  or  in  the  workingmen's  house 


CUSTOMS    OP    PARIS.  99 

board  ami  lodgings  may  be  had  for  about  two  dollars 
per  week.  But  in  anything  like  nice  quarters  the 
charges  will  be  from  ten  to  twenty  dollars  per  week. 
Paris  is  a  great  place  for  "tips;"  or  in  other  words 
you  have  to  pay  for  all  attendance.  You  pay  so 
much  for  your  board  and  then  so  much  for  one  to 
wait  on  you.  Then  you  pay  so  much  for  a  room, 
then  3Tou  pay  so  much  to  have  your  bed  made,  so 
much  for  napkins,  so  much  for  soap,  so  much  for 
lights,  so  much  to  have  your  grip  carried  up  or  down 
stairs,  and  so  much  if  you  have  water  to  drink  with- 
out ice,  which  is  very  seldom  used  other  than  to  make 
ice-cream  and  the  like.  A  person  may  think  he  is 
getting  a  room  quite  reasonable  at  the  first  cost,  but 
when  all  the  perquisites  are  added  he  finds  his  bill 
nearty  doubled. 

This  seems  to  be  a  custom  of  the  country,  and  is 
all  right  when  one  gets  use  to  it.  It  is  only  paying 
for  what  you  have  to  different  persons. 

While  on  our  visiting  trip  to  the  country  I  had  a 
chance  to  see  the  different  modes  of  farming.  We 
did  not  see  an}Tthing  that  we  could  class  as  real 
farming.  There  is  some  beautifully  located  land. 
Some  of  it  being  level,  while  other  is  rolling,  and  still 
other  that  we  would  call  decidedly  broken,  hilly 
and  mountainous.  As  far  as  we  were  able  to  learn, 
the  crops  are  grown  in  about  the  same  way.  Hand 
labor  is  used  in  producing  all  crops.  Hand  plowing, 
hand  planting,hand  hoeing,  and  hand  harvesting.  One 
horse  making  a  team  for  all  work  on  the  farm. 

We  judge  from  what  we  could  learn,  that  the  most 
of  the  good  land  is  owned  by  the  rich  men  of  the 


100  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

country,  and  let  in  small  tracts  to  tenants.  The  ten- 
ants living  in  small  villages  or  burgs  and  go  out  each 
day  to  work  the  land.  Nearly  all  who  work  land 
have  a  large  or  a  small  horse,  or  donkey,  which  when 
hitched  to  their  cart  produces  a  mode  of  transporta- 
tion to  and  from  their  work,  which  will  sometimes  be 
several  miles  a  way.  At  early  morning  or  late  in  the  eve- 
ning may  be  seen  a  cart  with  a  donkey  attached  and 
man  with  wife  and  several  children,  going  or  coming 
from  their  work  and  they  seem  to  be  happy. 

The  land  is  worked  in  slips  or  strips,  often  not 
more  than  20  to  40  feet  wide  and  often  from  50  to  100 
rods  long.  There  will  be  a  narrow  strip  in  beets,  an- 
other in  cabbage,  then  carrots,  raddishes,  lettuce,  po- 
tatoes, and  then  grains  and  grasses ;  the  whole  not 
occupying  more  than  one  to  ten  acres,  and  even  the 
side  hills  and  we  mjght  say  mountains,  where  the  side 
is  not  too  near  a  perpendicular  are  worked. 

When  we  get  into  a  country  where  stock  raising  is 
practiced,  then  we  find  nearly  all  the  land  into  grass 
or  other  soiling  crops.  Many  of  the  -cattle  used  for 
beef  are  grown  and  fed  here. 

We  think  but  few  are  grown  as  we  grow  them  on 
good  rich  pasture.  Much  of  the  land  is  sown  into 
what  will  make  a  good  product  for  soiling.  Then  the 
crop  is  either  cut  and  fed  to  stock  while  in  yards  or 
will  be  fed  in  the  way  we  call  "hogged  down."  This 
is  done  by  fencing  off  a  small  piece  and  turn  what- 
ever you  have  upon  it  and  when  the  feed  is  gone 
take  another  piece.  This  is  a  common  way  to  feed 
sheep  and];hogs.  Turnips  is  a  great  feed  for  sheep, 
and  is  used  to  some  extent  for  hogs,  Cattle  are  fed 


THE    STOCK    OF    FRANCE.  101 

on  the  grasses  and  root  crops  such  as  beets  and  some 
other  roots  which  we  are  not  acquainted  with. 

They  have  a  good  stock  of  horses,  the  French  Nor- 
man, but  we  were  unable  to  trace  them  out  to  find 
what  would  be  called  standard-bred.  We  think  they 
are  cross-bred  to  a  great  extent,  as  we  saw  almost  all 
kinds  in  the  market  stands,  as  much  so  as  we  would 
see  them  in  any  city  in  America.  In  speaking  of 
good  horses,  one  must  not  imagine  that  all  are  good, 
'  far  from  it.  If  one  should  stand  on  the  street  corner 
and  look  at  every  horse  that  would  pass  for  an  hour, 
I  do  not  believe  he  could  call  more  than  three  out  of 
each  ten  good  with  fine  points.  The  faults  with  them 
are,  some  would  be  too  large,  some  too  small,  others 
would  have  too  long  legs;  some  would  have  crooked 
legs,  and  some  would  be  fat  and  others  too  poor. 

Their  breed  of  cattle  and  sheep  are  fair.  We  saw 
Short-horns,  Guernseys  and  Jerseys.  Being  within 
about  fifty  miles  of  their  home,  we  saw  them  in 
their  purity.  We  do  not  think  they  have  any  native 
bred  Jerseys  which  can  show  the  butter  qualities 
which  some  of  our  American  bred  cows  can  show. 

If  we  were  to  search  for  a  great  butter  cow  we 
should  not  go  to  Guernsey  or  to  Jersey  for  it.  We 
have  better  butter  cows  in  America  than  can  be  found 
on  either  of  the  Islands.  We  do  not  say  but  what 
they  have  good  cattle;  they  certainly  have,  but  they 
are  not  bred  there  to  that  state  of  perfection  that 
they  are  here  in  America. 

We  have  now  given  a  few  rambling  thoughts 
about  France  and  her  people,  and  as  it  is  about  the 
hour  of  our  departure  for  Havre  and  Southampton, 


we  shall  leave  the  subject  for  the  present  and  give 
oar  retain  trip,  aad  if  we  have  the  space  before  we 
close  this  manuscript  we  will  give  another  chapter  of 
what  we  saw  in  Paris  by  "lamp  light." 

We  saw  bat  little  of  France  on  oar  return  trip,  as 
the  most  of  the  way  was  made  after  the  shadows  of 
the  evening.  We  made  the  distance  in  due  time,  and 
the  transfer  from  train  to  steamer  without  a  mishap. 
On  oar  arrival  we  found  the  boat  ready  to  cast  her 
mooring*. 

We  had  the  same  craft  that  we  had  crossed  the 
channel  in  ten  days  before.  The  vessel  was  not  over 
crowded,  we  had  plenty  of  room  and  it  being  quite 
calm  we  had  a  delightful  trip,  arriving  at  Southamp- 
ton about  6  o'clock  A.M.  The  distance  across  being 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 

Southampton  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  of  English 
towns,  and  from  the  Saxon  times  it  has  been  an  im- 
portant place  of  trade  and  shipping  point  It  was 
from  this  port  that  Henry  V.  embarked  on  the  expe- 
dition of  victory  of  Agincout,  over  500  years  ago.  It 
has  a  history  second  to  bat  few  cities  in  England. 

The  famous  docks  are  the  principal  feature  of  the 
place  Some  half  a  mile  east  are  the  public  parks 
very  tastefully  laid  out.  The  ruins  of  Netley  Abbey, 
and  the  New  Forest  are  of  interest  There  are  many 
fine  buildings  in  the  place;  some  elevated  crossings 
over  the  streets  and  railroad.  The  cars  from  all  the 
roads  coming  into  the  city  are  run  down  on  to  the 
docks  which  makes  the  transfer  of  passengers  and 
freight  very  simple  and  without  loss  of  time.  Those 
docks  are  immense. 


VISIT    T« 


103 


^  -uthampton  we   took   the   train  to   London, 
arriving  there  about  noon.    Here  we  found  everything 
in   a   terrible    bustle.     Everybody   moving  as  if  they 
had  but  a  short  time   more  to  live,  and  wished  to  get 
all  the  good  out  of  this  life  they  could.     The   Water- 
loo  station   is   large   but    by  having  the  name  of  the 
hotel  we  wished  to  go  to  it  was  but  a  few  minutes  be- 
fore we  were  rattling   through  the  streets  of  the  larg- 
:y  in  the  world  just  as  unconcerned  as  if  we  had 
lived   there   half  our   days.     The  "Cabby"  knew  the 
street  and   house   and   in   due  time  we  arrived  at  the 
hotel  and  found  the  landlady  ready  to  receive  us. 
We  found  comfortable  quarters   for  6  English  shil- 
gs    per  day   including   everything  connected  with 
room  and  board.     After  fortifying  the  inner   man   we 
went   down   to   find   our   banker   and  after  a  lengthy 
:U   sight    seeing   we   returned  to  our  hotel  tired 
enough  to  eat  and  sleep  well.     In  the  morning  it  was 
voted  that  we  should  go  to  London   Tower.     We   say 
ais   time   we  is   used  to  desig- 
nate a  compaay:  that    is  my  daughter,  self,  and  two 
old  bachelors  who  went  over   in   the   boat  with 
us  and  boarded   and    hoteled   with  us  while  in  Paris, 
and  came  to  London  with  us. 

One  of  these  gentlemen  bore  the   name   of  M.. 
and  was  about  40  years  of  age.     The  other  was  about 

ind  had  the  name  J.  T.  Reynolds, 
former  from  Canada,  and  the  latter  from  Georgia. 
And  by  the  way  the  one  from  Georgia  was  quite  a 
character  and  might  pass  in  some  respects  as  a  real 
yankee.  It  would  seem  that  he  was  northern  born 
and  claimed  Ohio  for  his  native  state,  but  had  been 


104  PARIS      EXPOSITION. 

connected  with  the  pine  lauds  of  Georgia,  for  nearly 
30  j^ears.  He  had  never  married  because  the  girl 
whom  he  wanted  married  another  man  that  had  more 
money  at  that  time  than  he  had. 

The  love  he  bore  for  her  seemed  to  never  have  died 
out  entirely;  yet  in  after  years  she  became  a  widow 
with  several  children,  but  then  he  would  not  have  her. 
She  seemed  to  have  made  a  failure  in  selecting  a  part- 
ner, as  the  one  she  took  became  a  drinking  man,  and 
ran  through  what  he  had  and  also  what  he  could  get 
from  her.  After  he  lost  his  girl,  he  became  a  little 
unsteady  until  by  drinking  cider-brandy  the  "D.T's." 
got  hold  of  him  and  the  Doctor  told  him  that  the 
next  time  he  had  such  a  spell  it  would  take  him  over 
to  the  other  side  of  the  "river  Jordan."  This  seemed 
to  have  opened  his  eyes  to  the  real  danger  before  him, 
and  since  that  time  he  has  been  strictly  temperate, 
and  among  other  things  to  be  good,  he  joined  the 
Presbyterian  church  and  became  an  Elder,  and  Su- 
perintendant  of  a  large  Sabbath  School.  He  could 
preach,  pray,  exhort,  or  sing,  at  a  moment's  notice. 
Sometimes  he  would  get  a  little  too  religious  but 
would  usually  keep  himself  "bottled  up,"  so  we  got 
along  very  quietly.  He  made  several  purchases  for 
his  particular  class,  and  among  other  things  he  Ob- 
tained a  very  beautiful  dress  pattern  for  one  of  the 
teachers  in  his  school.  He  was  quite  fanatical  on  re- 
ligion, but  on  the  whole  a  real  kindly  disposed  man. 


LONDON  TOWER.      RhFERK.NCE  :    PAGE   107. 


CHAPTER   XVII. 


THE    TOWER    OF    LONDON. 


"As  the  Tower  of  London"  was  the  first  place  we 
visited  we  shall  give  an  outline  description  of  this 
world  wide  tower.  The  whole  structure  covers  over 
12  acres  and  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  and  outside  a 
moat.  The  wall  is  about  20  feet  high  the  moat  20 
feet  wide  and  10  feet  deep  which  formerly  was  kept 
filled  with  water,  but  was  drained  in  1843.  The  first 
tower  was  commenced  in  1078  and  completed  in  20 
years.  There  were  some  additions  in  1240,  and 
others  in  1465.  It  was  built  and  used  as  a  palace  at 
first  then  it  became  a  prison,  but  is  now  an  arsenal 
and  a  depository  of  the  crown  jewels. 

As  we  reach  the  outer  Bail,  the  Bell  Tower  is  on  the 
left  in  this  part  the  Princess  Elizabeth  was  confined 
by  her  sister  Queen  Mary.  Between  the  outer  wall 
and  the  fortification  we  see  the  Traitor's  Gate  direct- 
ly opposite  the  Bloody  Tower  in  which  the  sons  of 
Edward  IV.,  were  murdered  by  order  of  Richard  III. 
Passing  through  under  the  Bloody  Tower  while  in  the 
inner  Bail  we  can  observe  the  White  Tower  which  is 
116  feet  long,  96  feet  wide  and  92  feet  high.  The 
walls  are  15  feet  thick,  surmounted  by  turrets.  In 

107 


108  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

is  tower  Prince  James  of  Scotland  was  confined  in 
1405.  It  is  near  this  room  where  the  bones  of  the 
two  princes  were  found. 

Sir  Raleigh  wrote  the  History  of  the  World  while 
imprisoned  in  a  room  on  the  first  floor.  On  the  sec- 
ond floor  is  the  Chapel  of  St.  John.  Adjoining  this 
is  the  Banqueting  Hall.  It  is  now  used  as  an  armory 
and  has  about  60,000  rifles  when  full.  The  upper 
floor  has  a  collection  of  ancient  armour  implements  of 
war,  instruments  of  torture,  block  and  axe,  and  spoils 
from  Indian  campaigns.  Beneath  this  tower  are 
dungeons  and  chambers  of  torture.  In  the  inner  Bail 
is  the  Council  Chamber  where  Guy  Fawkes  was  ex- 
amined while  under  application  of  the  most  severe 
torture. 

In  this  tower  Ante  Boleyn,  Earl  Warwick,  Lord 
Dudley  with  his  father  and  brothers  were  confined. 
This  part  was  built  in  1199. 

In  the  Bowyer  Tower  Henry  VI.,  was  murdered  by 
order  of  the  Duke  of  Gloucester,  and  the  brothers  of 
Edward  IV.,  were  drowned  here  in  a  butt  of  wine  in 
1474. 

In  the  southeastern  angle  there  is  a  curious  carving 
representing  a  sphere  with  the  rodiacal  signs  cut  by 
Draper  who  was  confined  here  on  a  charge  of  sorcery 
in  1560.  In  returning  by  the  south  passage  we  came 
to  the  Traitor's  Gate  through  which  State  prisoners 
pass.  Through  this  gate  Elizabeth  went  to  her  cell, 
Buckingham  to  his,  Wallace  and  Bruce  to  theirs. 
Near  here  in  the  Wakefield  tower  are  kept  the  royal 
crowns  and  sceptres,  orbs  and  swords,  coronation 
ampulla  and  baptismal  font.  The  keh-i-nor,  the 


WHITE-HALL.  109 

stone  of  fate  is  now  kept  at  Windsor  Castle.  Bat  the 
diamonds  and  rubies,  stones  and  gold  which  are  here 
for  safe  keeping  are  worth  $15,000,000. 

At  the  northeast  corner  of  the  tower  is  the  little 
burial  ground  belonging  to  the  St.  Peter's  Chapel. 
In  this  chapel  are  the  remains  of  more  Queens,  Dukes, 
Earls,  Lords  and  Ladys  than  can  be  found  in  any 
other  place  in  England,  all  having  been  beheaded  by 
an  opposing  power  which  was  ruling  when  the  acts 
were  done. 

Our  next  visit  was  through  White-Hall.  At  the 
top  of  the  street  is  a  statue  of  Charles  I.  Near  here  is 
the  Great  Scotland  Yard,  formerly  the  headquarters 
of  the  Police  force.  Here  is  located  the  great  York 
house,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Archbishop  of  York, 
but  is  now  used  as  a  museum.  Among  the  collec- 
tions is  a  model  of  the  battle  of  Waterloo  containing 
190,000  figures,  the  skeleton  of  Napoleon's  charger, 
Marenao.  From  White- Hall,  Elizabeth  was  carried 
through  the  Traitor's  Gate  a  prisoner,  from  which  she 
returned  to  be  crowned  Queen  of  England. 

We  next  visited  Regent  Park.  This  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  finest  in  London.  It  covers  an  area  of 
472  acres,  and  was  laid  out  in  1812.  Within  the 
park  are  the  gardens  of  the  Royal  Botanical  and 
Toxophilite  Societies,  with  the  clock  and  automatic 
figures.  The  Zoological  department  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  most  varied  menageries  in  the  world. 
We  cannot  enumerate  the  individuals  composing  this 
great  collection.  Almost  every  animal  in  the  world 
may  be  found  here. 

North  of  the  Zoological  gardens    is    Primrose   Hill 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

which  is  205  feet  high  from  which  a  fine  view  of  Lon- 
don may  be  had.  Victoria  Park  contains  290  acres, 
and  Finsbury  Park  has  120  acres  and  cost  the  city 
about  $500,000,  and  was  opened  in  1869. 

We  next  visited  Madame  Tussaud's  Exhibition. 
This  is  the  largest  collection  of  modeled  figures  in  the 
world.  And  they  are  so  true  to  nature  that  a  person 
will  often  mistake  them  for  living  persons.  A  little 
episode  happened  which  we  cannot  afford  to  let  pass 
without  noting  it.  As  we  were  desirous  of  obtaining 
a  catalogue  of  the  exhibition  we  requested  of  our 
guide  where  we  could  obtain  one  and  was  directed  to 
what  appeared  to  be  a  young  lady  sitting  at  a  table 
with  several  catalogues  before  her,  we  asked  for  one 
and  the  price  and  was  somewhat  surprised  that  she 
did  not  reply,  and  turned  around  to  leave  her  when 
the  guide  came  up  and  asked  if  we  had  obtained  what 
we  wished,  and  we  replied  that  she  did  not  seem 
to  understand  what  was  said  to  her,  when  he 
answered  that  he  did  not  think  she  could  hear  or 
speak,  and  then  we  fully  realized  that  the  lady  we 
were  tiying  to  talk  with,  was  only  an  extraordinary 
fine  model  placed  there  in  that  position  for  those  who 
wished  to  play  a  joke  upon  their  friends.  The  guide 
asked  pardon  for  the  part  he  had  enacted,  and  we  en- 
joyed examining  hundreds  of  others  just  as  good. 
In  fact  we  often  found  ourself  almost  upon  the  point 
of  bowing  to  some  finely  executed  model. 

We  shall  not  attempt  to  give  anything  like  a  full 
description  of  what  we  saw  as  a  volume  could  be 
written  upon  the  wonderful  collection,  but  shall  mere- 
ly touch  here  and  there  a  point  as  it  may  present 


KINGS  AND  QUEENS  OF "  ENGLAND.        Ill 

itself  to  us;  the  Tiger  Hunt,  the  first  models  we  en- 
counter as  we  enter  the  room  is  a  fine  piece  of  work- 
manship. His  Royal  Highness  has  mortally  wound- 
ed one  tiger  when  another  springs  from  the  jungle 
and  lands  upon  the  elephant,  Juno,  but  the  rider  has 
changed  his  gun  and  is  in  the  act  of  giving  the  other 
a  quiescence.  This  elephant  was  born  in  1785  and 
died  in  1892  being  over  one  hundred  years  old. 

In  room  1  we  find  Matilda,  wife  of  King  William 
I.,  she  was  the  most  beautiful  woman  in  England. 

King  William  I.  was  born  in  1027.  He  ruled  with 
an  iron-hand.  He  introduced  the  Curfew  bell,  a  sig- 
nal, which  at  8  o'clock  at  night,  every  fire  and  light 
to  be  extinguished.  He  laid  waste  a  compass  of  thir- 
ty miles  in  Hampshire  to  form  the  New  Forest,  to 
gratify  his  passion  for  the  chase.  He  died  in  1087. 

From  the  time  of  William  I.  to  Edward  III.,  from 
1027  to  1312,  there  were  14  Soverigns  to  the  English 
throne.  Some  died  and  others  were  murdered,  but 
their  models  are  all  here  in  life  size,  arrayed  in  the 
costume  of  their  time.  Edward  III.  known  as  the 
Black  Prince,  claimed  the  throne  of  France,  which 
led  to  the  one  hundred  years  war  with  France.  In 
his  reign  oil  painting  was  perfected,  and  gunpowder 
was  invented;  also  paper  making  was  brought  to  a 
certain  state  of  perfection,  but  he  out  lived  his  great- 
ness and  died  in  1377. 

Isabella  of  Valois,  was  married  to  Richard  II.  when 
she  was  only  seven  years  old;  born  in  1389  and  died 
in'  1437. 

Queen  Joan  was  arrested  on  a  charge  of  witch- 
craft and  imprisoned  in  the  castle  and  died  in  1437. 


112 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


Catherine  Howard  fifth  queen  of  Henry  eighth  who 
was  beheaded  in  1542  on  a  charge  of  unfaithfulness 
to  the  King.  A  very  beautiful  but  dissolute  woman. 

We  have  now  come  to  where  two  of  England's  most 
noted  Queens  are  located;  Queen  Maiy  and  Queen 
Elizabeth,  the  former  known  as  Bloody  Mary.  During 
her  youth  she  adhered  firmly  to  the  Roman  Catholic 
faith,  and  on  her  accession  in  1553,  and  after  a  ten 
day's  reign  of  Lady  Jane  Gray,  she  attempted  to  set 
up  the  Catholic  religion,  which  in  order  to  do,  many 
of  the  leading  Protestants  were  burned  for  heresy. 
Mary  died  in  1558.  She  had  some  good  qualities, 
but  was  the  darkest  of  bigots  and  completely  under 
Priestly  influence. 

Elizabeth  came  to  the  throne  after  the  death  of  her 
sister  Mary.  She  allied  herself  with  the  reformers 
and  re-established  the  Protestant  religion.  Her  reign 
was  made  illustrious  by  the  great  statesmen  and 
warriors,  poets  and  navigators,  who  spread  the  fame 
of  Britain.  Elizabeth  had  bright  talents  and  great 
resolution.  She  was  never  married,  but  her  flirtations 
were  many.  She  was  a  strange  compound  of  mag- 
nanimity and  meanness,  heroism,  fickleness,  sagacity 
and  vanit}7.  She  died  in  1603. 

We  now  come  down  to  Cromwell  who  was  born  in 
1599  and  was  made  Lord  Protector  in  1653  for  five 
years.  He  was  sent  to  Parliament  in  1640  by  the  Pu- 
ritan party.  He  took  an  active  part  in  organizing 
the  army,  and  with  the  troups  trained  and  under  his 
command  he  won  the  battle  at  Marston  Moor  in  1644 
and  at  Naseby  in  1645.  In  1653  he  was  made  Lord 
Protector  and  ruled  for  five  years.  It  was  through 


ENGLISH    HISTORY.  113 

him  that  Charles  I.  was  put  to  death.  He  was  a 
great  man,  though  perhaps  a  very  bad  one. 

From  Cromwell  to  George  the  third,  there  were  six 
inonarchs  in  England  from  1658  to  1760,  a  little  over 
100  years.  George  the  third  was  a  patriotic,  well 
meaning  monarch,  always  anxious  to  do  right.  The 
last  years  of  his  life  were  darkened  by  insanity.  His 
rule  closed  in  1811,  though  his  life  was  prolonged 
until  1820.  We  now  come  down  to  William  the 
fourth,  the  third  son  of  George  the  fourth,  born  in 
1765  and  died  1837.  He  was  married  in  1818.  They 
had  two  daughters  but  both  died  before  they  were  a 
year  old.  By  the  death  of  these  two  children,  his 
niece,  the  Princess  Alexandrina  Victoria  daughter  of 
Edward  Duke  of  Kent  became  heiress  to  the  throne. 
George  IV.  was  a  bluff,  warm  hearted  monarch  uni- 
versally beloved  by  his  subjects 

We  find  the  model  of  Garibaldi,George  Washington, 
Thiers,  Carnot,  Macmahon,  Princess  of  Wales,  Leo- 
pold, M.  De  Lesseps,  Kipling,  Shakspeare,  Sir  Walter 
Scott,  Lord  Roberts,  Voltaire,  Victor  Hugo,  Li  Hung 
Chang,  Captain  Dreyfus,  Rothschild,  LadyJ  ane  Grey, 
John  Calvin,  and  Mary  Queen  of  Scots. 

The  last  named  was  the  daughter  of  James  V.  king 
of  Scotland,  and  was  born  in  1542.  By  the  death  of 
her  father  she  became  Queen  when  only  eight  days 
old.  She  was  sent  to  France  when  she  was  six  years 
old  and  was  married  to  Dauphin  when  she  was  six- 
teen, who  became  king  of  France  in  1561.  After  his 
death  she  returned  to  Scotland  but  was  driven  from 
there  to  England  and  was  imprisoned  by  Elizabeth, 
and  beheaded  by  her  in  1587. 


114  PARIS      EXPOSITION. 

Here  we  find  the  model  of  Martin  Luther,  Irving, 
Lord  Dunraven,  Queen  of  Spain  and  Infant  Son,  Me. 
Kinley,  Abraham  Lincoln,  General  Grant,  Andrew 
Johnson,  Grover  Cleveland,  President  Harrison,  Pres- 
ident Garfield,  Benjamin  Franklin  Charles  Dickius, 
'Lord  Nelson,  Madame  Tussaud,  Prince  of  Wales, 
Queen  Victoria,  Czar  of  Russia,  Emperor  of  Germany, 
Charles  Bradlaugh,  William  Booth,  Stanlej^,  John 
Wesle}^,  Hon.  Gladstone,  Prince  Albert,  John  Burns, 
Rev.  Spurgeon,  Lord  Byron,  Robert  Burns,  Joan  of 
Arc,  Lord  Macaulay,  John  Bright,  Captain  Webb, 
Tom  Thumb,  Tennyson,  Sims,  Napoleons  first,  third 
and  only  Son. 

We  have  given  a  few  of  the  names  of  the  models 
of  those  most  familiar  to  the  American  people,  there 
are  hundreds  of  others  who  are  just  as  well  represent- 
ed but  are  not  so  generally  known  to  the  public. 
These  models  as  we  have  already  said,  are  the  very 
finest  works  of  art  that  are  extant,  and  wish  we  had 
space  to  give  a  more  extended  history. 

We  are  now  at  the  picture  and  relic  galleiy  and  it 
is  immense.  We  can  only  give  the  names  of  a  few  of 
the  most  pronounced. 

The  flag  of  Elba,  a  picture  of  Napoleon  on  horse- 
back, crossing  the  Alps.  A  Battle  of  Waterloo.  The 
Emperor's  first  and  second  wife.  King  of  Rome, 
Jerome  Napoleon,  the  mother  of  Napoleon  I.  and  the 
Brothers  and  Sister  of  the  first  Napoleon. 

A  Shirt  worn  by  Henry  IV.  when  stabbed  in  1610. 
The  stains  of  blood  are  still  to  be  seen.  The  Chair 
used  by  Napoleon  at  St.  Helena,  and  a  piece  of  wil- 
low from  the  tree  under  which  he  was  burried.  The 


CHAMBER    OF    HORRORS.  115 

military  carriage  of  Napoleon  I.  Glass  cases  of  wear- 
ing apparel,  Jewehy,  Dessert  and  Library  fixtures, 
also  Swords,  Sash  and  a  table  used  by  Napoleon  I. 

There  are  the  marble  Busts  of  the  entire  family  of 
Napoleon  I.  and  III.  The  likeness  of  Mrs.  Maybrick 
who  poisoned  her  husband.  Balfour  convicted  for 
fraud. 

We  have  now  arrived  at  the  Chamber  of  Horrors, 
we  would  leave  this  part  out  if  we  could,  but 
should  not  be  doing  justice  to  the  reader  unless  we 
name  some  of  the  thing  we  saw  in  this  chamber. 

The  first  seen  is  the  six  Stages  of  Wrong.  These 
are  all  models  and  are  made  true  to  life.  First  temp- 
tation, second,  the  game;  third,  ruin;  fourth,  revenge; 
fifth,  guilty  or  not  guilty;  sixth,  his  last  journey, 
and  thirty  years  in  prison.  The  Reading  Baby  Farmer 
was  condemned  to  death  for  the  murder  of  a  number 
of  babies  entrusted  to  her  care.  Thurtell,  hanged  for 
the  murder  of  Mr.  Weare.  Orsone  Pierri,  and  Pianori 
beheaded  for  the  attempted  murder  of  Napoleon  III. 
which  failed  but  several  others  were  killed.  Charles 
Peace,  John  Oard,  William  Fish,  James  Lee,  James 
Rush,  Walter  Miller,  Wainwright,  Good,  Guiteau, 
Davis,  Benson,  Paine,  Owen,  Muller,  Mullins,  Hall, 
Fowler,  and  Hull. 

The  above  names  belong  to  murderers  who  were 
hung  or  beheaded  for  their  crimes.  The  models  are 
all  there  and  the  real  instruments  by  which  they  suf- 
fered man}7  of  them  are  there  to  be  seen. 

A  model  of  the  Bastille,  a  State  Prison  in  Paris, 
surrounded  by  a  moat  and  the  ramparts  of  which  are 
armed  with  cannons. 


116  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

We  come  now  to  the  most  extraodinary  relic  in  the 
world.  We  see  here  the  original  Knife  and  Lunette 
that  decapitated  20,000  persons,  among  whom  were 
Louis  XVI.,  Marie  Antoinette,  Madame  Elizabeth, 
the  Duke  of  Orleans,  Robespierre,  and  which  may  be 
said  to  have  shed  the  best  as  well  as  the  worst  blood 
of  France.  This  relic  was  purchased  by  Madame 
Tussaud  from  the  grandson  of  the  original  execu- 
tioner. This  machine  being  a  modification  of  the 
"Scottish  Maiden,"  the  "Halifax  Gibbet,'1  and  the 
"Italian  Caraletto." 

We  have  now  the  head  of  Marie  Antoinette,  guil- 
lotined October  16th.  1493.  This  model  was  taken 
immediately  after  her  execution  by  order  of  the  Na- 
tional Assembly  of  France  by  Madame  Tussaud' s 
own  hands. 

There  is  a  long  and  interesting  history  connected 
with  the  beheading  of  this  unhappy  Queen.  Those 
who  wish  to  follow  this  scene  farther  can  do  so  by 
obtaining  a  histoiy  of  the  French  Revolution.  We 
will  simply  add  that  we  believe  that  she  was  a  much 
abused  person,  and  had  she  not  been  Queen,  the  en- 
tire nation  would  have  loved  her  as  a  good  woman. 

We  see  next  the  heads  of  Herbert,  and  Robespierre. 
The  former  was  beheaded  by  order  of  the  latter  in 
March  1794,  and  in  July  of  the  same  year  the  latter's 
head  was  cut  off  by  the  same  instrument  and  heads- 
man. The  reign  of  terror  ceased  when  the  Protector's 
head  fell  into  the  basket. 

In  the  Hall  of  Tableaux  are  many  fine  representa- 
tions. The  finding  of  the  body  of  Harold  the  English 
king.  Alfred  the  Great,  as  cowherder  in  Neatherd. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

LONDON'S  GREAT  MARKETS. 

The  Greater  London  covers  an  area  of  688  square 
miles,  and  its  population  is  over  six  millions.  There 
are  800,000  houses,  and  about  8,000  miles  of  streets. 

It  is  estimated  that  there  are  750,000  cats,  and 
dogs  and  horses  almost  without  number.  The  cats 
live  on  the  156,000  horses  which  die  annually,  and 
doled  out  in  penny  and  half-  penny  installments.  To 
feed  the  six  millions  is  another  thing.  It  is  estima- 
ted that  to  feed  the  people  one  year  it  will  take  100, 
000  head  of  cattle,  400,000  head  of  sheep,  50,000 
calves,  50,000  hogs,  3,000,000  rabbits,  50  acres  of 
poultry,  and  a  pyramid  of  bread  600  feet  square  and 
a  thousand  feet  high. 

There  are  more  than  50,000  dealers  of  vegetables 
and  provisions.  We  saw  the  finest  beef  and  mutton 
in  this  market  that  we  ever  saw.  The  market  houses 
are  better  arranged  than  any  other  place  we  ever  saw. 
The  stalls  are  large  and  the  alley-waj's  wide.  There 
is  no  crowding  here;  every  one  has  plenty  of  room 
and  there  is  plenty  of  meat  for  all.  In  the  vegetable 
market  for  the  poor. people  we  find  more  of  a  French 
market,  that  is  less  room,  more  stock  and  usually  a 
large  crowd  of  people.  117 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

We  saw  next  Bartholomew's  Church.  It  is  a  fine 
structure,  and  near  by  is  the  church  of  St.  Paul, 
built  in  1633.  Covent  Garden  Market  is  near  here. 
It  is  the  high  toned  fruit  and  vegetable  market  of  the 
city.  The  Smithfield  Market  being  the  principal 
meat  market.  The  building  is  630  feet  long,  245  feet 
wide,  and  30  feet  high.  The  roof  is  of  iron  and  glass, 
and  the  structure  covers  three  and  a  half  acres.  Near 
this  place  is  where  the  public  executions  were  former- 
ly performed.  Fronting  the  Market  is  St.  Bartholo- 
mew's Hospital.  There  are  674  beds,  and  there  are 
received  annually  about  6,000  patients,  and  affords 
relief  to  nearly  150,000  out-patients. 

We  now  get  a  view  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral.  It  is 
built  in  the  form  of  a  cross.  Its  length  from  east  to 
west  is  550  feet,  the  breadth  118  feet,  the  transept  is 
250  feet  long,  the  inner  dome  225  feet  high,  and  from 
the  pavement  to  the  top  of  the  cross  363  feet.  There 
is  a  facade  180  feet  broad  with  a  group  of  statuary, 
representing  Queen  Anne,  with  England,  Ireland, 
France,  and  America,  around  her.  On  the  apex  of 
the  pediment  is  a  statue  of  St.  Paul  15  feet  high.  The 
interior  is  massive  in  size  and  well  studded  with  stat- 
ues from  the  best  masters.  The  total  cost  of  the 
whole  work  is  supposed  to  have  been  between  two  and 
a  half  and  three  million  dollars. 

The  entrance  to  the  upper  portion  is  by  three  flights 
of  stairs  of  about  130  steps  each.  From  this  point  an 
extended  view  of  the  city  may  be  had.  Above  this 
point  45  feet  higher  is  the  cross.  There  are  many 
notable  persons  interred  here.  Among  them  are  Dr. 
Samuel  Johnson,  Lord  Nelson,  Lord  Cornwallis,  Sir 


A    VIEW    OP    LONDON. 

Peter  Cooper,  Sir  John  Moore  and  a  Monument  of  the 
Duke  of  Wellington. 

The  celebrated  Banking-house  of  Rothschild  is  lo- 
cated near  by,  and  also  London  Bridge.  Near  h^re 
is  the  location  of  the  famous  Boar's  Head  Tavern, 
associated  with  Jack  Falstaff's  accounts  of  his  en- 
counter with  the  "rogues  in  buckram"  at  Gad  Hill. 

The  Monument  erected  to  commemorate  the  Great 
Fire  of  1666  is  situated  here.  The  shaft  is  202  feet 
higli  and  is  located  203  feet  from  where  the  fire  com- 
menced. It  has  an  urn  surrounding  it  42  feet  high. 
The  stairs  have  345  steps.  It  has  an  iron  grating 
to  prevent  persons  from  jumping  off.  Six  suicides 
have  sought  death  in  that  manner. 

Further  on  we  pass  Philpot  and  Lovers  Lane,  then 
Mincing  Lane  and  Mark  Lane,  where  the  Corn  Ex- 
change is  located,  and  other  grain  houses. 

We  now  come  directly  facing  the  Tower.  In  the 
northwest  angle  of  the  outer  wall,  is  the  site  of  the 
scaffold  which  for  many  years  was  constantly  crim- 
soned with  the  blood  of  royalty.  The  strong  men 
and  delicate  women,  the  flower  of  youth,  the  fulness 
of  manhood,  and  the  ripeness  of  age,  all  contributed 
to  the  sanguinary  history  of  Tower  hill.  Among 
whom  were  Bishop  Fisher,  Sir  Thomas  More,  Crom- 
well, Earl  of  Essex,  Earl  of  Warwick,  Earl  of  Staf- 
ford, and  Lord  Lovat,  who  in  1747  closed  the  long 
list  who  suffered  on  the  block  in  England. 

Curiously  perserved  is  the  head  of  the  Duke  of 
Suffolk,  father  of  Lady  Jane  Gray,  may  now  be  seen 
under  glass,  in  the  Church  of  Holy  Trinity.  This 
head  which  was  found  preserved  in  tannin  in  a 


120 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


vault  near  the  altar,  is  perfect  even  to  the  twin  murks 
of  the  axe,  the  false  blow  which  failed  to  kill,  and 
the  one  which  severed  the  head  from  the  body.  The 
features  are  perfect. 

The  Royal  Mint  was  erected  on  the  site  of  an  old 
Abbey.  The  various  implements  employed  in  pro- 
ducing the  coins  of  the  realm  are  worth  seeing.  There 
is  a  sub-way  from  near  this  point  leading  underneath 
the  river  Thames.  It  is  a  damp  and  unpleasant  pas- 
sage seven  feet  in  diameter  and  is  reached  by  a 
winding  staircase  of  96  steps. 

The  Tower  Bridge  just  below  the  Tower,  is  a  bal- 
anced drawbridge  and  stands  142  feet  above  high 
water  level,  and  is  constructed  of  steel.  The  center 
span  is  two  hundred  feet  long  and  is  composed  of 
twin  bassets,  which  can  be  raised  in  one  and  a  half 
minutes  for  the  passage  of  vessels.  The  whole  bridge 
is  half  a  mile  long  and  cost  1,250,000  dollars;  the 
annual  cost  to  maintain  it  is  75,000  dollars. 

Victoria  Embankment  extends  from  Waterloo 
Bridge.  It  is  a  noble  thoroughfare  and  extends  a 
little  over  a  mile.  It  is  macadamized  64  feet  wide, 
with  a  row  of  trees  on  each  side. 

Cleopatra's  Needle,  one  of  the  famous  obelisks  of 
Heliopolis.  It  was  presented  to  the  British  Govern- 
ment by  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt  in  1819;  it  is  68  feet 
high  and  weighs  180  tons. 

Going  west  from  this  point  we  pass  Westminister 
Bridge,  the  Parliament  Buildings,  the  Thomas  Hos- 
pital, the  Whitehall  Gardens  and  the  New  Scotland 
Yards  and  Police  Station.  A  wonderful  place  and 
should  not  be  over  looked. 


THE    STREETS    OF    LONDON. 

Piccadilly  street  is  one  of  the  busiest  in  the  city, 
and  we  judge  that  much  wealth  is  here  located.  The 
Burlington  House  is  built  upon  this  street.  .Located 
in  this  house  is  the  Royal  Society,  the  Royal  Acade- 
my of  Arts,  the  London  University,  the  Astronomical, 
Geological  and  Chemical  Societies.  West  of  the 
house  is  the  Burlington  Arcade,  and  opposite  the 
Church  of  St.  James. 

Old  Bond  street  is  near  here  and  is  noted  for  its 
art  stores  and  jewellery  shops. 

Near  to  Hyde  Park  is  the  new  equestrian  statue  of 
the  Duke  of  Wellington.  He  once  lived  near  this 
place,  so  also  did  Baron  Rothschild.  It  is  an  inter- 
esting fact  not  generally  known  that  there  are  only 
about  76  equestrian  statues  in  the  world,  and  that 
the  larger  part  stand  on  British  soil. 

The  Mayfair  is  a  popular  street,  and  many  men  of 
note  have  lived  there. 

At  the  intersection  of  Cockspur  and  Pall  Mall,  is  a 
bronze  statue  of  George  III.  In  the  center  of  Water- 
loo Place  is  a  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of 
2,162  officers  and  privates  of  the  Guards  who  fell  in 
the  Crimean  War. 

There  are  many  fine  residences  and  business  blocks 
in  this  part  of  the  city. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


THE    HOUSES    OF   PARLIAMENT. 

The  Buildings  erected  on  the  site  of  those  destroy- 
ed by  fire  in  1834,  was  begun  in  1840,  and  is  proba- 
bly the  largest  Gothic  structure  in  the  world.  It 
covers  nearly  eight  acres,  it  being  on  one  side  900 
feet  long,  and  is  built  chiefly  of  granite  stone. 

The  exterior  is  ornate  in  the  extreme,  comprising 
statues  and  coats  of  arms  of  all  reigning  Sovereigns 
from  the  Conquest  to  the  present  time.  At  the  south- 
west angle  is  the  Victoria  Tower  75  feet  square  and 
340  feet  high.  The  central  tower  is  60  feet  square 
and  300  feet  high.  The  Clock  Tower  is  40  feet  square 
and  320  feet  high.  The  clock  runs  eight  days.  The 
hours  are  struck  on  a  13  ton  bell, 

The  House  of  Commons  is  70  feet  long,  45  feet  wide 
and  45  feet  high.  The  sessions  open  at  3  P.M.  and 
usually  close  at  12  midnight. 

The  House  of  Peers  is  97  feet  long.  45  feet  wide 
and  and  45  feet  high.  The  Throne  occupies  the 
.south  end  of  the  hall,  and  is  decorated  with  a  richly 
gilded  canopy. 

A  Peer's  order  is  necessary  to  obtain  admission  to 
the  House  of  Lords  during  its  sessions.  Within  the 
building  are  100  staircases  and  1,100  apartments. 

122 


§ 
§ 


124 


WESTMINISTER    HALL.  125 

It  is  warmed  by  16  miles  of  steam  pipes,  and  light- 
ed by  electricity.  The  cost  of  erecting  this  building 
and  improvements,  amounted  to  over  $15,000,000. 

Westminster  Hall,  on  account  of  its  remarkable 
historic  associations  is  of  great  interest  to  the  sight- 
seer. This  hall  is  590  feet  long,  98  feet  wide,  and  92 
feet  high.  The  roof  is  self  sustaining.  This  build- 
ing was  commenced  in  1097.  In  1291  it  was  partially 
destroyed  by  fire,  and  was  rebuilt  in  1398,  and  some 
repairs  were  made  in  1820.  Cromwell  was  acknowl- 
edged Lord  Protector  of  England  in  this  room,  and 
in  less  than  a  decade  his  body  was  dragged  from  the 
Abbey  to  Tyburn,where  headless  it  was  cast  into  a  pit 
beneath  the  gallows.  His  head  with  others  were  ex- 
posed on  the  pinnacles  of  Westminister  Hall  where  it 
remained  thirty  years,  and  finally  was  blown  down 
by  a  strong  wind. 

Here  Wallace  was  condemned,  Sir  Thomas  More, 
the  Earl  of  Essex,  and  Guy  Fawkes,  were  sent  to  the 
block.  Lord  Byron  was  tried  here  for  killing  Cha- 
worth  in  a  andduel,  Lord  Hastings  had  his  trial  which 
covered  the  space  of  seven  years.  Mr.  Gladstone's 
remains  lay  here  in  state  two  days  before  interment. 

Westminster  Abbey  is  the  most  interesting  Christ- 
ian edifice  in  the  world.  The  original  church  was 
founded  about  616,  and  was  destroyed  in  985.  An- 
other was  erected  in  1049  to  1065, and  the  Towers  were 
completed  in  1714. 

The  Abbey  is  513  feet  long,  the  chapel  403  feet,  the 
transept  200  feet,  length  of  choir  155,  height  101  feet. 
Towers  225  feet  high.  It  is  one  of  the  grandest 
structures  that  we  have  ever  seen. 


126 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


In  this  church  all  the  Sovereigns  from  the  Confes- 
sor to  Victoria  were  crowned  and  the  dust  of  more 
than  twenty  of  them  lie  within  its  vaults  and  tombs. 

In  the  north  transept  are  the  tombs  of  many  of  the 
great  men  of  the  times.  Lord  Pitt,  Channing,  New- 
castle, Mansfield,  Sir  Robert  Peel,  Beaconfield,  and 
Gladstone,  Sir  Isaac  Newton,  Charles  Darwin,  Ben. 
Johnson,  William  Pitt,  Major  John  Andre,  Isaac 
Watts,  John  Wesley,  Macaulay,  Shakespeare,  Camp- 
bell, Charles  Dickeus,  Tennyson,  and  Longfellow  are 
also  interred  here. 

In  a  room  adjoining  is  the  box  in  which  the  stand- 
ards of  silver  and  gold  are  kept;  and  back  of  this  is  a 
red  granite  shaft  60  feet  high,  erected  in  memory  of 
those  who  fell  in  the  India  war. 

St.  James'  Park  which  is  near  here,  contains  83 
acres.  The  Green  Park  has  71  acres.  Both  are  well 
laid  out,  and  bordering  on  them  are  many  fine  man- 
sions, also  Wellington  Barracks,  and  near  by  is'  Con- 
stitution Hill,  where  Sir  Robert  Peel  was  thrown  from 
his  horse  and  killed  in  1850,  and  here  three  attempts 
have  been  made  on  the  life  of  the  Queen. 

Hyde  Park  joins  those  already  named.  At  the 
north  east  entrance  is  a  Marble  Arch  costing  nearly 
500,000  dollars.  There  is  388  acres  in  this  park,  ma- 
king with  the  other  two  parks  over  two  miles  long 
by  about  one-half  mile  wide. 

the  Royal  Albert  Memorial  was  erected  here  at  a 
cost  of  600,000  dollars. 

Opposite  the  memorial  is  the  Royal  Albert  Hall. 
It  cost  1,000,000  dollars.  It  is  circular  and  800  feet 
in  circumference  and  will  seat  8,000  people. 


BUCKINGHAM    PALACE.  127 

Buckingham  Palace  is  the  residence  of  the  Queen 
when  in  London  and  is  in  the  west  end  of  the  Mall. 
The  building  is  not  handsome,  it  is  quadrangular  in 
shape,  and  contains  Salon,  Drawing  Room,  and  Pict- 
ure Gallery. 

The  Royal  Stables  contain  room  for  forty  carriages 
and  for  the  state  harness-horses.  The  elaborate 
State  Coach  cost  nearly  40,000  dollars. 

The  National  Gallery  was  founded  in  1824.  It  has 
a  large  collection  of  paintings.  Two  collections  cost 
over  600,000  dollars. 

The  British  Museum  was  founded  in  1700;  53  years 
later  a  subscription  of  500,000  dollars  was  raised  and 
it  now  embraces  the  most  notable  collection  of  books, 
manuscripts,  drawings,  prints,  etchings,  coins  and 
medals,  ancient  and  modern,  antiquities  and  sculpt- 
ures, gems  and  gold  ornaments  of  all  ages,  that  have 
ever  been  gathered  in  any  county. 

There  are  2,200  volumes  of  the  catalogue.  The 
library  of  printed  books  number  1,350,000.  There 
are  50,000  volumes  of  manuscripts,  nearly  as  many 
charters;  7,000  seals  and  casts,  and  more  than  110 
papyri  in  Greek,  Coptic  and  Latin  languages.  The 
Art  galley  of  South  Kensington  has  50,000  volumes, 
60,000  engravings,  45,000  photographs,  and  over 
17,000  drawings. 

One  should  not  fail  to  visit  the  Indian  Museum, 
which  is  filled  with  countless  works  of  art  from  India. 
The  Patent  Office  Museum  has  the  model  or  the  orig- 
inal of  all  the  early  inventions  of  the  age,  among 
which  are  the  first  li3Tdraulic  press,  engine,  steam- 
boat, and  locomotive  ever  seen  in  England. 


128  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

The  Crystal  Palace,  formerly-  a  part  of  the  Exhibi- 
tion of  1851  in  Hyde  Park  is  an  object  of  great  inter- 
est. The  whole  cost  has  amounted  to  nearly  5,000, 
000  dollars.  It  is  1,600  feet  long,  380  feet  wide,  and 
nearly  200  feet  in  height  at  the  center.  The  Palace 
has  a  large  collection  of  almost  everything.  The 
grounds  cover  about  200  acres  and  are  well  laid  out 
and  have  the  finest  fountains  in  the  world. 

In  Tetter  Lane  is  where  Richard  Baxter  lectured 
and  preached  in  1675.  Whitefriars  is  near  here.  A 
Carmilite  convent  once  stood  here,  and  hither  insolv- 
ent debtors  flocked  and  found  safe  refuge  for  a  time, 
and  as  no  warrant  could  reach  them  except  one  issued 
by  the  Lord  Chief  Justice,  the  street  soon  became 
peopled  with  thieves  and  libertines.  It  is  at  this  spot 
where  "Jack  the  Ripper''  put  in  his  wholesale  work 
of  cutting  open  females.  We  saw  the  identical  place 
where  three  of  the  murders  were  committed.  It  is 
said  that  he  committed  more  than  twenty  of  these 
atrocious  crimes  before  it  was  stopped,  and  it  has 
never  been  known  just  who  was  the  person. 

St  John's  Gate  is  a  relic  of  the  old  Priory.  Above 
the  gates  are  rooms  once  occupied  by  the  founder  of 
the  Gentleman's  Magazine,  which  numbered  Dr.  John- 
son among  its  contributors,  and  here  the  grandfather 
of  J.  Wilkes  Booth  was  buried. 

Through  Bishop's  gate  we  pass  St.  Botolph's  church 
near  which  is  Houndsditch,  out  of  which  extends  the 
well  known  "Petticoat  Lane." 

It  is  said  the  Old  City  of  London  is  the  most  won- 
derful place  in  the  world.  It  is  the  smallest  but  the 
most  valuable.  It  has  an  area  of  one  square  mile  but 


LONDON    BRIDGE. 

produces  a  rental  of  20,000,000  dollars  annually. 
Land  has  been  sold  in  this  area  for  over  3,000  dollars 
for  a  square  yard  of  ground. 

We  must  speak  of  London  Bridge.  Although  it  is 
not  much  of  a  bridge  to  be  built  at  this  age  of  the 
world.  It  is  an  arched  bridge  of  five  spans  of  about 
200  feet  each,  built  exclusively  of  stone.  It  is  about 
1,000  feet  long  and  80  feet  wide.  It  has  a  track  16 
feet  wide  on  each  side  for  foot  travel,  and  about  fifty 
feet  in  the  middle  for  teams.  It  is  its  history  that 
makes  it  so  famous.  It  is  said  more  suicides  have 
been  committed  here  than  any  other  place  on  the  face 
of  the  earth.  A  leap  from  this  bridge  means  death, 
and  that  was  what  the  leaper  sought  for.  Many  heart 
thrilling  tales  are  told  in  connection  with  this  bridge, 
but  we  have  not  the  space  for  them. 

The  Hampton  Court  Palace  is  a  fine  structure.  The 
gardens  are  laid  out  after  the  French  style  and  pre- 
sent many  well  shaded  avenues.  Back  of  the  palace 
is  the  Royal  Bushy  Park  containing  11,000  acres, 
and  filled  with  magnificent  forest  trees. 

Greenwich  is  picturesquely  located;  and  has  the 
National  Observatory.  The  river  terrace  is  890  feet 
long  and  lias  two  granite  monuments.  The  hall  is 
106  feet  long,  50  feet  wide  and  50  feet  high. 

Opposite  Greenwich  is  where  the  Great  Eastern 
was  built.  There  are  very  extensive  Docks  at  this 
point.  Near  this  point  is  the  Blackwall  Tunnel.  It 
is  6,200  feet  long,  24  feet  in  diameter  and  cost  about 
7,000,000  dollars. 

Eppirig  Forest  has  3,000  acres  and  the  grounds  are 
used  for  public  recreation. 


130  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

St.  Albans'  chief  attraction  is  the  venerable  old  Ab- 
bey Church.  It  is  550  feet  long,  recently  1,000,000 
dollars  has  been  expended  upon  it>  and  it  is  now  a 
fine  church. 

Windsor  Castle,the  principal  residence  of  the  Queen 
is  the  most  magnificent  royal  domain  in  the  world. 
The  Round  Tower  stands  on  an  eminence  42  feet  high; 
the  battlements  are  80  feet  in  height,  and  a  splendid 
view  can  be  had  of  Windsor  and  surrounding  country. 
The  Royal  Carriages  and  equipments  are  kept  here. 
On  the  east  of  Round  Tower  is  a  bronze  statue  of 
Charles  the  second. 

We  have  happened  upon  some  notes  in  regard  to 
some  of  the  bridges  which  span  the  River  Thames. 

London  Bridge  is  a  little  less  than  1,000  feet  long 
and  cost  about  thirteen  millions  dollars.  The  south- 
wark  Bridge  is  708  feet  long;  it  is  built  of  cast  iron, 
and  cost  four  million  dollars.  Blackfriars  Bridge  is 
1,277  feet  long  and  cost  1,600,000  dollars.  Waterloo 
Bridge  1,380  feet  long  and  cost  over  $1,000,000. 

The  St.  Thomas  Hospital  is  opposite  or  near  this 
last  named  bridge.  It  consists  of  seven  blocks  of 
buildings  and  four  stories  high,  and  will  accommodate 
600  patients;  also  the  House  of  parliament  is  near 
this  bridge,  and  the  Smith  Square  with  the  St.  John's 
Church  in  the  center. 

The  Somerset  House,  stands  near  Waterloo  Bridge. 
It  is  750  feet  long  and  cost  two  and  a  half  million 
dollars.  It  is  now  occupied  by  various  government 
offices.  The  wills  of  Dr.  Johnson,  Sir  Isaac  Newton, 
Shakespeare,  and  the  great  Napoleon,  with  many  oth- 
ers are  here  in  keeping. 


THE     STREETS    OF    LONDON         _,. 

The  Royal  Court  of  Justice  has  over  a  thousand 
apartments,  and  the  central  hall  is  283  feet  long,  48 
feet  wide,  and  80  feet  high  and  cost  nearly  five  mil- 
lions of  dollars. 

Harnstead  Heath  has  an  area  of  240  acres,  and  lies 
430  feet  above  the  sea  level.  A  fine  view  of  St.  Paul's, 
and  the  towers  of  St.  Stephen's,  and  the  glitering  roof 
of  the  Crystal  Palace  can  be  seen  from  this  point.  In 
our  return  we  passed  through  High  Street,  Hamstead 
Road  to  Whitefield,  thence  to  Oxford  and  St.  Giles 
streets.  The  New  Oxford  was  built  in  1849  at  a  cost 
of  1,500,000  dollars.  The  St.  Giles  was  until  the 
opening  of  this  new  street,  one  of  the  most  disreputa- 
ble and  dangerous  portions  of  London.  Many  of  the 
streets  are  still  narrow  and  dangerous. 

The  Seven  Dials,  seven  streets  diverge  from  this 
point.  Dealers  in  dogs,  birds  and  fish  have  their 
headquarters  here,  This  point  was  once  infested  by 
ruffians  of  a  low  and  brutal  order,  and  no  doubt  there 
are  many  left,  but  the  city  council  with  their  police 
force  are  making  this  section  quite  safe  for  any  to 
pass  through.  It  is  near  this  point  where  "Jack  the 
Riper"  got  in  the  most  of  his  work. 

The  Bank  of  England  occupies  an  area  of  over  three 
acres,  and  is  lighted  by  skylights  and  court  windows, 
and  has  more  the  appearance  of  a  prison  than  a  bank. 
The  affairs  are  controlled  by  a  Governor  at  the  head, 
and  a  staff  of  about  a  thousand  workers.  They  have 
an  issue  of  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  million  dol- 
lars in  notes.  In  the  vaults  are  always  found  not 
less  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  million  dollars  in 
gold  and  silver. 


132  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  Exchange  is  308  feet  long,  175  feet  wide,  and 
53  feet  high. 

The  Mansion  House  is  where  the  Lord  Mayor  re- 
sides and  holds  his  Court  in  one  of  the  halls.  The 
Corporation  consists  of  the  Mayor,  26  aldermen,  2 
sheriffs,  260  common  councilmen,  and  the  livery  num- 
bering about  10,000. 

Kensal  Green  Cemetery,  comprises  70  acres,  and 
contains  about  40,000  graves,  and  is  now  about  two- 
thirds  filled.  Some  noted  persons  are  interred  here. 
Among  whom  are  the  Duke  of  Sussex  and  his  sisters, 
the  daughter  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  and  Thomas  Hood. 

On  our  return  we  pass  Vanity  Fair,  where  Sir  Rich- 
ard Wallace  had  his  magnificent  art  collection  valued 
at  twenty  million  dollars.  This  collection  passed  to 
his  widow  and  was  bequeathed  to  the  nation,  and 
Parliament  voted  400,000  dollars  to  purchase  the 
house  and  its  surroundings. 

As  FurnivaPs  Inn,  the  Pickwick  Papers,  Oliver 
Twist,  and  Nicholas  Nickleby  were  written  by  Charles 
Dickens,  and  at  Staple  Inn  Dr.  Johnson  wrote  "Ras- 
selas."  All  near  Crook's  Shop. 

Holborn  Viaduct  is  an  iron  bridge  spanning  Far- 
ringdon  Street.  It  is  112  feet  long,  From  here  one 
can  look  beyond  the  Black  friars  bridge  and  to  the 
north  to  the  Smithfield  meat  market,  and  the  Impe- 
rial Hotel.  Snow  Hill  leads  down  to  Smithfield. 
Here  is  where  Nicholas  Nickleby  started  for  Dothe- 
bo}rs  Hall,  and  just  bejTond  is  the  Church  of  the  Sep- 
ulchre whose  bell  always  tolled  when  an  execution 
was  to  take  place.  Roger  Ascham,  tutor  of  Lady 
Jane  Gray,  and  Captain  John  Smith  are  buried  here. 


NEWGATE    PRISON.  133 

The  latter  proving  untrue  to  the  daughter  of  a  king 
who  saved  his  life  from  the  vengeance  of  her  father 
Powhattan.  In  Pie  Lane  running  out  of  Giltspur 
street,  the  great  fire  of  1666  was  finally  conquered. 

The  massive  walls  of  Newgate  Prison  on  the  right 
attracts  the  attention.  The  more  imposing  facade  is 
in  the  Old  Bailey,  along  which  it  extends  300  feet. 
The  prison  is  now  used  solely  for  the  detention  of 
felons.  Many  a  worthy  and  unworthy  prisoner  has 
been  within  its  wall.  Daniel  De  Foe,  Titus  Gates, 
gentle  William  Penn,  and  lawless  Jack  Sheppard, 
with  Gordon  who  fired  the  prison,  have  been  within 
its  walls.  After  Tyburn  ceased  to  be  the  scene  of  ex- 
ecutions, criminals  were  for  a  long  time  publicly 
hanged  in  front  of  Newgate  prison  in  the  old  Bailey. 
Opposite  the  Prison  was  the  home  of  the  celebrated 
thief  and  thieftaker,  Jonathan  Wild  who  was  hung 
himself  in  1725. 

A  little  further  on  we  come  to  the  Hall  of  Christ's 
Hospital  or  the  Blue  Coat  School.  Here  the  boys 
wear  blue  gowns,  yellow  stockings  and  knee  breeches 
and  go  bareheaded  all  the  year  round,  the  school  has 
accommodations  for  1,200  boys. 

Leaving  Newgate  we  enter  Cheapside.  Here  is 
where  Lord  John  Gilpin  took  his  renowned  Ride. 
Farther  on  we  pass  into  Adlergate  street,  we  find  the 
General  Post  Office,  and  St.  Paul's  churchyard,  and 
in  Milk  Street  near  by  is  where  Sir  Thomas  More 
first  saw  the  light  of  day.  Bow  Church  is  here  loca- 
ted. The  Tower  of  this  Church  can  be  compared  with 
no  other.  It  is  255  feet  high  and  has  a  brazen  drag- 
on 8  feet  in  length  on  top  of  the  spire. 


CHAPTER  XX. 


WESTMINISTER    ABBEY. 

As  we  spent  considerable  time  in  examining  this 
massive  structure,  we  shall  now  attempt  to  give  a 
short  additional  chapter  to  what  we  have  already.  We 
can  not  give  an  exaustive  description  of  any  part  of  it 
and  do  it  justice,  as  it  would  take  a  volume  of  several 
hundred  pagc:s;  and  all  we  shall  attempt  to  do  will  be 
to  give  a  few  remarks  on  some  particular  points. 

As  it  has  already  been  stated,  the  Abbey  is  suppos- 
ed to  have  been  located  upon  the  rains  of  an  old  Pa. 
gan  Temple.  It  seems  that  there  is  no  record  of 
when  the  foundation  of  the  first  Abbey  was  laid,  but 
previous  to  616,  the  king  order  the  Bishop  of  London 
to  dedicate  it  on  a  certain  day  and  the  night  before 
the  given  day,  that  St.  Peter  himself  accompanied  by 
angels,  and  surrounded  by  a  glorious  appearance  of 
burning  lights,  met  together  in  the  main  hall  and 
consecrated  it.  Thus  the  legend  runs,  and  it  was  be- 
lieved by  the  whole  church  for  hundreds  of  years, 
and  is  believed  by  many  to-day. 

The  Abbey  is  375  feet  long  from  east  to  west,  and 
200  feet  from  north  to  south.  It  is  100  feet  to  the  in- 
ner roof,  and  145  feet  to  the  lantern.  The  cost  is  not 

134 


THE    ABBEY    DESCRIBED. 


135 


known  and  cannot  be  estimated  with  any  accuracy. 
We  might  say  the  Abbey  proper,  has  cost  ten  million 
dollars,  but  the  tombs,  statuary  and  other  things  con- 
nected with  it  would  cost  twice  as  much  more. 

The  Organ  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  It 
has  four  cases,  one  on  each  side  of  the  main  arch  and 
is  so  arranged  that  the  performer  has  full  control  of 
the  55  stops  which  the  organ  contains.  The  altar 
where  service  is  held,  is  155  feet  long  and  36  feet  wide. 

In  the  Reredos,  are  many  fine  sculptures,  all  of 
scriptural  designs,  such  as  the  Annunciation,  Birth, 
Adoration,  Baptismal,  Crucifixion,  Resurrection  and 
Ascension,  also  a  large  picture  of  the  Last  Supper. 

There  are  man}7  painted  glass  windows,  all  rep- 
resenting some  part  of  the  uTe  Deurn."  There  are 
eleven  Chapels  on  the  interior,  outside  of  the  main 
arch.  They  are  all  dedicated  to  some  saint. 

There  is  a  list  of  several  hundred  noted  person- 
ages who  are  interred  here. 

It  seems  to  have  been  the  last  resting  place  since 
1500,  and  for  some  time,  back  to  616,  for  those  who 
had  been  closely  connected  with  the  church.  We  are 
unable  to  give  many  names,  but  among  those  who  we 
shall  speak  of  are  Sebert,  King  of  Saxons  and  wife, 
who  died  in  615.  There  are  13  Sovereigns  whose  re- 
mains are  reposing  within  these  venerable  walls,  and 
14  Queens,  once  reigning  Sovereigns  or  wives  of  kings, 
embracing  a  period  of  more  than  twelve  hundred 
years. 

The  Chapel  of  Henry  VII.  engrafted  on  to  the  Ab- 
bey is  115  feet  long,  79  feet  wide,  and  two  of  the  tur- 
rets are  101  feet  high. 


136  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

In  the  chapel  of  St.  Edwards  we  find  a  sword  sup- 
posed to  have  been  carried  by  him  previous  to  1350. 
It  is  seven  feet  long  and  weighs  eighteen  pounds. 

In  the  Chapel  of  Islip  we  find  the  monument  of 
General  Wolfe  who  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  Quebec, 
North  America,  on  September  13,  1759.  We  find  a 
medallion  to  Charles  Robert  Darwin,  born  1809,  died 
1882,  buried  near  Sir  John  Hershel,  also  the  expres- 
sive monument  of  Sir  Isaac  Newton.  Over  him  is  a 
large  globe,  whereon  is  delineated  the  course  of  the 
comet  in  1680.  He  died  1725,  aged  84  years. 
Here  are  the  tombs  of  of  John  Wesley  and  his  brother 
Charles.  The  latter  died  in  1788  and  the  former  in 
1791,  aged  88  years. 

We  find  in  the  poets'  corner  the  tombs  of  Addison, 
Macaulay,  Handel,  Burns,  Shakespeare,  Milton  and 
many  others. 

We  shall  now  leave  Westminister,  and,  in  fact,  Lon- 
don, as  we  are  now  on  our  way  for  Edinburgh. 

The  country  between  those  points  is  very  fine. 
Some  parts  are  quite  broken,  while  at  other  points  it 
will  be  nearly  level.  The  most  of  the  productive  land 
is  being  farmed,  some  in  grain,  others  in  vegetables, 
though  th^re  seems  to  be  much  of  the  land  used  for 
stock  growing,  We  see  man}'  fine  cattle  of  almost  all 
the  different  breeds.  We  passed  through  the  home  of 
the  Durhams,  and  of  the  Aberdeen  and  Angus  Cattle, 
also  of  the  Shropshire  and  other  downe  sheep.  The 
land  is  generally  owned  in  large  tracts  by  rich  men. 
From  five  to  twenty  thousand  acres  are  often  controll- 
ed by  one  man,  and  he  leases  it  to  another,  and  he  to 
others,  and  those  who  do  the  work  are  often  the  third 


DESCRIPTION   OF    TOWNS.  137 

or  fourth  party  from  the  landlord  or  owner  of  the 
property,  and  with  this  complication  it  becomes  neces- 
sary that  each  should  fulfill  their  part  of  every  con- 
tract. Good  lands  command  big  rent,  as  high  as  15 
dollars  per  acre.  We  saw  that  much  of  the  stock  is 
kept  by  the  soiling  plan,  which  they  seem  to  make 
profitable  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

There  are  many  fine  things  to  be  seen  on  this  trip. 
There  are  many  collections  and  groups  of  buildings 
upon  these  farms,  and  at  the  different  towns  and  cities 
we  pass  through  are  many  castles  and  churches. 
This  is  a  land  of  churches.  More  money  has  been 
spent  for  places  of  worship  in  England  than  in  any 
other  place  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  At  Peterborough 
there  is  a  very  fine  cathedral  which  cost  up  in  the 
millions  of  dollars.  Another  at  St  Albans,  another 
at  Lincoln.  We  find  an  ancient  abbey  at  Crowland. 
At  Hatfield  is  a  splendid  old  English  baronial  resi- 
dence. 

At  York  can  be  seen  the  York  Minster  which  was 
begun  in  Saxon  times  and  rebuilt  at  different  times 
from  1290  for  the  next  2  or  300  years  and  is  now  un- 
surpassed in  architectural  grandeur. 

At  Kirkstall  we  find  an  Abbey  which  dates  back 
seven  centuries.  The  Rievault  Abbey  is  a  quaint  and 
interesting  place  of  worship.  Near  Cumberland  lakes 
we  find  Barnard  Castle.  It  was  built  in  1098  and  is  a 
splendid  relic  of  the  Feudal  times,  dating  back  to  Wil- 
liam the  Red  of  England  and  William  the  Lion  of 
Scotland.  At  Durham  we  find  a  rugged  and  majestic 
castle  and  cathedral.  No  grander  building  than  this 
can  be  found  in  all  Europe.  This  is  also  the  home  of 


138 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


the  short  horn  cattle;  and  some  very  fine  specimens  of 
that  breed  may  be  seen  at  this  place.  Northumbrian 
has  a  famous  abbey,  and  at  this  point  may  be  plainly 
seen  the  Roman  wall  built  by  Hadrian  in  121  to  250 
A.  D.,  to  keep  back  the  warlike  Picts.  It  is  83  miles, 
long  and  runs  from  Tyne  to  the  Solway. 

There  are  many  other  things  which  might  be  named, 
but  as  we  are  now  in  Edinburgh  we  shall  tell  what  we 
have  seen  there.  Our  first  visit  was  to  the  Museum 
of  Science  and  Art.  This  is  a  building  erected  in 
1861.  It  is  400  feet  long,  200  feet  wide  and  about  90 
feet  high.  The  central  hall  is  350  feet  long  by  70 
feet  wide.  The  ground  floor  is  occupied  by  materials 
for  the  construction  of  "houses.  The  galleries  contain 
materials  used  in  arts  and  manufactures  from  the 
earliest  to  the  present  time.  The  east  end  contains  a 
lecture  room  where  scientific  lectures  are  delivered. 
The  Natural  History  department  is  well  filled,  so  also 
is  the  College  and  Museum.  The  specimens  of  birds 
are  very  numerous  and  quite  complete,  amounting  to 
nearly  ten  thousand.  The  largest  skeleton  of  a  whale 
that  has  ever  been  preserved  is  here,  it  being  about 
80  feet  long.  The  geological  collection  is  very  large 
and  embraces  the  collection  made  by  Hugh  Miller. 
The  School  of  Arts  was  founded  in  1821,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  successful  in  the  kingdom. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  Edinburgh  Castle,  which  is 
perched  on  a  rock  almost  perpendicular  on  three  sides. 
It  is  300  feet  above  the  valley,  and  445  feet  above  sea 
level.  The  claims  of  this  fortress  for  the  sightseers 
are  almost  unrivalled.  Most  writers  are  agreed  that 


EDINBURGH    CASTLE  139 

it  was  fortified  before  the  Romans  came  to  this  part  of 
Scotland  in  the  early  centuries. 

The  only  approach  to  the  castle  is  on  the  east  side 
from  High  street.  The  parade  ground  in  front  of  the 
castle  is  no  longer  large  enough  to  drill  the  troops, 
and  the  Queen's  Park  behind  the  palace  is  used. 

In  crossing  the  ground  in  front  we  get  an  extended 
view  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country.  We  can 
see  the  Herlot  Hospital,  the  Grayfriars  Church,  the 
Royal  Infirmary;  and  the  Braids  and  Blackford  Hills. 
The  Esplanade  was  at  one  time  used  as  a  place  of 
public  execution. 

The  moat  was  used  as  a  dry  ditch,  no  doubt,  as 
water  could  not  have  been  had  at  that  height.  The 
portcullis  gate  was  surmounted  by  the  Argyle  Tower. 
The  hinges  of  the  gates  are  still  in  the  wall.  The 
Tower  was  used  as  a  state  prison  till  near  the  close  of 
last  century. 

Marquis  of  Argyle  was  imprisoned  in  it  previous  to 
his  execution,  his  head  taking  the  place  of  Montrose 
on  the  Tolbeeth. 

The  Argyle  Battery  was  used  for  some  years  by  the 
Artillery  Volunteers  for  drill,  and  Royal  salutes  were 
fired  from  here. 

St.  Margaret's  Chapel  is  the  oldest  building  in  Ed- 
inburgh. It  dates  from  the  eleventh  century.  It  has 
now  stained  windows,  gifts  from  her  Majesty  and  oth- 
ers. Mons  Meg,  a  piece  of  ordnance,  was  burst  in 
1685  while  firing  a  salute. 

-  The  Half-Moon  Battery  was  formerly  occupied  by 
the  St.  David's  Tower.  Here  stands  the  electric  clock 
which  fires  the  one  o'clock  gun. 


140 


PARIS      EXPOSITION. 


The  Crown  room  is  strong  and  vaulted,  its  chimney 
and  windows  are  secured  by  iron  bars,  and  the  en- 
trance by  two  strong  qloors  of  oak  and  iron.  In  the 
center  of  the  small  apartment  is  the  Regalia,  which 
had  been  secreted  from  the  public  in  the  oak  chest 
now  shown,  from  1707  till  1819,  The  "Regalia"  con- 
sists of  three  articles :  the  crown,  the  scepter,  and  the 
sword  of  state. 

The  crown  is  remarkably  elegant.  It  weighs  fifty 
six  ounces.  The  lower  part  consists  of  two  circles, 
the  under  much  broader  than  the  one  above  it,  both 
are  composed  of  pure  gold,  the  uppermost  is  surmount- 
ed by  a  range  of  fleur-de-lis  intermingled  with  crosses 
and  knobs  of  gold,  topped  with  large  pearls. 

The  diadem  was  probably  made  for  Bruce  after  he 
had  established  the  full  and  undisputed  sovereignty 
of  Scotland  after  his  victory  in  1311. 

The  scepter  is  a  slender  rod  of  silver,  about  thirty- 
nine  inches  long,  the  stalk  being  divided  by  three 
rings,  upon  which  is  supported  three  small  figures 
representing  the  Virgin,  Andrew  and  James. 

The  sword  of  state  was  presented  by  Pope  Julius 
II.  The  workmanship  of  the  sword  is  of  a  fanciful 
and  elegant  description,  and  is  about  five  feet  long. 
The  handle  is  of  silver,  gilded  and  highly  ornamented. 
The  scabbard  is  of  crimson  velvet  covered  with  filigree 
work  and  silver,  the  ornaments  being  oak  leaves. 

Queen  Mary's  apartment,  the  entrance  to  these 
rooms  is  in  thecorner.  The  ante- room  is  unfurnished, 
and  the  only  decorations  are  a  few  pictures,  among 
which  is  a  portrait  of  Queen  Mary  from  the  Boblian 
Library. 


REFERENCE  PAGE  54. 


141 


PARLIAMENT    BAIL.  143 

This  part  of  the  castle  was  built  by  Queen  Mary 
in  1535  on  the  edge  of  the  precipitous  rock. 

Parliament  Hall  was  built  in  1484,  but  it  is  sup- 
posed there  was  a  similar  hall  existing  on  the  site  at 
a  former  time.  In  earlier  days  it  was  used  as  a  cere- 
monial chamber,  but  was  afterwards  turned  into  a 
hospital;  but  from  an  appeal  from  Lord  Napier,  Mr. 
Nelson  came  forward  and  had  it  reconstructed,  and  it 
is  now  used  for  military  festivals. 

In  the  Hall  is  exhibited  an  interesting  collection  of 
old  Scotish  weapons  and  armour  and  a  fireplace  in  the 
east  end. 

There  is  a  dungeon  below  the  Queen's  Room  partly 
excavated  out  of  a  solid  rock,  and  at  the  south  side  of 
the  castle  there  are  other  dungeons  in  which  were  con- 
fined some  of  the  prisoners  taken  in  the  wars  with 
Napoleon. 

Near  here  is  what  is  left  of  the  West  Bow.  When 
Oliver  Goldsmith  studied  medicine  here  it  was  a 
fashionable  place,  and  genteel  balls  were  held  here. 
When  one  entered  the  room  he  would  see  one  end  of 
the  room  taken  up  with  the  ladies,  and  the  gentlemen 
would  be  at  the  other  end,  and  there  is  no  intercourse 
between  the  sexes.  After  a  time  the  lady  directress 
selects  a  gentleman  and  lady  to  walk  a  minuet,  which 
they  do  with  a  formality  approaching  despondency. 
After  five  or  six  couples  have  thus  walked  the  gauntlet 
all  stand  up  for  a  contra  dance,  each  gentleman  being 
furnished  with  a  partner  by  the  directress.  They 
dance  to  their  heart's  content,  but  say  nothing  and 
thus  ends  the  ball. 

Magdalene  Chapel  is  an  interesting  old  church,  and 


144  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

is  surmounted  by  a  fine  tower' and  spire.     It  was  built 
early  in  1400. 

Near  here  is  the  house  where  Burke  and  Hare  com 
mitted  a  series  of  murders  for   the  purpose  of  selling 
the  bodies  for  dissection. 

Farther  down  Saxon  Market  is  where  Robert  Burns 
first  found  lodgings  when  he  came  to  Edinburgh  in  1786. 

The  Bank  of  Scotland  has  been  renovated,  and  is 
now  one  of  the  strongest  banks  in  England. 

St.  Giles'  Church  is  an  old  relic  of  the  early  days. 
It  is  erected  upon  the  site  of  an  old  church  of  the 
ninth  century  It  has  had  its  ups  and  downs,  but  is 
now  a  very  pretty  church. 

The  old  City  Cross  is  an  object  of  national  interest, 
venerable  in  history  and  tradition.  It  was  disman- 
tled in  1756,  and  the  pillar  thrown  to  the  ground,  but 
about  50  years  ago  is  was  raised  upon  a  narrow  base 
near  St.  Giles'  Church  where  it  now  stands. 

The  House  of  Parliament  has  a  hall  125  feet  long 
and  49  feet  wide.  The  Advocate  Libra^  contains  up- 
wards of  150,000  volumes.  The  library  is  accessible 
to  the  public.  The  Signet  Library  contains  50,000 
volumes,  embracing  many  rare  works  of  British 
history. 

The  John  Knox  House  is  situated  on  this  street, 
and  on  the  front  of  this  large  old  fashioned  house  may 
be  seen  the  inscription  "Lufe  God  abuf  all,  and  \e 
nj'chtbour  as  yislf."  Near  here  the  murder  of  Begbie 
produced  a  profound  sensation.  He  was  one  of  the 
bank  porters,and  was  stabbed  to  the  heart  with  a  knife 
in  broad  day  light  and  20,000  dollars  taken  from  him. 
The  assassin  was  never  discovered. 


COURT  HOUSE  AND  PRISON. 

On  St.  John's  Street  is  the  splendid  residence  of 
Lord  Monboddo  and  his  beautiful  daughter.  The 
Lord  propounded  the  theory  that  the  human  family 
were  descendants  of  the  monkey  tribe,  long  before  this 
theory  was  proclaimed  by  the  philosophers  of  the 
present  generation.  And  it  seems  that  from  the  il- 
liberality  of  his  contemporaries,  the  only  effect  of  his 
doctrine  was  to  expose  him  to  the  frequent  jocular 
request:  "Show  us  your  tail,  Monboddo." 

At  No.  10  was  the  residence  of  James  Ballantyne, 
the  printer  of  the  Waverley  Novels  by  Sir  Walter 
Scott;  whose  commercial  failure  involved  Sir  Walter 
to  such  an  extent  that  it  clouded  the  last  years  of  his 
life,  from  which  he  never  fully  recovered. 

The  Court  House,  Prison,  Church,  and  Churchyard 
of  Tolbooth  are  all  here.  The  stone  pillar  where  cer- 
tain offenders,  such  as  scolds  and  slanderers  were 
fastened  by  the  "jougs" — an  iron  collar.  The  iron 
staple  to  which  the  jougs  were  fastened  may  still  be 
seen  upon  ths  pillar. 

When  Robert  Burns  visited  Edinburgh  in  1786,  he 
erected  a  monument  to  a  brother  in  the  "Muses," 
one  Robert  Ferguson. 

Holyrood  Chapel  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  early 
English  style.  In  this  Chapel,  several  Kings  of  Scot- 
laud  were  crowned,  and  several  marriages  were  con- 
sumated,  also  the  remains  of  kings,  queens,  and  other 
potentates  are  interred  within  the  walls  of  this  noted 
Chapel. 

The  University  was  a  100  years  in  building.  It  has 
a  library  of  130,000  volumes.  The  library  hail  is 
200  feet  long  and  50  feet  wide. 


146  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  Royal  College  of  Surgeons  is  near  here.  The 
Museum  is  chiefly  illustrative  of  comparative  anato- 
my, and  has  an  extensive  and  valuable  collection  of 
pathological  specimens. 

In  the  Greyfriar's  Churchyard  we  find  a  monument 
stating  that  about  18,000  persons  were  murdered  one 
way  and  another,  and  were  buried  under  this  tomb- 
stone. Many  of  them  being  noblemen,  gentlemen, 
and  ministers  of  the  faith  of  the  Covenanters. 

Several  hundred  Covenanters  who  were  taken  pris- 
oners, were  lodged  in  the  corner  of  the  churchyard 
with  no  protection  from  the  elements,  and  four  oun- 
ces of  bread  with  one  mouthful  of  water,  were  kept 
here  for  five  months,  and  finally  were  shipped  to  Bar- 
badoes,  but  were  wrecked  on  the  Orkney  Islands,  and 
through  the  inhumanity  of  the  Captain,  only  forty 
persons  escaped. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Blind  is  a  handsome  and  com- 
modious building.  This  Asylum  is  the  oldest  and 
largest  institution  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  Three 
hundred  persons  are  educated  here. 

Burn's  Monument  is  a  fine  structure  some  80  feet 
high.  Upon  a  base  18  feet  high,  is  erected  a  hall,  en- 
closed with  16  fluted  pillars  surmounted  with  a  dome. 
It  produces  a  very  pleasing  effect. 

Nelson's  Monument  is  a  very  prominent  structure. 
It  is  100  feet  high  and  the  rock  platform  upon  which 
it  stands  is  350  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  There 
is  a  time  gun  in  the  Castle  fired  at  one  o'clock  from 
this  quarter,  by  dropping  a  ball  from  the  flagstaff. 

Scott's  Monument  is  the  largest  and  most  elabo- 
rate structure  of  the  kind  that  we  have  seen  in  this 


FAREWELL    TO  EDINBURGH.  147 

It  is  200  feet  high,  and  is  an  open  Gothic  Tower.  It 
cost  about  100,000  dollars.  It  is  very  tastily  arrang- 
ed with  statues  in  nearly  all  the  niches. 

We  have  now  noted  Edinburgh  as  far  as  our  space 
will  admit,  and  must  uhie"  away  to  Glasgow,  and  in 
our  general  remarks  of  Scotland  we  may  refer  again 
to  Edinburgh. 


CHAPTER   XXL 


GLASGOW,    SCOTLAND. 

In  our  journey  from  Edinburgh  there  is  much  to  be 
seen  which  cannot  fail  to  interest  the  traveler.  The 
country  in  places  is  quite  broken,  but  we  think  very 
fertile.  The  buildings  in  this  section  are  more  com- 
modious and  better  built  than  in  many  other  parts  of 
the  country.  I  think  there  is  more  of  the  land  owned 
b}T  the  poorer  class  of  the  people  and  worked  by  them. 

But  we  find  that  nearly  all  the  land  in  England, 
Scotland  and  Ireland  is  owned  by  the  few,  and  is  be- 
ing worked  under  a  lease.  The  owner  having  any- 
where from  5,000  to  20,000  acres. 

It  is  very  rare  that  the  owner  of  any  of  these  lands 
work  or  even  live  on  them.  We  heard  a  native  of 
Scotland  say  that  a  Lord  or  Gentleman  whose  income 


3.48  PARTS      EXPOSITION'. 

did  not  exceed  100,000  dollars  was  a  pauper;  so  you 
will  see  that  to  be  a  real  Gentleman,  and  get  an  in- 
come from  one  to  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  a 
year,  he  must  have  at  least  20,000  acres  of  land.  We 
find  that  professional  and  tradesmen  are  not  counted 
as  gentlemen.  To  be  a  real  gentleman,  a  person  may 
or  may  not  have  a  title,  but  he  must  have  real  estate, 
that  is,  landed  property  enough  so  the  rents  shall 
support  his  family  without  any  labor  from  them. ' 

There  is  a  middle  class  of  citizens  who  are  fairly 
welloff,who  are  mechanics,merchants  and  men  of  some 
profession,  and  these  may  be  owners  of  houses  and 
Railroad  Stocks;  but  they  do  not  nor  can  they  belong 
to  and  associate  with  the  upper  grade. 

As  far  as  we  could  learn  the  upper  class  are  non- 
producing  persons.  They  do  not  labor.  A  few  may 
have  professions,  but  do  not  follow  them  for  a  lively- 
hood,  as  they  make  very  indifferent  officers.  As  they 
are  raised  in  idleness  and  usualh' do  not  have  that 
energ3T  which  is  required  to  make  good  public  ser- 
vants, besides  it  would  be  below  the  dignity  of  a  gen- 
tleman to  do  any  labor. 

But  as  we  are  now  near  Glasgow  let  us  give  a  short 
sketch  of  this  busy  city.  The  buildings  are  of  much 
interest,  being  one  of  the  few  cities  which  escaped 
much  of  the  rough  iconoclastic  work  of  the  Reform  a- 
tion.  The  Cathedral  .occupies  ah  isolated  position 
which  gives  it  a  solemn  aspect.  The  crypt  of  the 
Church  is  one  of  the  richest  specimens  of  early  Eng- 
lish architecture  in  Scotland. 

The  city  of  Glasgow  is  the  nearest  to  an  American 
city  of  any  we  have  visited  in  the  united  kingdom 


CITY    OF    GLASGOW. 

Generally  the  streets  are  quite  broad,  well  paved 
with  fair  side- walks,  and  the  city  is  kept  uncommon- 
ly clean, 

The  Hotel  accommodations  are  amply  sufficient,  and 
are  as  good  as  any  we  have  found  on  our  trip.  Near 
here  is  Paisley  the  seat  of  the  thread  industry,  the 
birth  place  of  William  Wallace  being  near  here,  and 
James  Walls;  also  around  it  hangs  the  reminiscence 
of  Robert  Burns;  from  the  fact  that  in  the  West 
Church  Burial  Ground  are  interred  the  remains  of 
his  "Highland  Mary,"  whose  grave  is  marked  by  a 
handsomely  carved  monument. 

From  here  we  take  rail  and  steamer  for  Belfast, 
Ireland.  We  took  the  trip  across  the  Irish  Channel 
in  daylight.  It  is  a  very  pleasant  trip  to  make.  Land 
is  seen  on  one  or  both  sides  the  entire  trip,  sometimes 
sailing  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  it. 

We  were  not  very  favorably  impressed  with  Belfast. 
It  is  located  on  a  low  piece  of  country.  Its  shipping 
facilities  are  good,  it  has  good  wharfage,  dry-docks, 
and  other  conveniences  for  building  and  repairing 
vessels.  The  rail  way  is  far  separated  from  the  ship- 
landing  and  requires  a  transfer  of  over  two  miles. 
We  did  not  have  a  good  view  of  the  city  as  it  rained 
the  most  of  the  time  while  there.  We  found  com- 
fortable quarters  at  reasonable  prices  not  far  away 
from  the  railroad  station.  The  city  is  fairly  laid  out 
with  good  width  to  the  streets,  with  some  parks  and 
squares;  and  some  of  the  stores  had  fine  large  show 
windows  and  made  a  fine  display  of  their  goods. 

Their  style  of  goods  iirc  quite  different  from  ours. 
We  noticed  this  in  Scotland  as  well  as  in  Ireland. 


150 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


It  is  Scotch  plaids,  and  emeralds  and  Irish  greens. 
The  style  of  their  clothing,  boots  and  shoes,  hats, 
oaps  and  in  fact  almost  everything  they  wear  is  so 
much  different  that  scarcely  a  comparison  can  be 
made. 

But  in  comparing  prices  we  are  quite  .sure  that  the 
same  quality  of  goods  can  be  bought  in  the  city  of 
Sandusky  for  from  ten  to  twent}7  per  cent  less  mon- 
ey than  they  can  be  bought  in  England,  Scotland  or 
Ireland. 

That  the  quality  of  goods  for  sale  on  the  general 
market  is  any  better,  we  are  hardly  prepared  to  sa}', 
though  we  are  quite  sure  that  we  did  not  see  as  many 
light  weight  goods  as  we  have  on  our  market.  The 
reason  of  that  may  be  because  their  country  is  ten  de- 
grees farther  north  than  Ohio  and  our  central  states. 
Also  we  did  not  see  so  much  real  shoddy  goods.  Of 
course  shoddjr  is  made  and  sold  to  the  trade  for 
what  they  are  really  worth,  or  we  may  say  for  what 
they  have  cost  to  manufacture.  This  may  and  may 
not  be  the  best  policy. 

If  we  were  going  to  examine  the  question  we  should 
do  it  in  about  this  way.  We  have  a  lot  of  this  cheap 
stock  on  hand  which  in  its  present  condition  is  almost 
or  quite  valueless.  What  can  we  do  with  it?  If  we 
throw  it  awa}T  it  is  a  total  loss,  no  one  can  receive 
any  benefit  from  it.  But  by  putting  a  little  good  ma- 
terial with  it,  we  can  make  it  into  a  commodity  that 
can  be  used.  This  material  may  be  of  different 
things  and  in  different  forms,  and  suppose  we  substi- 
tute shoddj7  cloth  for  one  thing,  and  that  we  use  it  in 
our  argument.  Now  we  have  a  cheap  clath.  That  is 


SHODPY    MATERIAL.  151 

we  have  a  cloth  which  if  genuine  would  cost  one  dol- 
lar per  yard.  It  is  so  near  like  the  original  that  an 
unpracticed  eye  can  scarcely  tell  them  apart,  and  has 
not  cost  over  30  or  40  cents,  according  to  the  amount 
of  good  material  that  is  put  into  it.  A  suit  of  clothes 
made  from  genuine  goods,  trimmed  and  made  as  they 
ought  to  be  would  cost  at  least  twenty  dollars;  while 
a  suit  from  this  cheaper  goods  may  be  trimmed  and 
made  good  enough  for  the  cloth  and  with  a  less  skill- 
ed workman,  for  from  30  to  40  per  cent  of  20  dollars. 
Then  there  is  another  thing,  the  wearer  may  not  have 
the  20  dollars  to  pay  for  the  good  suit,  but  might 
have  the  six  or  eight  dollars  to  pay  for  the  other.  An- 
other thing  may  be  brought  in  here,  if  the  cheap  suit 
is  well  cared  for  it  will  remain  respectable  almost  as 
long  as  the  other:  but  of  course  he  has  not  been  car- 
rying around  20  dollars  on  his  back  for  others  to  see; 
twelve  or  fourteen  dollars  more  than  he  could  really 
afford  to  carry. 

There  are  a  hundred  things  which  may  be  brought 
in  here.  We  know  from  the  way  society  is  being 
built  upon,  that  a  man  must  have  on  from  a  20  to  a 
40  dollar  suit  before  Society  will  pass  out  the  hand  of 
fellowship.  Unless  he  carries  a  solid  18  carat  gold 
watch  he  does  not  belong  to  our  circle.  Unless  a  lady 
can  wear  pure  pearls  or  genuine  diamonds  she  is  not 
one  of  us.  This  may  be  well  enough  in  its  place,  but 
in  our  opinion  it  is  the  one  thing  that  is  producing 
more  misery  in  our  land  than  all  others. 

The  rich  of  the  country  are  setting  the  example  by 
building  extravagant  mansions,  which  they  have  a 
right  to  do.  The  cost  often  being  millions  of  dollars. 


152 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


Then  will  follow  the  next  with  buildings  costing 
hundreds  of  thousands.  Next  those  costing  thou- 
sands, then  those  costing  hundreds;  one  "aping"  the 
next  one  above  him.  This  is  all  legally  right,  no  one 
has  trespassed  upon  the  rights  of  another.  But  is 
that  the  best  way  to  do  for  the  out-growth  and  gener- 
al development  of  society.  Could  a  middle  ground 
be  touched,  we  think  all  things  would  be  better.  Yet 
we  hardly  expect  any  great  change  can  be  reached  in 
the  present  generation  or  even  in  this  century.  The 
present  is  an  age  of  money,  we  may  say  of  riches. 
Every  one  wants  property,  and  every  effort  is  being 
made  to  obtain  it;  either  rightfully  or  wrongfully. 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

FOR    DUBLIN    IRELAND. 

We  now  board  the  cars  for  Dublin.  The  day  was 
pleasant  and  we  had  a  delightful  trip.  The  country 
through  which  we  passed  is  one  that  can  be  studied. 
For  the  last  400  years  this  country  has  been  under 
the  iron  heel  of  the  British  Throne. 

It  is  unnecessary  for  us  to  go  back  to  the  days  of 
the  dark  dwarfish  Firbolgs,  who  are  said  to  have  col- 
onized the  Island,  but  it  is  safe  to  assume  that  prior 


IRISH     HISTORY.  163 

to  the  introduction  of  Romanism,  Ireland  was  simi- 
lar to  the  rest  of  nothern  Europe. 

Ireland  became  of  importance  when  St.  Patrick 
went  to  the  island  and  began  his  work  of  conversion. 

The  king  of  Dublin  was  baptized  with  many  of  his 
followers  in  a  little  well  now  enclosed  within  St.  Pat- 
rick's Cathedral.  Different  churches  sprung  up  all 
over  the  island,  and  hundreds  of  youths  came  to  Ire- 
land to  be  instructed  in  the  Catholic  religion.  But 
soon  after  this  the  Danes  made  a  raid  on  Ireland  and 
over  threw  and  attempted  to  stamp  out  Catholicism. 
But  after  a  time  the  Danes  were  defeated,  and  then 
England  cast  her  eye  over  Ireland  and  seemed  to  cov- 
et it,  and  sent  over  an  army  which  after  many  bat- 
tles won  the  day.  In  the  reign  of  Henry  VIII.  the 
English  supremacy  was  established  in  the  island,  and 
then  the  trouble,  religiously,  commenced  which  had 
previously  been  settled. 

Oliver  Cromwell,  being  Secretary  of  England,  sent 
orders  that  all  venerated  relics  be  destro}Ted  and  the 
English  liturgy  be  enforced.  In  Mary's  reign  the  re- 
ligious question  was  at  peace,  but  lands  which  had 
been  given  to  certain  chiefs  by  Cromwell  were  confis- 
cated to  the  Church.  But  when  Elizabeth  commenced 
her  reign  these  were  changed  again. 

But  we  must  change.  We  might  follow  the  history 
down  from  1500,  but  a  more  complete  knowledge  of 
the  tips  and  downs  of  Ireland  can  be  had  by  reading 
the  history  of  England  and  Ireland,  therefore  we  will 
justgo  back  to  where  we  said  that  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  Ireland  has  been  under  the  iron  heel  of 
England  for  400  years. 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

And  not  only  has  she  been  tinder  the  iron  heel  of 
British  rule,bnt  she  has  been  wallowing  under  the 
feet  of  the  Catholic  Church.  And  those  who  are  con- 
versant with  the  workings  of  the  Catholic  Church 
know  there  is  no  way  for  those  who  are  once  under  its 
feet  to  throw  off  its  bonds  except  by  renouncing  the 
whole  creed.  No  religion,  even  the  old  Pagan  rights, 
has  ever  held  such  a  sway  over  the  people  as  does  this 
religion.  No  religion  from  the  time  of  Jacob  of  old 
has  been  able  to  collect  a  ten  per  cent  of  the  gross  re- 
ceipt of  a  person's  income  without  a  murmur,  but  the 
Catholic  with  the  Pope  behind  to  give  the  command. 

There  are  no  people  in  the  world  who  are  as  poor  as 
the  Catholics  that  can  build  churches  which  cost  up 
into  the  millions.  I  have  often  been  saddened  and 
almost  to  lose  the  belief  in  the  sanity  of  a  mem- 
ber of  the  orthodox  church.  I  have  asked  myself  how 
can  they  be  sane  and  build  such  useless  structures 
costing  millions  and  allow  their  brothers  and  sisters 
to  die  of  starvation  right  under  the  shadow  of  their 
Church. 

I  cannot  say  less,  I  ought  to  saj'  more,  but  will  it 
do  any  good?  I  must  pause  for  a  reply,  but  who  will 
reply,  save  perhaps  the  echo  of  my  own  pen.  We  are 
iu  this  grasping  age,  and  humanit}'  must  suffer;  there 
seems  to  be  no  help  for  it. 

I  do  not  think  we  have  ever  been  in  a  country 
where  wealth  and  poverty  seem  to  be  so  intermingled. 
At  one  cast  of  the  eye  one  may  see  from  the  castle 
where  luxury  abounds  to  the  little  home  where  Pat, 
Biddy,  the  children  and  pigs  live  under  the  same  roof. 
We  will  add  here  the  style  of  building  among  the  poor 


HOMES    IN    IRELAND.  155 

people  is  to  build  everything  under  one  continuous 
roof,  and  when  we  say  they  are  under  the  same  roof, 
we  do  not  mean  that  the  pigs  and  children  occupy  the 
same  bed  or  even  the  same  room,  but  would  wish  to 
be  understood  that  they  are  very  poor  and  that  the 
best  houses  among  that  class  are  worse  than  the  build- 
ings which  we  erect  for  our  pigs. 

They  are  built  of  cobblestones  and  mortar  for  the 
side  walls,  earth  or  mortar  for  a  floor,  and  the  roof  is 
thatched  with  straw  or  wild  grass,  though  some  have  a 
mortar  or  tile  roof.  The  most  of  the  land  in  Ireland 
is  quite  or  very  stony.  All  the  fences  are  made  of 
stone,  and  the  land  is  fenced  up  into  lots  from  one- 
fourth  to  five  acres,  the  latter  being  very  rare  to  see. 
We  learned  that  in  some  instances  the  people  own  the 
land  where  they  live,  but  it  is  the  exception  rather 
than  the  rule.  The  land  will  be  owned  in  tracts  of  5 
to  50, 000  acres,  and  is  leased  to  the  present  occupants. 
They  have  lived  there  all  their  lives,  also  their  fathers 
and  grandfathers  for  the  last  300  or  400  years,  and 
these  little  houses  and  lots  have  been  built  for  them 
and  repaired  as  they  might  need,  and  some  of  the 
landlords  may  have  50  or  even  a  100  families  living 
on  their  lands, 

We  asked  what  rent  they  paid,  and  we  found  from 
five  to  ten  dollars  per  acre,  some  for  less  but  little 
for  more.  We  asked  what  they  could  grow  to  pay 
such  a  rent,  and  was  answered,  grass  and  roots. 
Growing  perhaps  two  or  three  crops  of  som^  kinds  of 
produce.  Also  learned  that  they  depend  principally  on 
home  made  manures  for  growing  their  crops.  The 
poorer  people  grow  potatoes  and  turnips  more  plenty 


156  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

than  anything  else  save  perhaps  grass,  which  is  fed, 
when  possible,  to  dairy  cows  or  to  fatten  cattle  or 
sheep. 

But  we  have  now  arrived  in  Dublin  and  must  tell 
you  what  we  saw  in  this  city.  Trinity  College,  with 
its  unique  library  and  treasures  of  illuminated  manu- 
scripts, the  Bank  of  Ireland,  St.  Patrick's  Cathe- 
dral, Museum  and  Phoenix  Park.  This  park  has  about 
1,700  acres  and  is  one  of  the  finest  laid  out  parks  in 
Ireland,  and  the  Royal  Barracks  are  near  here. 

Wellington  Monument  stands  in  this  park.  It  is  a 
massive  obelisk  205  feet  high,  ornamented  with  low 
relief  panels  in  bronze,  and  inscribed  with  the  names 
of  the  victories  of  the  famous  Duke.  We  could  not 
ascertain  the  cost,  but  it  must  have  been  heavy  as  it 
is  the  largest  obelisk  that  we  have  ever  seen  in  any 
country. 

Nelson's  Pillar  is  a  lofty  fluted  column  130  feet 
above  the  street,  and  surmounted  by  a  colossal  stat- 
ure of  the  naval  hero.  It  cost  about  40,000  dollars. 
In  the  middle  of  the  street  stands  the  white  marble 
statue  of  Father  Matthew  with  which  O'Connell  ident- 
ified himself. 

The  General  Post  Office  is  a  fine  building  made  of 
granite,  erected  in  1816,  at  a  cost  of  over  250,000  dol- 
lars. 

The  statue  of  O'Connell  is  an  imposing  and  mag- 
nificent work  of  art.  The  base  of  the  pedestal  is 
twenty-eight  feet  high,  surmounted  by  a  colossal  fig- 
ure of  the  patriot  draped  in  his  cloak.  It  is  cast  in 
bronze  and  was  unveiled  in  1862. 

The  Bank  building    of  Ireland   is   a  noble    edifice 


TRINITY    COLLEGE.  157 

which  would  grace  any  capital,  and  is  generally  con- 
sidered the  architectural  gem  of  Dublin. 

Trinity  College  is  another  fine  structure.  The  li- 
brary in  connection  with  this  college  has  250,000  vol- 
umes. The  Hall  used  for  these  books  is  240  feet  long, 
40  feet  wide  and  40  feet  high.  White  marble  busts  of 
many  eminent  men,  both  ancient  and  modern,  are  in- 
terspersed among  the  shelves  of  books. 

Among  the  interesting  exhibits  is  the  harp  of  the 
old  Irish  hero  king  Brian  Boru.  It  dates  back  to 
about  1400  A.  D.  It  bears  the  O'Neil  arms,  and  was 
played  in  the  streets  of  Limerick  by  Arthur  O'Neil  in 
1760. 

The  City  Hall  is  a  handsome  building  though  rath- 
er heavy.  It  cost  about  200,000  dollars.  The  front 
of  the  building  is  a  square  of  nearly  a  hundeed  feet 
crowned  by  a  dome  in  the  center  of  the  building. 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  is  a  cruciform  edifice  three 
hundred  feet  long,  sixty-seven  feet  wide,  with  a  tran- 
sept of  one  hundred  and  fifty  seven  feet,  and  was  erect- 
ed in  1190,  but  was  not  fully  completed  until  1864 
when  Sir  Guinness  brought  it  to  its  present  state  of 
perfection  at  a  cost  of  800,000  dollars.  It  has  a  four- 
teenth century  tower  two  hundred  feet  high. 

The  Art  Museum  is  a  semicircle  three  story  glass- 
roofed  building  with  portico  surmounted  by  a  balus- 
trade. 

The  Custon  House  was  commenced  in  1781  and  was 
completed  in  ten  years.  The  full  cost  has  been  about 
3,000,000  dollars,  the  most  costly  building  for  that 
use  in  Europe.  In  form  it  is  quadrangle  375  feet  long 
by  205  feet  wide.  The  dome  is  113  feet  high  sur- 


158  PARIS    EXPOSITION . 

mounted  by  a  colossal  statue  of  Hope  resting  on  his 
anchor. 

The  Four  Courts  was  erected  in  1786  at  a  cost  of 
1,000,000  dollars.  The  Hall  is  a  perfect  circle  sixty- 
four  feet  in  diameter.  The  grand  dome  rises  above 
this  circular  hall,  and  busts  of  legal  celebrities  orna- 
ment the  place. 

And  now  we  have  given  the  most  noted  places  in  and 
around  Dublin,  and  as  our  length  of  stay  is  up,  you 
will  have  to  embark  on  board  the  steamer  with  us 
while  we  go  to  Liverpool. 

We  took  one  of  the  Irish  carts  from  our  hotel  to  the 
steamship  landing.  This  is  one  of  the  principal  modes 
of  conveyance  in  the  city.  It  is  a  vehicle  upon  two 
wheels  built  large  and  strong  enough  to  cany  six 
persons.  The  most  of  them  are  tired  with  rubber 
which  makes  a  very  pleasant  convej^ance  to  ride  upon. 
The  cost  is  from  one  to  two  shillings  per  hour.  The 
driver  told  us  that  he  received  sixty  cents  per  day  of 
12  hours  for  driving  and  taking  care  of  the  horse. 

We  arrived  at  the  dock  and  went  on  board  in  due 
time.  Perhaps  we  should  say  something  about  the 
boat.  It  was  a  fine  channel  boat  built  especially  for  a 
trade  between  Dublin  and  Liverpool.  It  is  a  three- 
decker,  designed  for  freight  and  passengers,  and  this 
particular  one  was  arranged  for  stock.  We  had  on 
nearly  three  thousand  sheep,  besides  cattle  and  hogs. 

The  accommodations  for  persons  were  very  good. 
We  obtained  a  very  good  supper  on  board  for  about 
three  English  shillings  each,  and  our  berths  were  in 
rooms  designed  for  four  persons.  The  attentions  of 
the  attendants  were  all  one  could  ask.lt  being  Sunday 


REFERENCE  PAGE  52. 


I  60 


ROYAI,   EXCHANGE.      REF.    PAGE    132. 


161 


162 


LIVERPOOL,    ENGLAND.  163 

morning  when  we  arrived,  and  early  we  had  to 
make  the  transfer  from  the  deck  to  the  station  by 
foot  power,  it  being  about  one  mile,  but  later  in  the 
day  we  could  have  made  the  most  of  the  way  b}T  the 
street  cars,  though  we  should  have  missed  seeing  the 
long  docks  which  they  have  in  Liverpool.  We  are  not 
prepared  to  give  the  exact  dimensions  of  these  won- 
derful docks.  They  are  a  couple  of  miles  long  or 
more  and  very  substantially  built.  We  noticed  that 
the  wharfage  was  immense.  Perhaps  twenty  or  more 
large  vessels  nan  load  and  unload  at  these  docks  at 
the  same  time  without  trouble. 

We  understand  that  Liverpool  is  the  largest  stock 
and  grain  market  in  England,  if  not  in  the  world,  and 
the  board  of  trade  is  something  wonderful.  We  ought 
to  have  remained  here  another  day,  when  we  could 
have  given  a  more  extended  description  of  what  we 
saw  of  the  city. 

At  about  10  A.  M.  we  took  the  cars  for  London. 
This  was  a  daylight  ride  and  a  very  pleasant  one. 
We  can  give  but  few  additional  points  that  will  be  of 
interest  to  the  reader.  In  running  down  from  Liver- 
pool we  did  not  touch  Manchester,  the  great  center  of 
the  cotton  industry,  or  Chester  with  its  ancient  cathe- 
dral whose  walls  are  grey  with  the  memories  of  two 
thousand  years,  and  the  palatial  residence  of  the  Duke 
of  Westminster.  But  we  saw  Crewe,  the  seat  of  the 
great  locomotive  works,  the  largest  in  the  world,  em- 
ploying 6,000  men,  also  Stamford  with  its  noted  cas- 
tle, Birmingham,  the  world's  center  for  hardware 
manufactories,  Rugby  for  its  great  public  schools 
which  are  associated  with  the  popular  book  "Tom 


164 


PARIS      EXPOSITION. 


Brown's  School  Days."  Northampton,  widely  known 
for  its  manufactories  of  boots  and  shoes;  and  near 
here,  St.  Albans  with  her  Norman  Abbey. 

All  these  places  are  interesting  to  visit  and  we 
could  have  spent  days  and  written  pages  about  each 
place,  but  we  thought  we  would  leave  the  rest  for  a 
later  visit  if  we  should  ever  make  it.  But  all  in  all 
this  trip  was  very  enjoyable.  The  country  is  much  as 
it  is  further  east  where  we  went  through  on  our  trip 
to  Edinburgh.  Though  perhaps  this  is  a  richer  coun- 
try than  it  is  farther  north. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 


SUNDAY    IN    LONDON. 

As  we  spent  one  Sunda}7  in  London  we  are  going  to 
tell  vou  where  we  went  and  what  we  saw.  On  the 
morning  of  June  5th.  being  Sunday,  we  thought  we 
would  attend  a  church  advocating  the  spiritual  phi- 
losophy. In  looking  over  the  daily  papers  we  found 
that  a  small  church  located  near  Battersea  Park  was 
teaching  this  doctrine,  and  they  held  a  Lyceum  ses- 
sion at  3  P.  M.,  and  a  meeting  in  the  grove  at  4.30, 
and  another  in  the  church  at  7.15  P.  M.  Accordingly 
we  started  for  the  Park  by  the  way  of  Victoria  Station 


ATTENDING    CHURCH    IN    LONDON.  165 

and  arrived  there  just  as  they  were  singing  their 
opening  song. 

We  found  quite  a  pretty  little  house  about  20  by  30 
feet;  built  in  the  form  of  a  country  church  or  chapel. 
They  had  a  school  of  about  60  pupils,  they  being 
from  the  age  of  four  to  sixteen,  and  belonging  to  the 
families  living  in  that  neighborhood.  A  large  por- 
tion of  them  were  children  of  those  who  did  not  be- 
long to  this  society,  but  to  families  who  were  liberal 
in  their  religious  views. 

The  Conductor  gave  us  the  right-hand  of  fellow- 
ship, and  so  we  told  him  why  we  had  trespassed  upon 
his  domain,  and  then  he  gave  us  a  seat  where  we 
could  see  and  hear  the  most  that  was  being  done. 

They  carry  on  their  schools  much  as  we  do  in  this 
country.  They  were  divided  up  into  five  or  six 
groups.  The  younger  by  themselves,  and  the  older 
ones  together.  The  teachers  were  giving  instructions 
according  to  the  comprehension  of  the  pupils.  After 
spending  about  half  an  hour  with  the  classes,  the 
chairs  were  set  back  and  the  calisthenics  were  gone 
through  with  and  then  those  who  wished  to  could  go 
through  the  march  and  counter-march.  For  a  young 
school  they  acquited  themselves  with  much  honor, 
keeping  good  time  in  their  marches  and  movements. 

At  the  close  of  the  lyceum  we  were  introduced  to 
the  workers  and  was  invited  to  adjourn  with  them  to 
the  meeting  which  was  to  be  held  in  the  Park.  We 
found  about  200  persons  gathered  together,  and  after 
a  song  had  been  sung  one  of  the  local  speakers  ad- 
dressed them  for  about  20  minutes,  when  a  second 
and  then  a  third  took  the  stand. 


166  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  gist  of  all  their  arguments  was,  that  we  all 
have  a  continued  life,  and  that  under  favorable  condi- 
tions we  may  communicate  with  our  departed  friends, 
also  that  we  should  make  our  lives  such  that  it  would 
not  bring  the  blush  of  shame  to  the  cheeks  of  our 
loved  ones  who  have  passed  over  to  the  other  side. 

And  while  their  exponents  were  telling  the  story,  an 
Evangelist  came  on  to  the  grounds  and  took  a  stand 
about  50  feet  away,  and  commenced  to  harangue  the 
people  about  the  faults  of  Spiritualism.  He  said  that 
this  was  the  delusion  which  was  spoken  of  in  the  Bi- 
ble: that  it  was  inaugurated  by  the  old  serpent  the 
devil  to  lead  mankind  astray  so  that  he  could  get  their 
souls.  He  said  that  all  who  listened  to  the  doctrines 
of  the  other  speakers  and  believed  it  would  go  to  hell. 
The  only  way  to  remain  safe  was  not  to  listen  to  their 
talk,  for  that  they  made  such  a  beautiful  belief  that 
they  could  not  help  believing  it,  for  the  Bible  said 
that  these  false  teachers,  these  Spiritualists,  could  de- 
ceive the  very  elect. 

He  spoke  for  about  25  minutes,and  after  working 
himself  into  a  terrible  state  of  excitement,  he  stopped 
all  at  once  and  we  lost  sight  of  him  in  the  crowd. 

It  is  said  that  he  gives  those  talks  whenever  the 
Spiritualists  hold  a  meeting  in  the  Park,  and  claims 
that  he  is  commissioned  by  God  to  warn  the  people 
not  to  investigate  the  doctrine  of  Spiritualism. 

After  the  meeting  closed  some  thirty  or  forty  re- 
turned to  the  little  church,  and  at  about  6  P.  M.  we 
had  a  nice  lunch  which  all  seemed  to  enjojr. 

At  7:30  after  the  table  had  been  removed,  we  were 
called  to  order  by  Mrs.  E.  Roberts,  of  Essex,  England. 


LECTURE    BY    MRS.    ROBERTS.  167 

who  was  acting  as  speaker  for  the  Society.  Mrs.  Rob- 
erts is  a  very  fine  speaker,  and  somewhere  among  our 
papers  we  had  a  partial  synopsis  of  the  address  but 
we  cannot  now  lay  our  hand  upon  it,  and  presume  it 
will  be  lost  to  our  readers.  But  we  bespeak  a  great 
work  for  Mrs.  Roberts,  and  hope  in  the  near  future  to 
hear  her  speak  from  an  American  rostrum.  Her  hus- 
band is  a  fine  man  and  is  working  in  harmony  with 
her. 

When  those  friends  found  that  we  were  from  Amer- 
ica, they  wished  us  to  make  a  few  remarks  and  take 
a  greeting  back  to  our  fellow  Spiritualists. 

When  called  to  the  rostrum  we  told  them  that  we 
were  poorly  prepared  to  deliver  an  address  that  would 
do  honor  to  our  talented  American  speakers,  and 
therefore  should  not  attempt  an  elaborate  discourse, 
and  would  detain  them  but  a  few  moments.  We  told 
them  we  were  born  in  America,  and  had  been  to  Paris 
to  see  the  Exposition,  and  was  now  taking  in  England 
before  our  return  trip,  and  being  in  the  city  on  a  Sun- 
day, we  wished  for  spiritual  food  and  had  found  their 
little  church  while  the}'  were  teaching  their  grand  les- 
sons to  those  little  children  whom  we  found  congre- 
gated in  the  several  groups. 

We  thought  they  had  a  fine  lyceum,  though  young 
would  compare  very  favorably  with  those  we  had  vis- 
ited in  America.  Their  mode  of  teaching  was  very 
much  like  ours,  and  did  not  think  that  we  could  sug- 
gest anything  further  than  they  were  using  and  would 
come  to  them  as  they  advance.  We  were  fully  satis- 
fied they  had  made  a  wise  choice  in  officers  and  teach- 
ers, we  pronounce  a  grand  future  for  this  lyceum. 


168 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


"We  were  also  highly  entertained  at  the  meeting  in 
the  Park,  and  we  could  seen  no  reason  why  there 
should  not  be  an  advance,  though  perhaps  a  slow  but 
sure  growth  through  those  meetings. 

We  thought  from  the  tenor  of  the  opposing  element 
that  the  orthodox  people  were  becoming  afraid,  or 
fearful  that  thinking  minds  might  be  led  to  see  the 
truth  and  believe  it.  We  thought  they  had  a  grand 
opening  for  their  propaganda  work,  and  with  their 
force  we  could  only  say  go  on,  there  is  nothing  but 
good  can  come  out  of  the  move. 

The  subject  which  had  been  brought  before  that  ses- 
sion, had  been  so  ably  handled  by  those  who  had  al- 
ready spoken  upon  it,  that  we  would  say  that  surely 
we  could  add  nothing  to  it.  We  were  glad  to  be 
there  and  pleased  with  the  kind  attentions  that  we 
had  received  from  them. 

We  had  yet  one  surprise  for  them,  which  was  that 
we  lived  near  Hudson  Tuttle,  that  grand  and  good 
man.  We  had  known  him  for  about  a  third  of  a  cen- 
tury, and  we  could  say  there  are  no  "bad  spots"  about 
him,  and  that  we  will  take  back  to  him  their  kind 
greetings,  and  bespeak  a  kind  reception  for  any  of 
their  number  who  may  visit  us  across  the  big  waters, 
and  thanking  them  for  their  kind  attention,  we  wish- 
ed them  every  success  in  the  future. 

After  they  had  tendered  us  a  vote  of  thanks  the 
meeting  closed  and  we  returned  to  our  hotel  believ- 
ing that  we  had  enjoyed  a  feast  of  fat  things  which 
would  be  hard  to  find  outside  of  the  ranks  of  those 
who  teach  the  beautiful  philosophy  of  spirit  return, 
and  communion  with  us  here  in  this  life. 


A    RIDE   THROUGH    ENGLAND.  169 

We  arrived  in  London  late  in  the  evening  and 
took  the  cars  next  morning  for  Southampton.  This 
was  a  very  pleasant  ride.  We  passed  through  or  near 
the  encampment  grounds  of  England's  reserves.  There 
were  several  regiments  in  camp  at  that  time  being 
drilled  for  the  South  African  war. 

On  this  trip  we  passed  through  a  piece  of  forest 
which  one  of  the  passengers  said  was  owned  by  a  lord 
and  kept  for  hunting  purposes.  It  seemed  to  be  just 
a  broken  piece  of  wood  land  with  few  improvements 
upon  it.  The  outside  fence  was  principally  hedge, 
grown  from  hawthorn  kept  trimmed  from  four  to  five 
feet  in  height.  Occasionally  we  could  see  a  lodge — a 
small  house — used  by  the  keeper.  There  is  very  little 
of  this  land  cultivated,  though  some  stock  kept  on 
certain  parts  of  it.  The  portion  used  for  a  hunting 
park  is  left  almost  entirely  for  nature  to  mantle  it  as 
she  deems  best,  and  all  stock  and  persons  are  kept 
off  except  in  the  hunting  season.  In  this  park  are 
several  thousand  acres,  and  has  been  kept  many  years 
for  this  purpose.  I  did  not  learn  there  was  a  revenue 
from  this  park  for  the  owner,  unless  it  was  snaring 
the  game  for  market  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year, 
when  it  always  commands  a  good  price  in  any  of  the 
towns  and  cities  in  England. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


THE   ENGLISH    PEOPLE. 

We  do  not  know  that  we  are  called  upon  to  decant 
on  the  way  the  English  People  have  disposed  of  90 
per  cent  of  their  lands,  when  we  have  given  such  un- 
heard of  grants  to  the  railroads  for  the  privi ledge  of 
riding  upon  some  body  else's  cars.  But  as  two 
wrongs  cannot  make  one  right,  we  are  going  to  air 
our  views  not  expecting  it  will  bear  much  fruit  until 
this  age  of  greed  has  passed  over. 

We  learned  there  was  1,000,000  acres,  and  perhaps 
five  times  that  amount  which  is  owned  by  capitalists 
and  is  producing  nothing  towards  the  support  of  Eng- 
land's population.  In  the  city  of  London  with  her 
6,000,000  inhabitants,  there  are  100,000  who  are  very 
poor,  and  about  five  times  as  many  whose  condition 
should  be  improved. 

Now  what  we  would  suggest  is  that  the  5,000,000 
acres  of  land  which  is  now  used  in  those  hunting 
parks  be  opened,  and  these  500,000  poor  people  be 
placed  upon  it  at  such  a  rental  as  the  land  could  pay. 
This  rent  should  go  towards  paying  for  the  land  to 
those  who  would  sell.  There  are  some  fine  points  to 
be  worked  out  along  this  line,  and  if  the  English 
Government  should  ever  open  up  on  this  line  and 

170 


ADVICE    TO    THE    ENGLISH   PEOPLE.  171 

require  our  assistance  we  shall  be  willing  to  give  them 
our  best  thoughts. 

We  did  not  design  this  chapter  as  a  criticism  upon 
the  English  law  and  government,  but  simply  throw 
in  our  remarks  as  a  kind  of  sandwich  which  might 
whet  the  English  appetite  for  something  further. 

From  what  we  saw  while  in  England,  we  are  fully 
satisfied  that  they  have  a  class  of  as  poor  people  and 
living  in  as  squalid  a  condition,  as  any  people  under 
any  civilized  nation  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  And 
this  element  composes  quite  a  per  cent  of  the  inhab- 
itants. We  would  not  like  to  name  the  per  cent,  per- 
haps we  might  say  20  and  not  be  far  wrong.  We 
know  it  must  be  large,  or  there  would  be  none  in  a 
nation  as  progressive  as  England. 

How  to  assist  the  poor  and  eliminate  this  class 
from  among  our  people  is  a  great  subject.  One  that 
has  stalled  our  best  Statesmen,  but  we  think  it  will 
finally  resolve  itself  into  the  question  of  land,  as  all 
products  which  will  sustain  life  must  come  from  the 
earth. 

This  question  will  not  be  settled  in  this  generation 
and  perhaps  not  in  this  century.  This  element  will 
have  to  be  educated.  If  we  should  take  those  people 
from  the  cities  and  place  them  on  a  good  piece  of 
land,  not  more  than  one  in  ten  would  stay,  or  could 
make  a  living  if  they  did  attempt  to  stay.  Very  few 
have  any  knowledge  of  farming  and  are  too  shiftless 
or  lazy  to  live  or  work  on  a  farm.  Those  of  the  very 
poor  have  never  been  brought  up  to  do  real  manual 
labor.  When  young  they  have  perhaps  gathered  up 
a  few  lumps  of  coal  or  broken  boxes  for  fuel,  or  later, 


172 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


sold  a  few  papers,  or  blacked  a  few  pair  of  shoes,  and 
have  never  done  as  much  as  a  full  day's  work  up  to 
the  growth  of  manhood,  and  later  in  life  their  morals 
have  become  such  that  no  one  can  employ  them. 

This  is  why  it  will  be  so  difficult  to  do  anything 
for  them.  They  have  never  been  trained  to  earn  a 
living,  and  the  moment  it  requires  any  great  exertion 
in  the  line  of  hard  labor  they  would  "fly  the  track;" 
accordingly  that  class  would  have  to  be  educated  to 
fill  any  station,  and  as  the  prenatal  has  much  to  do 
with  each  person,  it  might  take  several  generations 
before  these  people  could  be  raised  to  a  standard, 
morally  and  physically,  where  they  would  be  self  sus- 
taining. One  might  carry  this  article  to  a  much  great- 
er length  and  give  a  skeleton  of  how  we  would  at- 
tempt to  make  so  radical  a  change  as  would  have  to 
be  introduced  to  work  out  this  great  problem  success- 
fully. But  we  are  now  in  Southampton,  and  we  are 
going  to  touch  this  city  lightly  and  perhaps  a  few 
words  about  Paris  and  then  we  shall  "hie"  away  for 
America.  We  have  written  up  this  place  quite  fully 
and  shown  many  of  its  good  points,  but  we  seem  to  be 
called  upon  to  give  the  undesirable  side  of  this  great 
question. 

Southampton  as  a  commercial  venture  or  invest- 
ment is  a  grand  success.  But  about  the  moral  and 
spiritual  sides  is  what  we  would  speak.  Religious- 
ly we  suppose  it  must  be  all  right,  as  they  have 
plenty  of  churches  and  churchmen  to  look  after  the 
whole  people  if  they  would  do  it. 

The  capitalists  and  business  men  seem  to  be  well 
situated,  and  we  judge  are  leading  blameless  lives. 


THE    CITY    OF    SOUTHAMPTON.  173 

But  it  is  the  lower  and  poorer  classes  that  we  would 
speak  of.  Those  are  the  poor  parts  of  the  city.  The 
The  streets  here  are  narrow,  not  more  than  10  to  15 
feet  in  width.  The  houses  are  low  and  small,  and 
often  two  or  more  families  living  in  one  room.  These 
houses  are  owned  by  the  wealthy,  but  for  some  reason 
they  do  not  remove  them  and  replace  with  better. 

The  reason,  no  doubt,  is  because  the  people  are 
poor  and  could  not  pay  a  larger  rent.  In  these  by- 
streets are  many  saloons  where  all  cheap  drinks  are 
kept,  and  there  are  plenty  of  men  and  women  who 
patronize  them. 

After  the  day's  labor  is  over,  from  then  until  one 
or  two  A.  M.,  you  can  find  in  those  narrow  streets  and 
alleys  almost  all  kinds  of  debauchery.  Drunkeness 
and  fighting  seeming  to  be  the  principal  bent  of  their 
desires.  It  is  not  an  uncommon  thing  to  see  a  man 
and  woman  go  out  into  the  street  and  have  a  regular 
"knock  down."  In  those  which  we  saw  the  woman 
usually  lost  the  battle.  It  looked  brutal  to  see  a  man 
strike  a  woman  hard  enough  in  the  face  to  knock  her 
down.  But  the  men  and  women  who  saw  it  did  not 
seem  to  be  astonished  in  the  least,  even  the  police  did 
not  arrest  any  one,  but  let  it  pass  on  as  if  it  was  of 
daily  occurrence. 

This  being  a  correct  state  of  affairs  in  the  lower 
grades  of  society,  where  shall  we  place  the  blame? 
Among  savages  this  might  be  admissible,  but  would 
not  be  allowed  on  account  of  the  danger  to  the  lives 
of  the  people,  and  it  would  seem  to  us  that  England 
should  protect  the  lives  of  her  people  while  at  home. 

We  figure   the   low   element   something   like   this: 


174  .  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

As  they  are,  certainly,  they  are  of  no  possible  use  to 
the  country.  They  are  too  dissipated  and  weakened 
by  vice  and  disease  to  make  good  laborers,  therefore 
are  a  draft  and  heavy  weight  which  have  to  be  carried 
by  the  better  grades  of  society.  What  would  incapac- 
itate them  for  workingmen  would  not  allow  them  to 
be  soldiers  to  protect  the  country  at  home  and  abroad. 

Forcing  the  best  muscle  and  intellect  of  the  country 
to  go  out  and  be  shot  or  die  of  disease  while  these 
vagabonds  remain  at  home  and  live  on  the  fat  of  the 
land  when  they  can  get  it  without  doing  a  hand's 
turn  towards  supplying  or  protecting  the  country. 

Where  shall  we  place  the  blame?  We  have  only 
spoken  of  what  would  be  called  the  heads  of  families. 
But  it  must  be  remembered  that  connected  with  near- 
ly every  one  of  these  persons  there  are  from  three  to 
six  others  who  from  their  surroundings  are  unable  to 
earn  much  towards  a  living,  and  really  have  to  be 
carried  as  a  dead  weight  by  the  others.  Never  pro- 
ducing anything  but  always  consuming. 

We  can  see  no  reason  but  that  the  blame  must  be 
placed  upon  the  English  nation.  We  never  have  been 
a  prohibitionist,  but  have  always  advocated  temper- 
ance in  all  things,  and  since  we  have  visited  England 
we  are  not  sure  but  that  prohibition  is  the  only  way 
by  which  the  evil  of  intemperance  can  be  over  come. 
We  found  the  laws  in  connection  with  making  and 
selling  intoxicants  were  very  mild,  not  much  more  se- 
vere than  those  in  regard  to  articles  of  food.  Any 
one  may  make  liquors  and  sell  them  by  conforming 
to  the  rules  laid  down  by  the  government,  making  as 
near  free  beers  and  whiskey  as  it  is  possible  to  make 


A  NATION  OF  BEfR  DRINKERS.          175 

This  has  made  a  nation  of  beer  drinkers.  We  un- 
derstand that  nearly  all  the  English  drink,  both  the 
high  and  the  low,  and  we  argue  that  if  all  drink  what 
will  produce  intoxication,  all  will  be  affected  more  or 
less;  not  perhaps  made  unconsciously  drunk,  but  af- 
fected to  a  certain  degree.  This  is  what  has  affected 
the  nation.  This  prenatal  influence  has  entered  into 
the  very  life  of  the  nation.  From  the  oldest  to  the 
youngest,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  all  are  con- 
taminated with  this  drinking  demon.  The  few  who 
do  not  use  beer  or  liquor  can  do  nothing,  and  the  ma- 
ny who  compose  the  power  of  the  land  have  no  desire 
to  cut  off  the  drinking  supplies,  therefore,  the  gov- 
ernment cannot  do  anything  towards  blotting  out 
this  terrible  evil,  and  we  can  only  see  the  future  as 
we  see  the  past. 

The  nation  with  its  good  and  bad  must  be  perpetu- 
ated, because  there  is  not  force  enough  of  character, 
encumbered  as  it  is  with  prenatal  influences,  to  shake 
off  this  great  love  for  drink,  therefore  the  bad  must 
still  produce  the  bad  until  the  monitor  that  is  silent- 
ly working  its  way  up  shall  declare  there  shall  be  no 
more  intoxicants  made  and  drank  as  a  beverage.  How 
long  before  this  bright  day  shall  appear,  who  can 
say?  Those  who  are  workiug  on  this  line  have  every- 
thing before  them,  and  we  bid  them  "godspeed"  in 
their  work. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


MORALS    OF  THE    PEOPLE. 

We  had  thought  to  write  a  short  chapter  on  the 
morals  of  the  people.  Whether  we  ought  to  set  our- 
self  at  this  work  we  are  rather  at  a  loss  to  determine. 
If  we  thought  it  would  be  for  the  bettering  of  human- 
ity to  present  our  views  upon  this  subject  we  would 
willingly  undertake  the  task. 

As  we  promised  our  readers  something  about  Paris 
on  this  subject,  we  will  note  the  social  question  very 
briefly.  While  stopping  at  a  hotel  in  Scotland  where 
an  English  divine  was  staying,  we  by  chance  in  an- 
swering a  question,  spoke  of  having  visited  the  Expo- 
sition at  Paris.  "What!  says  he:  Have  you  been  to 
that  God  forsaken  country?  How  much  money  did 
you  spend  there?"  We  answered,  enough  to  see  the 
Fair  and  city  pretty  thoroughly. 

He  says:  "You  have  done  wrong.  No  one  should 
go  there  and  spend  a  shilling.  It  is  the  most  deprav- 
ed and  wicked  country  on  the  face  of  the  earth;  and 
God  will  not  permit  it  to  remain  as  a  nation  much 
longer.  Why  one-fourth  of  all  the  births  in  the  coun- 
try are  illegitimate.  Their  marriage  and  divorce  laws 
are  so  lax  that  one  can  marry  to-day  and  be  free  to- 
morrow. Do  3^011  think  that  God  will  allow  this  state 
of  affairs  to  remain  long?1'  176 


ENGLISH    AND    FRENCH    LAWS.  177 

We  told  him  we  did  not  believe  that  God  had  much 
time  to  look  -into  the  social  question,  but  if  he  did 
look  into  it,  we  thought  he  would  not  find  it  much 
worse  than  it  was  when  Abraham,  Jacob,  David  and 
Solomon  were  running  the  affairs  of  this  life. 

But  from  his  broad  assertion  about  the  immorality 
of  the  people  it  caused  us  to  make  some  inquiries 
about  each  nation  on  this  line.  From  what  we  could 
learn  the  most  of  the  marriages  in  France  are  per- 
formed by  and  through  the  Catholic  Church  which 
seldom  grants  divorces.  This,  we  understand,  is  why 
there  are  so  many  Platonic  marriages.  It  seems  that 
the  civil  law  will  allow  a  man  and  woman  to  live  to- 
gether without  the  ceremony  of  the  Church  having 
been  said  over  them. 

There  are  very  few  divorces  obtained  in  France,from 
the  fact  that  those  who  were  married  by  the  Church 
cannot  get  a  divorce,  and  so  do  not  ask  for  one;  while 
those  who  were  not  married  have  no  excuse  to  ask  to 
be  divorced,  as  they  can  separate  whenever  they 
choose.  In  England,  we  learn,  that  all  parties  who 
are  married  may  apply  for  a  separation  and  bill  of  di- 
vorce. 

In  Franc^,  we  learn,  there  may  be  a  license  granted 
by  the  city  to  keep  a  house  of  assignation,  where  any 
one  who  y>ays  the  charges  may  occupy  them  as  they 
would  a  hotel  without  fear  of  being  molested  by  the 
officers  of  the  law.  But  in  England  no  license  is  grant- 
ed, and  if  the  police  think  there  may  be  something 
wrong,  they  ma}7"  arrest  any  body  at  any  time  and  take 
them  before  the  police  court,  and  they  must  prove 
their  standing.  But  we  learned  there  were  many 


178  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

more  places  of  strained  morality  in  England  than  in 
France.  In  the  former  place  a  man,  and  in  particu- 
lar if  he  is  a  gentleman,  may  own  or  rent  a  room  or 
house  almost  any  where  in  the  country  and  put  a 
young  or  old  lady  into  it  as  housekeeper  and  go  there 
when  he  likes  and  stay  as  long  as  he  pleases  and  no 
questions  will  be  asked;  but  if  there  are  two  or  more 
women  living  there  and  gentlemen  should  call,  it 
would  be  called  a  house  of  ill  repute  and  they  would 
be  subject  to  arrest.  The  difference  seeming  to  be 
that  a  man  may  furnish  a  house  for  a  woman  but  a 
woman  cannot  for  a  man. 

"We  learned  that  a  large  per  cent  of  the  gentlemen 
and  rich  men  of  the  country  have  their  room  or  house 
and  lady  friend  while  their  family  is  at  home  doing 
the  best  they  can;  and  it  is  said  quite  large  families 
are  sometimes  raised  by  those  lady  friends.  We  sim- 
ply speak  of  this  information  because  this  Reverened 
thought  that  France  was  so  much  worse  than  other 
countries,  when  the  facts  show  that  England  is  prac- 
ticing in  a  little  different  form  a  greater  evil  than 
France.  But  as  we  sail  for  New  York  to-morrow  we 
shall  clos«  all  our  plain  talk  about  England  and  the 
Continent,  and  hope  for  the  advance  of  both  in  the 
bright  days  which  are  to  come. 

The  balance  of  our  stay  was  very  pleasant.  We 
had  a  suit  of  rooms  at  Mrs.  Ford's  at  No.  40  Orchard 
Place,  Southampton,  England.  She  is  a  very  pleasing 
old  lady  about  70  years  of  age,  who  was  always  ready 
to  do  everything  in  her  power  to  please  her  patrons. 

From  here  we  moved  on  board  the  steamer  St.  Paul, 
on  June  16,  and  sailed  at  12  o'clock  noon.  We  found 


NOTRE  DAME  DE  PARIS  . 


179 


EMPRESS   JOSEPHINE.      REF.    PAGE  85-89-9  [. 


1 80. 


RETURNING   TRIP.  181 

two  of  our  old  fellow  passengers,  Mr.  Ball,  of  Buffalo 
and  Mr.  Watkins  of  California.  It  was  pretty  rough 
weather  for  three  or  four  days  after  we  got  out  from 
the  lea  of  the  British  Islands.  There  were  many  sea- 
sick and  some  very  sick,  who  seemly  cared  little 
whether  they  lived  or  died.  But  in  due  time  or  about 
10  hours  over  we  arrived  safely  in  New  York  City, 
nothing  transpiring  aboard  the  vessel  that  would  be 
outside  of  the  regular  routine.  They  had  divine  ser- 
vice on  board  the  vessel  on  Sunday.  The  service  be- 
ing read  by  the  Captain,  We  did  not  hear  it,  those 
who  did  said  it  was  very  monotonous.  After  we  ar- 
rived in  New  York  harbor  we  took  on  board  31  offi- 
cers of  the  law  to  look  us  over.  Each  one  was  re- 
quired to  give  our  name  and  the  number  of  the  pieces 
of  our  baggage  and  whether  we  had  anything  which 
was  dutiable.  We  having  nothing  was  passed  through 
the  custom  house  by  simply  opening  our  grips  for 
them  to  inspect. 

It  being  Saturday  and  too  late  for  the  Providence 
boat  we  were  obliged  to  spend  Sunday  in  New  York. 
In  order  to  put  in  the  day  so  that  nothing  should  be 
lost,  we  went  to  the  Central  Park  and  into  Riverside 
Park.  Central  Park  is  nicely  laid  out,  quite  as  well 
as  some  we  had  seen  in  France,  England  and  Scotland. 
Riverside  Park  are  new  grounds,  and  will  some  day 
be  very  fine.  General  Grant's  Tomb  is  located  on 
the  highest  points  in  the  Park.  The  Monument  is 
fine,  costing  about  600,000  dollars.  It  is  something 
on  the  order  of  Napoleon  Boneparte's,  in  Paris,  France, 
only  while  Grant's  cost  600,000  dollars,  Boneparte's 
cost  about  6,000,000. 


182  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

Sunday  afternoon  and  Monday  were  two  warm 
days  and  we  did  little  but  write  and  not  very  much 
of  that.  But  5  P.  M.  found  us  on  board  the  boat  for 
Stonington,  Connecticut.  This  was  a  delightful  sail 
one  that  every  one  can  enjoy.  The  water  was  smooth 
and  the  evening  cool,  and  in  a  floating  palace,  what 
.more  could  one  ask?  In  going  out  of  East  River  and 
under  the  Brooklyn  Bridge,  we  had  a  chance  to  see 
all  of  New  York's  Asylums  and  Prisons,  and  the  piers 
for  the  new  bridge  which  they  are  preparing  to  build. 
"We  had  a  nice  supper  of  clams  and  other  good  things 
which  we  enjoyed  while  we  could  sail  and  look  upon 
land  on  each  side.  We  had  nice  rooms  and  beds 
which  can  be  found  no  where  better  or  more  pleasant 
than  on  board  these  boats. 

In  the  morning  we  took  the  cars  for  Mystic  and 
from  there  a  team,  and  arrived  at  the  old  farm  in 
Ledyard,  about  10  A.  M.  We  found  our  brother  Ray- 
mond and  wife  Phebe,  and  family  quite  well.  After 
looking  over  the  farm,  we  went  with  our  brother's 
family  to  the  cemetery  where  nearly  all  of  the  eastern 
friends  are  buried.  We  then  called  on  George  M. 
Gray  and  wife,  George  being  an  old  school  mate 
whose  head  like  our  own  is  blossoming  for  the  be- 
yond. The  next  morning  we  called  to  see  Mr.  Eccle- 
stone  and  wife,  Mrs.  C.  Stanton  and  Mrs.  J.  Williams. 
The  last  two  being  old  acquaintances  whose  compan- 
ions have  passed  on  and  they  are  left  to  complete 
their  work  of  merc}r. 

We  also  called  on  Mrs.  B.  Turner  and  her  step- 
daughter Kate.  Mrs.  Turner  is  past  the  one  hun- 
dretb  mile  stone.  Her  daughter  Kate  is  73  years  old. 


VISITS    AMONG    FRIENDS.  183 

When  Miss  Kate  was  18  years  old  she  met  with  some 
crosses  which  clouded  her  intellect  and  for  55  years 
has  had  this  delusion  to  carry.  Though  very  old  she 
has  clung  to  her  step-daughter  through  all  those 
years.  May  we  not  expect,  and  shall  she  not  receive 
the  gift  promised  to  those  "who  do  it  unto  one  the 
least  of  these  my  children  have  done  it  unto  me." 

We  then  returned  to  Mystic  and  took  the  cars  for 
Jewett  City.  We  found  our  brother  Robertson's  wife 
Phebe  and  family  enjoying  good  health.  One  son 
Curtis,  lives  on  a  farm  about  two  miles  out  from  town. 
His  crops  were  promising  well  and  we  pronounced 
his  a  happy  family.  The  daughter  Ella,  husband, 
and  two  children,  were  living  in  town.  The  eldest 
has  a  position  as  bookeeper  for  the  largest  business 
in  town.  The  other  a  youth  of  about  10  was  prepar- 
ing to  celebrate  the  glorious  Fourth.  From  there  we 
dropped  down  to  Norwich  and  called  on  the  other  son 
Robertson  and  family,  a  wife  and  two  daughters.  He 
is  pleasantly  situated,  and  has  a  position  worth  over 
1,000  dollars  qer  year. 

One  of  the  firm  called  me  to  one  side  and  told  me 
that  my  nephew  had  been  with  them  17  years,  and  in 
that  time  they  had  not  found  a  wrong  in  his  dealings 
with  them  and  their  customers,  and  that  they  fully 
appreciated  his  worth  as  a  business  man  as  well  as  in 
a  social  way.  We  thanked  them  for  their  kind  re- 
gards in  his  behalf. 

From  here  we  returned  to  Mystic  and  visited  my 
two  sisters  who  live  in  that  place.  My  eldest  sister, 
Mary,  is  about  75  years  of  age  and  Betsey  is  about 
three  and  one- half  years  younger.  They  are  both 


184  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

well  preserved,  and  we  could  see  no  reason  why  they 
may  not  live  ten  or  fifteen  years  longer. 

Betsey  has  one  daughter  with  whom  she  lives,  and 
Mary  has  three  sons,  and  she  lives  with  one  of  them, 
the  sisters'  partners  having  passed  on  years  before. 

We  called  on  the  wife  of  our  old  friend  and  partner 
James  Mullen,  he  having  passed  away  a  few  months 
ago.  She  has  two  sons  both  being  at  home  with  her. 
Mary's  three  sons  Amos,  Everett  and  Martin,  live  in 
the  place  and  are  connected  with  ship  building. 

One  day  while  in  Mystic  we  took  a  run  over  to 
New  London  on  the  little  steamboat  which  plys  be- 
tween the  two  places.  We  called  upon  Capt.  T.  Brown, 
a  double  cousin  to  my  father.  We  found  him  very 
pleasantly  situated,  though  he  was  suffering  some  from 
rheumatism.  He  was  a  Sea  Captain  in  his  earlier  life 
but  retired  when  he  was  about  fifty  years  of  age.  He 
is  now  over  75  years  old,  and  aside  from  these  pains 
is  a  hale  old  man.  He  has  two  daughters  born  to 
him  late  in  life  which  are  making  his  old  age  very 
pleasant.  His  wife  is  some  years  younger  than  him- 
self, being  a  second  wife,  but  she  is  an  exceedingly 
bright  and  charming  woman.  The  youngest  daugh- 
ter, who  is  quite  young,  took  us  down  to  the  summer 
town,  and  also  to  the  old  fort  where  Col.  Ledyard  was 
killed  in  the  war  of  the  Revolution. 

We  called  upon  Mrs.  Carrie  Whitraore.  She  is  liv- 
ing with  her  daughter  in  the  city  of  New  London. 
Her  son  who  lives  in  California  was  home  on  a  visit. 
We  had  not  seen  him  for  nearly  30  years.  He  is  57 
3rears  of  age  and  is  getting  quite  gray.  We  then  re- 
turned to  Mystic  to  prepare  for  a  picnic  to  be  held  on 


THE    PIC    NIC.  185 

Mason's  Island  the  Fourth.  While  we  were  preparing 
for  the  Fourth  we  called  on  our  old  school  mate  and 
friend  Mrs.  Julia  Main  whose  companion  passed  over 
some  three  or  four  }rears  ago.  She  has  a  nice  home 
and  surroundings,  and  one  adopted  son  who  is  in  his 
second  year  in  a  medical  college. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


FOURTH    OF    JULY. 

The  morning  has  arrived  and  old  Sol  is  shining 
brightly,  and  everybody  and  thing  are  joyous.  Our 
company,  consisting  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  David  Bebee; 
Mrs.  M.  W.  Chapman  and  two  daughters,  Miss 
Lucy  and  Miss  Martie;  Mrs  G.  L.  Barton,  Mr.  Ben- 
nett, Mr.  Sheridan,  and  your  humble  servant  and 
daughter.  We  had  a  sail  boat  and  row  boat.  Having 
plenty  of  wind  we  were  able  to  lay  our  course  out  of 
the  river  and  round  the  point  and  into  the  cove.  Our 
sail  boat  was  too  large  to  run  up  to  the  shore  so  we 
anchored  off  about  20  rods  from  shore  and  carried  our 
baskets  and  people  ashore  in  the  small  boat.  We 
found  on  landing  nearly  enough  to  commence  keeping 
house  with.  We  had  our  kettle,  our  dishes,  and  a, 
part  of  a  stove,  besides  our  pails,  our  pans  and  our 


186 


PARIS      EXPOSITION. 


pitchers,  and  almost  any  amount  of  bread,  cakes  and 
pies.  The  first  thing  on  landing  was  to  start  a  fire 
and  cook  an  old  fashion  chowder,  and  roast  some 
clams.  We  also  had  crabs  to  use  as  a  sandwich.  We 
were  born  near  the  salt  sea  shore,  but  we  have  not  en- 
joyed such  a  Fourth  of  July  dinner  for  over  40  years. 

With  the  exception  of  ourself,  the  most  of  them 
were  young  people,  and  they  enjoyed  themselves 
as  young  people  know  best  how  and  what  to  do. 

After  we  had  all  partaken  of  a  sumptuous  repast, 
we  all  sought  out  the  amusement  most  pleasing  for 
the  intervening  three  or  four  hours  before  we  were  to 
leave  the  island. 

As  we  alwaj^s  like  to  read  after  a  hearty  dinner  we 
found  a  book  which  was  quite  interesting  and  went 
up  into  the  more  central  part  of  the  high  lands  into 
a  cool  shady  nook  and  remained  until  called  by  the 
company  to  prepare  for  tea  and  to  return  to  the  main 
land,  as  it  was  thought  best  to  return  before  the  eve- 
ning's twilight  should  swallow  up  the  breezes  of  the 
afternoon. 

After  we  had  again  eaten  of  the  good  things  which 
had  been  brought  and  prepared,  we  were  called  upon 
to  read  each  a  short  horoscope  of  what  might  happen 
to  us  at  some  future  time.  We  had  a  bright  compa- 
ny and  we  hope  that  each  ma3T  have  as  pleasant  a  fu- 
ture as  we  saw  in  their  hands.  We  chose  just  the 
right  time  to  return,  as  the  wind  soon  died  aw&y  after 
we  tied  to  the  stake  in  the  harbor. 

Our  next  trip  was  to  Noank  to  see  one  of  the  New 
York  railroad  car  barges  launched.  It  was  30C  feet 
jong  and  30  feet  wide.  The  launching  was  a  success. 


NIAGARA    FALLS.  187 

On  the  evening  of  the  fifth  of  July  we  returned  to 
New  York,  and  the  next  evening  we  took  the  cars  for 
Niagara  Falls,  arriving  there  about  8  o'clock  A.  M. 
on  the  seventh  instance. 

Almost  everybody  in  this  country  have  heard  of 
Niagara  Falls,  and  many  thousands  go  every  year  to 
see  them,  and  we  believe  every  one  who  have  seen 
them  have  either  talked  or  written  about  their  great- 
ness, and  it  would  poorly  become  us  in  face  of  so  ma- 
ny descriptions  to  launch  what  little  we  could  say  in 
the  face  of  so  much  that  would  be  far  better,  therefore 
what  little  we  may  say  will  be  more  in  the  line  of 
statistics  of  the  size  and  weight  of  what  we  may  note. 

The  Falls  are  grand  which  every  one  knows,  and 
none  like  them  in  the  whole  world.  The  river  directly 
above  the  falls  is  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile  wide, 
and  it  falls  a  perpendicular  height  of  over  160  feet, 
and  the  water  is  supposed  to  be  twenty  or  more  feet 
deep  directly  at  the  falls.  There  is  about  55  feet 
fall  from  the  river  above  to  the  verge  of  the  falls, 
which  give  the  water  a  velocity  of  nearly  forty  miles 
per  hour.  There  is  about  100  feet  fall  from  the  foot 
of  Niagara  to  Lake  Ontario,  making  nearly  350  feet 
fall  between  Lake  Erie  and  the  St.  Lawrence  River, 
this  being  the  greatest  outlet  for  water  kno  wnj  n 
history. 

There  are  many  places  of  interest  for  the  traveler 
to  visit.  Goat  Island  has  many  points  that  should 
be  seen.  Among  them  the  Cave  of  the  Winds;  the 
Horseshoe  Falls,  the  American  Falls;  the  Three  Sis- 
ters; the  bridge  to  Luna  Island;  and  the  views  of  the 
different  bridges. 


188  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

There  are  three  bridges  spanning  this  stream  below 
the  falls,  from  900  to  1300  feet '  in  length  and  have 
cost  millions  of  dollars.  But  we  could  not  have  done 
well  without  them.  There  have  been  several  sensa- 
tions in  connection  with  the  falls.  At  one  time  Sam 
Patch  jumped  from  the  falls.  At  another  time  Cap- 
tain Webb  attempted  to  swim  the  rapids  and  lost  his 
life  by  so  doing. 

Blondin  succeeded  in  walking  a  tight  rope  across 
where  the  river  was  1200  feet  wide. 

Belleni  while  walking  across  when  in  the  middle  he 
threw  himself  into  the  water  a  distance  of  200  feet. 

Maria  Spelterina  crossed  on  a  tight  rope  with  her 
feet  in  peach  baskets. 

Peer  jumped  from  the  Suspension  Bridge  into  the 
river  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  feet. 

There  are  many  victims  of  this  cataract.  Suicides, 
accidental  drownings  and  even  murders  frequently 
happen  here.  But  they  all  have  a  horrid  history  and 
we  shall  omit  them  entirely. 

In  regard  to  the  geological  construction  of  the  coun- 
try we  think  there  is  no  doubt  but  formerly,  in  the 
long  past,  that  the  real  falls  were  once  located  at 
Lewiston,  and  that  the  cataract  dug  out  this  mighty 
chasm,  and  this  cutting  process  is  still  going  on  at 
various  rates  of  speed,  and  that  in  the  distant  fu- 
ture we  shall  have  only  great  rapids  without  the  falls. 

It  is  supposed  the  water  is  wearing  away  the  falls 
at  the  rate  of  about  three  feet  per  year  since  1818.  It 
is  estimated  that  it  has  taken  about  35,000  years  to 
wear  the  falls  from  where  they  formerly  were  to  where 
they  now  are. 


RETURN  FROM  THE  FALLS  189 

It  is  not  now  believed  that  the  washing  away  the 
rocky  parts  of  the  falls  will  effect  in  the  least  the  wa- 
ter level  of  the  lakes,  for  when  the  wearing  process 
shall  have  continued  as  much  further  as  it  has  al- 
ready, the  falls  will  only  be  one  great  rapid  without 
effecting  the  water  in  Lake  Erie  a  particle,  the  fall  of 
the  whole  watercourse  being  less  than  40  feet  to  the 
mile,  and  the  water  at  the  upper  part  of  the  ripples 
would  be  about  the  same  depth  that  it  is  now. 

This  will  close  our  remarks  about  Niagara,  and  set 
us  on  our  way  home.  We  have  little  more  to  add. 
We  arrived  home  in  the  due  course  of  events,  it  rain- 
ing long  before  we  left  Cleveland  and  until  we  arrived 
at  Norwalk  and  for  some  hours  afterwards.  The  cars 
had  discontinued  running  on  account  of  the  electric- 
al storm,  and  ran  no  more  until  the  next  day.  We  ar- 
rived home  the  following  morning  and  found  our 
friends  all  well,  we  having  been  gone  from  home  over 
sixty  days,  and  in  that  time  neither  of  us  had  lost  a 
meal  by  ill  health. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


LECTURE   I. 

This  lecture  was  delivered  in  July,  1900,  soon  af- 
ter our  return  from  Paris,  at  Maple  Dell,  near  Mantua 
Station,  Ohio;  before  the  Spiritualists  of  that  Camp. 

We  shall  make  this  lecture  just  a  plain  talk  with 
you,  without  any  attempt  to  round  off  the  corners,  or 
make  any  pretentions  to  oratory.  Everything  will  be 
told  in  a  matter  of  fact  way  and  in  as  plain  lauguage 
as  we  can  use  to  express  our  ideas. 

The  first  thing  we  did  after  we  conclued  to  go  to 
Paris,  was  to  see  about  securing  a  passage.  We 
found  several  routs  by  which  we  could  go,  but  as  far 
as  we  could  learn  the  same  accornodations  would 
cost  the  same  money,  accordingly  we  selected  the 
American  Transportation  Company  from  New  York 
to  Southamptan,  England,  and  from  there  to  Paris  by 
the  way  of  Harvre.  Then  the  question  arose  what 
class  of  fare  should  we  take.  The  steerage  fare  was 
from  25  to  35  dollars.  The  scond  cabin  was  from  50 
to  70  dollars,  and  the  first  cabin  was  from  100  to  200 
dollars  each  way,  according  to  the  location.  This  is 
between  New  York  and  Southampton.  If  they  are  all 
men  they  may  take  the  cheapest  fare  in  the  second 

190 


PARIS    EXPOSITION.  191 

cabin,  which  would  make  their  fare  from  Cleveland  to 
Paris  and  return  about  140  dollars.  If  you  should 
go  direct  to  the  fair  and  back,  you  should  purchase 
50  dollars  worth  of  American  Express  Orders,  but  if 
you  wish  to  make  a  tour  of  England  and  Germany 
you  should  have  at  least  100  dollars  worth  of  these 
orders.  They  will  cost  you  one  per  cent  here  and 
you  can  get  the  cash  in  gold  and  silver  in  what  ever 
country  you  go  to  and  want  the  money.  There  will 
be  some  other  small  expenses  and  tips  which  will 
probably  amount  to  10,  making  about  200  dollars,  if 
you  stay  in  Paris  about  15  days,  and  250  if  you  put 
in  10  days  more  in  England  and  Germany.  Of  course 
you  cannot  make  a  very  extended  trip  in  England  and 
Germany  for  $50,  but  you  can  see  much  for  that  mon- 
ey  if  y°u  ar*e  economical. 

"We  have  just  taken  you  from  home  and  rushed  you 
to  Paris  and  over  England  and  German}'',  and  home 
again  without  giving  you  so  much  as  a  single  meal 
to  eat  or  a  bottle  of  wine  to  drink,  and  now  we  are 
going  to  tell  you  what  you  will  have  when  you  get  on 
ship  board,  if  you  secure  a  second  cabin  passage  from 
New  York  to  Southampton. 

If  you  happen  to  get  a  room  on  the  upper  deck  you 
will  have  a  very  cool  and  airy  berth.  It  may  be  rath- 
er small,  yet  if  you  are  not  seasick  you  will  have  all 
the  room  you  really  need.  Your  first  meal  will  be 
dinner  at  one  o'clock  sun  time.  It  will  be  well  pre- 
pared and  plenty  of  it.  At  four  there  will  be  tea  or 
cofl'ee  and  sea  biscuits  passed  around.  At  5 :30  you 
will  get  a  good  supper,  and  at  9:30  o'clock  you  will 
have  bread,  cheese  and  tea  with  butter  and  crackers. 


192  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

At  8  A.  M.  breakfast  is  called,  and  at  11  A.  M.  a 
lunch.  If  you  are  not  sea  sick  you  will  be  ready  for 
all  these  six  meals,  and  probably  would  not  care  if 
there  were  two  or  three  more  of  them.  This  eating 
will  pass  from  day  to  day  until  you  arrive  at  the  Eng- 
lish port,  if  you  are  well,  but  if  you  are  seasick  you 
will  care  for  little  to  eat  and  could  not  eat  it  if  you 
had  ever  so  much. 

When  you  arrive  in  England  you  have  the  Custom 
House  to  pass  through.  If  you  have  but  little  bag- 
gage, and  no  tobacco  or  liquors  you  will  have  no  troub- 
le. If  you  claim  to  have  none  of  these  things,  and 
they  find  anything  of  the  kind,  it  will  be  confiscated 
and  a  fine  from  50  to  500  dollars  and  imprisonment 
from  one  to  five  years.  Therefore  it  stands  all  in 
hand  to  deal  honorably  with  the  different  governments. 
You  will  take  a  steamboat  at  Southampton  for  Havre, 
and  when  you  arrive  at  port  you  will  be  again  exam- 
ined by  the  French  government.  If  nothing  is  found 
that  is  dutiable  you  can  go  on  board  the  cars  for  Par- 
is. When  you  arrive  here  you  are  Janded  in  one  of 
the  largest  stations  in  France.  If  you  cannot  speak 
French  and  have  no  one  with  you  who  can,  you  will 
have  to  go  to  some  official  who  will  find  an  interpreter 
for  you.  Though  if  you  have  the  name  of  a  hotel  you 
can  get  a  cab  to  take  you  to  the  house,  and  they  will 
find  some  one  who  can  speak  English,  or  you  can  go 
to  a  American  house,  but  you  will  have  to  pay  about 
double  for  what  you  get. 

The  cab  charges  will  be  about  one  franc  for  each 
person.  The  charges  at  a  French  hotel  will  be  from 
five  to  ten  francs  per  da}r  for  a  room.  Two  rooming 


PARIS    EXPOSITION.  193 

together  will  have  to  pay  about  two-thirds  each  of  the 
above  rates.  Board  at  a  restaurant  will  cost  from  one 
to  two  francs  for  each  meal.  This  would  include  the 
"tips'7  which  one  is  expected  to  make,  both  at  the  ho- 
tel and  the  restaurant  These  k'tips"  are  considered  as 
a  part  of  the  regular  fare.  At  a  French  house  the 
waiters  get  no  wages  from  the  proprietor,  and  some  of 
them  pay  from  two  to  five  francs  a  day  for  the  privil- 
ege of  working  there. 

At  the  hotels  nearly  all  the  waiters  and  chamber- 
maids are  bo}7s,  or  men,  being  from  25  to  40  years  of 
age;  while  at  the  "tony"  restaurants  the  waiters  will 
be  all  girls,  and  the  prettiest  that  can  be  found  in  the 
country,  and  they  will  be  dressed  fine  enough  to  step 
into  any  church. 

These  girls  pay  from  four  to  ten  francs  per  day  for 
the  privilege  of  waiting  upon  the  tables.  Some  of 
these  girls  can  speak  English,  and  are  of  different  na- 
tionalities. They  get  their  pay  by  and  through  the 
"tips"  which  each  one  pays  for  being  waited  on.  It 
is  expected  that  every  one  will  give  at  least  one  penny 
of  our  money  and  as  much  more  as  they  will.  And 
here  let  me  say  that  you  get  the  best  service  at  these 
restaurants  that  you  can  find  in  any  place  or  country. 
As  their  salary  depends  very  largely  upon  the  atten- 
tion they  give,  you  may  be  assured  that  you  will  get 
the  best  care  that  it  is  possible  for  them  to  render. 

We  found  by  actual  demonstration  that  we  could 
get  a  very  good  dinner  with  some  of  the  extras  for 
about  thirty  cents. 

If  one  has  plenty  of  money  and  wishes  to  make  an 
elaborate  display  they  can  go  to  an  American  hotel 


194 


PARIS    EXPOSITION. 


operated  on  the  "pension"  system,  which  is  to  pay 
from  25  to  40  dollars  per  week  for  your  accomodations 
which  would  be  no  better  than  at  the  other  place  for 
one- half  the  money. 

We  have  now  told  you  about  what  it  will  cost  to 
make  the  trip  to  the  Exposition,  and  now  we  will  try 
to  give  you  a  description  of  some  of  the  things  you 
can  see.  and  whether  it  will  pay  you  to  make  the 
outlay. 

We  do  really  think  this  is  the  largest  and  grand- 
est show  the  world  has  ever  seen.  Not  only  is  it  the 
largest  when  compared  as  regards  to  extent  in  num- 
ber of  exhibits,  but  also  in  the  number  of  articles  in 
each  exhibit. 

The  foreign  buildings  are  something  grand;  in 
fact  it  is  almost  beyond  the  power  of  imagination  to 
conjure  anything  that  would  be  half  as  fairy  like  as 
many  of  those  buildings. 

We  cannot  give  you  anything  like  a  description  un- 
less you  have  seen  something  of  a  similar  kind  to 
build  a  picture  upon.  Some  of  these  cottages  or 
buildings,  as  we  should  call  them,  are  fanciful  in  de- 
sign, that  is  we  in  this  country  would  or  could  find  no 
use  for  such  a  building,  unless  we  should  use  it  for  a 
summer  house  to  sit  in  when  we  were  tired  after  hav- 
ing been  overworked  either  physically  or  mentally, 
and  then  a  hammock  hung  in  the  shadow  of  one  of 
these  magnificent  sugar  trees  where  a  cool  breeze 
could  play  upon  us  would  be  just  as  useful  as  one  of 
those  buildings  where  thousands  had  been  expended 
to  please  the  eye.  So  to  a  great  extent  are  thousands 
of  the  articles  which  are  being  exhibited  by  the 


PARIS    EXPOSITION.  195 

foreign  nations.  Their  articles  would  be  entirely  use- 
less to  us  of  the  American  people,  yet  they  are  great 
works  of  art. 

The  entrance  to  the  Exposition  is  a  fine  arch-way 
the  like  of  which  has  never  before  been  erected,  and 
as  you  pass  through  it  you  enter  into  the  finest  gar- 
den of  hot  houses  the  world  has  ever  seen;  where  all 
kinds  of  vegetables  and  flowers  are  propagated.  You 
can  see  nearly  all  kinds  in  their  various  stages,  from 
the  seed  to  the  fully  matured  vegetable,  plant,  shrub, 
or  flower. 

On  the  right  of  this  the  most  wonderful  of  great 
wonders,  you  will  see  two  of  the  most  magnificent 
works  of  the  Paris  Exposition.  They  are  the  two 
grand  Palaces  built  in  the  last  three  years,  expressly 
for  this  fair.  One  is  called  the  Grande  palace,  and  the 
other  is  called  the  Petit  palace,  so  named  because  one 
is  much  smaller  than  the  other. 

These  two  palaces  are  built  entirely  of  marble  and 
are  designed  to  remain  after  the  exposition  is  closed. 
They  cost  about  5,000,000  dollars.  There  is  the  larg- 
est and  finest  collection  of  statues  that  has  ever  been 
gathered  in  one  place. 

Farther  down  on  the  north  side  of  the  River  Seine, 
is  a  section  representing  Old  Paris  as  it  was  500  to 
800  years  ago,  with  her  old  buildings,  and  the  way 
business  was  at  that  time.  Then  comes  the  Palace 
Trocadero.  This  is  one  of  the  buildings  left  from  the 
Exposition  of  1881.  This  building  is  made  of  mar- 
ble and  is  very  fine;  costing  something  like  two  mil- 
lion dollars,  and  is  used  for  statues,  sculpture  work, 
and  paintings. 


196  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

A  finer  collection  of  old  works  can  hardly  be  found 
on  the  continent. 

Under  this  immense  structure  with  its  naves  mak- 
ing it  nearly  1,000  feet  long,  is  a  cave  which  represents 
everything  the  mind  can  conceive.  Even  the  dungeons 
of  the  darkest  prisons,  as  well  as  the  vaults  of  the 
finest  wine  cellars.  This  cave  or  underground  pas- 
sage way  is  of  quite  large  extent.  The  walls  measur- 
ing several  hundred  feet.  There  are  niches  where  are 
placed  many  rare  pictures  which  are  so  arranged  that 
they  present  peculiar  scenes.  One  represents  a  scene 
in  the  Alps  where  a  man  has  lost  his  footing  and  has 
gone  down  hundreds  of  feet  there  to  remain  until  the 
day  of  recording;  another  of  some  huge  animal  which 
has  become  extinct;  another  of  a  hermit  who  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  John  the  Baptist.  There  is  the 
pit  where  all  bad  people  are  cast,  and  many  other 
scenes  which  we  do  not  remember.  This  is  a  very  pe- 
culiar piece  of  work,  and  the  artistic  part  of  it  seems 
to  be  quite  perfect. 


CHAPTER   XXVIII. 
LECTURE  II. 

THE  EIFFLE    TOWER. 

The  Eiffle  tower  stands  near  this  point.  Well  what 
can  we  say  about  this  Tower?  We  answer  that  we 
have  no  descriptions  which  we  can  give  as  to  exact- 
ness of  size.  It  stands  near  the  bank  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river  Seine.  It  is  built  upon  four  enor- 
mous stone  piers,  and  spans  far  enough  to  cover  four 
square  acres  of  ground.  Upon  the  piers  which  are 
but  a  few  feet  high  begins  this  wonderful  structure. 
It  is  built  entirely  of  iron  and  steel.  It  is  built  some- 
thing like  one  of  those  derricks  which  are  erected  to 
drill  for  oil  and  gas.  It  is  one  thousand  feet  high, 
and  people  can  go  up  to  within  90  feet  of  the  top. 
There  are  three  platforms  and  one  stop  in  going  up. 
The  cars  to  the  first  platform  will  accommodate  100 
persons,  from  there  to  the  second  50  can  ride,  from 
this  to  the  third  the  car  will  hold  25  persons.  This 
takes  you  to  the  upper  platform,  910  feet  above  the 
ground.  We  cannot  say  that  we  could  discover  any 
great  difference  in  breathing  the  air  at  this  height  or 
that  on  the  ground,  but  we  could  feel  that  there  was 
a  difference  in  the  temperature,  perhaps  10  degrees. 

197 


198  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

The  Tower  is  built  so  strong  and  braced  so  well  that 
it  is  perfectly  safe  to  go  up  to  the  highest  platform. 
There  was  quite  a  strong  breeze  the  day  we  went  up, 
but  we  could  feel  very  little  swaying.  It  is  said  that 
six  inches  is  all  the  vibration  there  will  be  when  the 
wind  is  blowing  a  fifty  mile  gale.  It  is  said  that  some 
can  feel  the  difference  in  the  density  of  the  air  while 
breathing  it,  and  therefore  do  not  like  to  go  to  the  top. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  this  Tower  is  something 
which  cannot  be  obtained  from  any  other  point  in  or 
about  Paris  There  is  no  tower  or  elevation  of  land 
that  is  more  than  500  feet  high,  therefore  when  you 
are  at  the  top  of  this  tower  you  are  at  least  400  feet 
above  any  other  elevation  in  this  part  of  the  country. 
We  do  not  think  the  view  from  the  top  of  this  tower 
to  objects  near  by  is  as  good'  as  it  is  about  half  way 
up.  From  the  top  it  seems  to  make  the  objects  too 
small,  but  at  a  greater  distance  away  the  view  is  bet- 
ter. At  the  highest  elevation  men  and  horses  near  by 
look  like  small  and  large  flies  crawling  along  upon 
the  ground,  and  you  could  not  tell  the  difference  be- 
tween a  man  and  woman,  or  between  them  and 
horses. 

From  the  top  of  this  tower  you  get  a  complete  view 
of  the  Exposition  Grounds,  also  of  the  whole  city  of 
Paris.  The  old  city  was  fenced  in  with  a  stone  wall 
and  mound  of  earth  about  24  feet  high,  and  15  miles 
long,  and  in  this  wall  are  32  gate-ways  by  which  the 
city  could  be  entered.  Outside  this  stone  wall  was  a 
ditch  20  or  more  feet  wide  and  half  as  deep  which 
could  be  filled  with  water.  This  ditch  was  filled 
from  the  River  Seine. 


PARIS   EXPOSITION.  199 

A  portion  of  this  wall,  gates  and  ditch,  can  be  seen 
from  this  tower;  also  the  whole  extent  of  the  city  may 
be  seen,  even  some  of  the  little  burghs  which  are 
near  by. 

To  get  a  view  of  the  City  of  Paris  at  one  cast  of 
the  eye  would  be  worth  going  many  miles  to  see,  and, 
in  fact,  to  enjoy  this  scene  you  must  go  over  3,000 
miles,  and  then  be  elevated  to  the  top  of  this  tower, 
the  cost  of  this  upward  trip  being  $1. 

The  Exposition  grounds,  as  viewed  from  this  tower, 
forms  a  great  cross.  The  River  Seine  running 
through  the  standing  part.  This  part  is  about  two 
and  a  half  or  three  miles  long  up  to  where  the  cross 
piece  would  be  attached.  This  upright  will  be  a  lit- 
tle less  than  half  a  mile  wide.  The  cross  piece  is 
about  one  and  a  half  miles  long  and  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  wide.  At  the  foot,  forming  a  heavy  base,  is  the 
two  grand  palaces  on  the  north  side  of  the  River 
Seine,  and  two  palaces  of  grand  exhibits  on  the  south 
of  the  river.  Thus  you  have  as  good  an  outline  of  the 
fair  grounds  as  we  can  project.  The  River  Seine  is 
from  300  to  800  feet  wide,  perhaps  at  this  point  it  is 
400  feet  wide. 

We  get  a  very  fine  view  of  the  Seine  from  this  tow- 
er. You  can  see  it  for  more  than  20  miles  as  it  winds 
itself  in  and  out  among  the  knolls  and  small  hills. 
Now  you  can  see  it,  and  then  it  will  be  lost  to  your 
view  by  some  magnificent  palace  which  has  been  erect- 
ed by  the  Crown,  or  by  some  wealthy  person  for  the 
exhibit  of  works  of  art  or  of  nature.  There  are  many 
of  those  grand  edifices  in  different  parts  of  the  city, 
but  3rou  will  find  more  of  them  along  and  near  the 


200  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

river  bank  than  at  any  other  place,  as  close  by  the 
river  seems  to  be  the  fashionable  and  more  modern 
parts  of  the  city. 

It  is  said  by  some  that  the  French  are  an  extrava- 
gant people.  This  may  be  so  to  a  certain  extent. 
And  this  is  a  point  we  have  been  trying  to  study. 
France  is  not  a  large  country,  neither  is  she  a  rich 
country  internally.  Her  resources  would  seem  to  be 
quite  limited,  and  yet  she  has  built  up  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  and  the  richest  city  in  palaces,  and 
grand  edifices  with  arts,  of  sculpture,  statuary  and 
paintings,  that  the  world  has  ever  seen.  And  besides 
this,  all  the  way  down  for  the  last  thousand  years,  and 
nearly  up  to  the  present  time — for  in  1870  the  Com- 
munes pulled  down  the  Monumental  Vendome  and 
barricaded  the  streets  of  Paris  with  cannons  and 
fought  the  city  after  the  French  government  had  been 
conquered  by  the  Germans.  And  this  mob  of  intern- 
al strife  did  more  damage  to  the  city  than  was  done  by 
the  German  army  in  capturing  it.  The  re-raising  of 
the  Column  Vendome  and  the  rebuildings  of  the 
structures  which  were  destroyed  by  that  insurrection, 
had  only  just  been  accomplished,  when  France  votes 
100,000,000  francs  for  an  Exposition— they  have  been 
ruled  by  Kings,  who  have  taxed  the  people  to  the  very 
verge  of  bankruptcy.  We  learn  that  in  two  years  one 
of  the  Rulers  run  the  City  of  Paris  in  debt  to  the 
amount  of  90,000,000  francs.  What  did  the  City  do? 
Nothing,  only  assumed  it,  and  paid  the  last  centime. 
Then  they  have  had  religious  wars  that  have  seemed 
to  sweep  through  and  shake  the  country  from  the  cen- 
ter to  the  circumference.  We  shall  only  refer  to  the 


PARIS    EXPOSITION.  201 

St.  Betholomew  massacre  when  over  70,000  of  France's 
best  citizens  were  killed  in  cold  blood — yet  notwith- 
standing all  those  involutions,  she  has  rallied,  gained 
her  footing  within  herself,  and  assumed  her  position 
among  nations,  being  able  to  pay  the  enormous  sum 
of  $1,000,000,000  demanded  by  Germany. 

But  we  must  return  to  our  view  of  the  River  Seine 
from  the  top  of  the  Eiffle  Tower.  The  river  looks  if 
we  might  compare  it  to  a  huge  serpent  as  it  would 
coil  itself  to  move  along  upon  the  earth,  the  head  and 
other  extremity  being  lost  to  view.  Spanning  this 
river  in  a  distance  of  less  than  twenty  miles  there  are 
36  bridges  to  cross  and  recross  this  peculiar  stream 
of  water.  Some  of  these  bridges  are  the  very  finest 
works  of  mechanical  skill,  costing  up  to  nearly  the 
million  mark. 

But  we  must  now  come  down  from  the  tower  and 
take  3*ou  through  the  grounds  of  the  Fair.  As  the 
Eiffle  Tower  is  situated  in  the  grounds  nearly  where 
the  head  of  a  person  would  have  been  if  hung  upon  a 
wooden  cross,  the  Palace  Trocadero  and  underground 
caves  would  be  where  the  left  hand  would  be  nailed, 
and  the  right  arm  and  hand  would  occupy  where  the 
manufacturing  and  general  transportation,  with  the 
electro  and  everything  connected  with  electricity  are 
located. 

We  are  hardly  able  to  give  you  anything  like  a  com- 
plete description  of  the  exhibits  in  this  arm  of  the 
grounds.  We  can  with  all  sincerity  say  that  there  is 
the  largest  collection  of  electrical  inventions  that  has 
ever  been  gathered  together  at  any  place,  or  under 
any  roof  in  the  world.  You  will  see  in  the  electrical 


202  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

building  which  is  many  hundred  feet  long,  all  the 
machines  which  are  to  produce  and  apply  electricity, 
both  modern  and  more  ancient.  As  we  are  not  an 
advanced  student  in  electricity  we  shall  leave  those 
inventions  for  others  who  are  more  capable  to  explain. 
Though  in  our  company  we  had  an  agent  from  a  firm, 
who  had  a  machine  perfected  which  by  talking  into, 
would  register  12  copies  of  what  you  would  say  at  the 
same  time. 

The  Manufactures  and  Agricultural  Building  are  so 
lapped  on  to  each  other  that  they  form  a  continuous 
building  over  a  thousand  feet  long.  This  building  is 
galleried  upon  each  side  aud  must  be  more  than  a 
100  feet  wide,  giving  an  immense  floor  space  for  ex- 
hibits. 

Among  the  articles  here  to  be  seen  may  be  found 
almost  everything  that  the  mind  can  conceive,  which 
is  in  any  way  connected  with  agriculture,  or  in  the 
changing  of  anything  that  is  produced  by  or  through 
agriculture,  or  through  the  mines  into  manufactured 
articles. 

It  would  be  unnecessary  for  us  to  describe,  or  even 
name  the  different  articles  that  may  be  seen  here. 
But  to  give  a  thought  to  those  who  wish  to  think,  we 
will  simply  take  the  seed  of  a  blackwalnut,  and  plant 
it  in  the  ground,  tend  it  until  it  becomes  a  large  tree, 
then  cut  it,  haul  it  to  the  mill  and  saw  it  into  lumber; 
after  which  it  should  go  through  the  planer  and  turn- 
ing lathe,  and  through  the  hands  of  the  mechanic  un- 
til it  becomes  a  piece  of  perfect  furniture. 

Now  let  us  take  you  back  to  the  seed,  and  we  wish 
you  to  think  what  kind  of  tools  it  took  to  put  this 


PARIS      EXPOSITION.  203 

ground  into  a  good  state  of  cultivation  and  grow  this 
tree,  Then  what  kinds  of  machinery  it  would  take 
to  cut  and  saw  this  tree  into  lumber.  Then  would 
come  more  complicated  machinery  to  plane  and  turn 
it,  and  still  more  skill  from  the  mechanic  and  artist 
to  bring  it  to  its  completion.  Now  when  }TOU  have 
seen  in  your  mind's  eye,  every  implement,  complica- 
ted machine,  and  artistic  skill  that  has  been  used  in 
bringing  this  seed  to  its  highest  perfection,  you  have 
only  thought  of  the  implements  which  it  takes  to 
bring  just  one  little  seed  to  its  highest  perfection. 

Then  if  you  will  think  of  the  thousands  of  different 
seeds — among  which  we  might  name  the  wheat  from 
which  our  bread  is  made.  Let  us  follow  this  through 
its  growth  and  to  bread,  and  think  of  the  machines 
used  to  bring  it  to  that  state,  also  what  it  takes  to 
bring  the  berry  and  fruit  to  pies  and  wine,  and  that 
it  takes  different  machines  for  almost  all  kinds  of 
manufactured  goods,  you  will  see  what  an  almost 
numberless  quantity  of  articles  which  are  gathered 
together  in  these  mammoth  buildings.  If  it  was  only 
what  one  nation  would  get  together  there  might  be  a 
possibility  of  their  being  described.  But  when  you 
take  into  consideration  that  all  or  nearly  all  of  this 
enormous  quantity  of  implements  are  being  duplicat- 
ed by  a  hundred  different  nations,  you  can  conceive 
of  the  stupendous  job  you  have  when  you  simply 
look  at  the  exhibits  without  describing  them. 

The  other  side  of  this  right  arm  is  just  as  large  and 
a  great  deal  more  powerful.  On  this  side  is  the 
power  generated  to  drive  all  the  electrical  and  other 
machinery  upon  the  entire  grounds. 


204  PARIS     EXPOSITION. 

It  is  at  this  point  where  it  is  shown  how  these  big 
40  feet  tunnels  are  driven  through  the  earth  under 
the  rivers,  sea  or  through  the  sides  of  the  mountains. 

We  are  now  back  to  the  center  of  the  cross,  and  we 
will  return  to  the  entrance  of  the  fair  by  the  way  of 
the  standing  part  of  the  cross  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river.  In  this  part  of  the  grounds  are  located  nearly 
all  the  buildings  owned  by  the  different  nations;  the 
number  we  cannot  state,  perhaps  60  or  70.  This  is 
where  the  "Midway"  is  located.  We  passed  by  or 
through  all  of  them.  Each  is  built  with  the  pecu- 
liarity of  that  country  being  the  most  prominent  fea- 
ture in  the  building,  and  the  products  exhibited  in 
each  building  are  those  which  are  the  most  particu- 
larly adaptive  to  that  place. 

Here  is  one  of  the  finest  places  on  the  grounds  to 
study  the  different  nations.  There  is  an  exhibit  of  a 
whole  nation  in  one  of  these  palaces.  You  will  see 
the  style  of  their  buildings  in  the  one  the}''  have 
erected.  You  will  see  their  products  by  what  they 
have  on  exhibition,  and  in  many  instances  they  will 
show  you  how  they  grow  them. 

There  are  many^  very  fine  buildings.  Some  which 
have  cost  many  thousands  of  money  .We  can  scarcely 
give  a  description  of  any  place.  These  national 
edifices  are  not  generally  very  large.  Many  of  them 
not  being  over  40  by  100  feet.  Some  being  square 
where  others  would  be  parallelogram  or  a  cross  in 
form.  Some  will  be  one  story  while  others  will  have 
two  or  more.  Some  will  have  cupolas  and  others  will 
have  fine  towers  a  hundred  or  more  feet  high.  Some 
will  have  a  veranda  all  the  wav  around,  and  others 


PARIS    EXPOSITION.  205 

will  have  no  bay  windows  or  stoops  at  all.  It  would 
seem  by  looking  at  them  that  each  architect  aimed  to 
something  as  different  from  what  every  one  else  had 
as  possible.  And  we  think  they  have  accomplished 
that  task. 

On  the  south  side  of  this  standing  part  of  this 
cross  is  the  full  "Midway"  show.  It  is  probably  a  lit- 
tle more  extended  than  the  Midway  was  at  Chicago. 
These  midway  exhibitions  are  mostly  theatrical  per- 
formances, put  on  the  board  by  companies  belonging 
to  the  different  nations,  and  are  in  no  way  connected 
with  the  nation  direct. 

These  shows  are  places  of  some  amusement,  but  the 
most  of  them  quite  a  bit  off  from  what  we  would  term 
first  class  plays  in  this  country.  Many  of  them  if 
played  in  New  York  City  would  have  Anthony  Corn- 
stock  after  them  in  less  than  twenty-four  hours.  But 
in  Paris  nothing  is  impure  to  the  pure  mind.  This 
is  exemplified  at  each  street  corner,  and  at  almost  ev- 
ery street  one  may  see  sculpture,  statues,  and  paint- 
ings representing  every  thing  the  mind  can  conceive 
in  the  animal  and  human  kingdoms,  all  being  repre- 
sented in  a  nude  or  semi-nude  condition. 

That  this  being  the  case  has  had  any  influence  or 
effect  upon  the  people  we  are  not  going  to  predicate 
an  opinion,  as  we  are  not  writing  on  the  moral  status 
of  the  French  nation,  but  only  telling  what  we  saw  of 
the  fair,  although  no  doubt  some  of  the  things  enact- 
ed behind  the  scenes  might  shock  a  better  man  than 
our  old  friend  Anthony,  but  that  part  of  the  play 
would  have  no  place  in  this  essay. 

And  now  after  leaving  the   national   buildings  and 


206  PARIS    EXPOSITION. 

the  "Midway"  we  have  arrived  near  the  base  of  our 
cross  and  about  ready  to  make  our  exit.  Whether 
the  French  nation  being  strongly  catholic,  conceived 
the  idea  of  their  exhibition  grounds  being  in  the  form 
of  a  large  cross  we  do  not  know,  but  when  we  looked 
upon  a  chart  and  saw  its  location,  and  attempted  to 
give  it  a  description  we  could  think  of  no  other  way 
of  describing  it. 

And  now  in  addition  to  what  we  have  already  said, 
we  might  give  you  our  idea  of  which  was  the  best  ex- 
hibit on  the  ground.  If  we  were  to  answer  a  question 
like  this  we  should  say  there  is  but  little  difference  be- 
tween the  four  great  nations.  That  is  England, 
France,  Germany  and  the  United  States.  In  some  de- 
partments we  would  think  our  nation  ahead,  in  other 
departments  some  other  one  would  take  the  lead.  For 
the  buildings  and  the  great  quality  and  quantity  of 
the  exhibits,  France  stands  several  hundred  per  cent 
above  all  others,  and  it  is  supposed  that  would  be  the 
case  as  they  are  all  at  home. 

And  probably  the  United  States  might  come  next 
in  quality  and  quantity.  But  it  is  difficult  to  say 
positively  which  it  would  really  be.  They  have  all 
done  well,  and  given  of  their  finest  productions,  and 
all  who  go  will  not  be  disapointed  in  what  they  will 
see. 

It  is  thought  by  some  that  the  United  States  stands 
far  above  any  other  nation  as  regards  to  improve- 
ments and  the  arts  and  the  sciences.  But  let  me 
kindly  undeceive  you  in  this  respect.  We  had  ths 
idea  firmly  impressed  upon  our  mind,  and  oh!  how 
hard  it  was  for  us  to  give  up  this  position.  '  But  after 


PARIS    EXPOSITION.  207 

we  had  been  through  the  exhibits  of  each  country, 
and  the  capitals  of  England  and  France,  we  were 
compelled  to  admit  to  ourself  that  we  were  only  keep- 
ing abreast  with  the  advanced  nations  with  perhaps 
an  occasional  "spurt"  to  the  front  in  some  things, 
but  always  falling  back  into  line  after  a  short  lead. 
This  we  found  to  be  the  case  in  everything  pertain- 
ing to  the  arts  and  sciences.  And  we  think  no  one 
can  fail  to  come  to  this  conclusion  after  making  an 
investigation  and  comparison. 

We  have  now  given  you  the  principal  scenes  which 
we  saw  while  on  this  trip.  There  are  many  other 
things  which  might  be  said  but  deem  we  have  given 
all  that  is  advisable,  and  must  bid  you  all  a  kindly 
adieu,  hoping  that  you  have  enjoyed  reading  these 
pages  as  much  as  we  have  in  writing  them. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


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